Hi 4Wheelr.
I have not fully tested the 2 cells configuration and initial test is not that good. The 2 cells config is using the Zener 3.3V(D2) and R1 = 845 ohms (not 127 ohms). D1 is not populated.
I bought the 3.3V Zener from eBay.
I’ll continue to look into this configuration. Cheers!
Thanks for the follow up Tivo. I must have been looking at a older Word doc, because I don't see a 2S section anymore. It listed a 1N5819HW diode above the 3.3v zener.
I have some 5V regulators that fit an AMC7135 footprint. The are called some thing like 7805. I may play with using one of those to feed the MCU. Really would like to try your driver to a MT-G2.
Thank you for all this work you have done. I'm learning alot here. Hope to eventually dabble with playing with the code, but time is always so limited.
I did some testing on a C8 and getting ~5.2A to 5.9A(bypassed switch) using a 4.2V bench power supply. It gets the head really hot for a short time! And it’s very bright!
With this current, it will need a battery than can deliver the power you need.
I think we need to add a timeout period on Turbo. What do you think? Cheers!
02/18:
I don't like turbo timeouts much, but it's a nice feature to have as an option. I really want 5+ amps out of this on a good 26650 cell like a Powerizer or SONY. It's practical for a well heat sinked light like a HD 2010 or XinTD X3.
Ohh - I got the 6 PC boards in today, so I got everything accept the ribbon cable made up. Gotta ask at work to see if I can get help to build it up.
02/19: think I'll solder first board by hand using solder paste, I'll see... The boards look very good! The silk screening is better quality than my Nanjg drivers. One guy here at work that is doing some custom RC helicopter work will now be using OSH Park, and we might actually use them for proto runs at work.
Rufusbduck did some real interesting work using an L78L05 chip to allow series cells to a Nanjg here (Post 45). I haven't studied your circuit yet, but do you see any obvious issues with your mcu being powered directly by one of these?
EDIT: Not asking you to change your board. I asking because I want to mod it to run an MT-G2.
Hi 4Weelr!,
For two cells using a regulator, a 3.3V(L78L33AB) output regulator is recommended for this MCU.
5.0V is too high. Available from Digikey and eBay.
I have not tried it yet but it might work. I do not have an MT-G2 to check it out but maybe two XMLs in series will do for testing. I’ll see if I can find an L78L33AB. Cheers! 
Thanks again for the follow up. Good to know about the voltage requirement. I know you're probably a very busy guy. So I appreciate it. I'll look around to see if I have any on some of my scrap electronics. I may just order a few if they are inexpensive.
EDIT: Checked your links. Ordered some.
I thought the Atmel Tiny13A was rated for 6V while the Z8 is not rated for that high of voltage, therefore this board may not support an MT-G2 configuration??
The Z8 Encore Product Spec doc says:
2.7 V to 3.6 V operating voltage
Spec is here: zilog.com/appnotes
Tom E,
Yes you are correct. That is why for 2 cells you need to use a Voltage Regulator or the Zener/Resistor combi on the left side of the circuit. Which is still for testing. Cheers!
Ohhh, ok - it's on the other side of the processor on a Nanjg driver then... Thanx!
Tivo (or anyone). Got this all setup but this IDE can't connect to the USB Smart Cable, saying the Serial # does not match any device connected to the computer?? Any ideas?? I can't find any serial # anywhere, at least nothing identified as a S/N. Don't see you mention this anywhere.
I tried entering the # on the dongle into the TZF082A.txt file, because it had a S/N that was all zeroes. Any ideas?
One error message: [ERROR] Unable to connect to the target.
Pretty sure all is setup correctly: jumper in the box, ribbon cable modded and connected to a populated board - board looks good, etc... Followed the installation procedure -- USB Smart Cable driver appears installed correctly under Device Manager...
Ok - pretty sure the # that's on the Smart Cable box, and that I entered for S/N, is a Part #, not a S/N.
Help???
Hi Tom! Sent you a PM. Cheers!
Ok -it's working!!! Downloaded the board now successfully. Thanx tivo for all the help and patience. It's working fine at work, but I think the problem all along was the pin contact to the driver board. Last night I had trouble jamming them in, so they barely poked thru the back or not. Now, I have them sticking out significantly and seems to have a more reliable contact. If you take one pin and out it in a hole, the fit is loose, so only under pressure of being squeezed will there be a better contact. So, so far, all my soldering is ok.
Also, I was told here at work that the diode we are using on this board has a polarity, so must be installed in the proper direction -- I had no idea but got lucky I did it correct (50% chance). For those less experienced (me!), this is an important point.
Tivo - suggest you add the pics you posted in the threads to your doc set, showing the driver board with parts installed. I know if you are an EE or tech (know electronics pretty well), you could simply follow the schematic and silk screening on the board, but the silk screening is not so clear I'm noticing.
More fun to continue -- need to test the board out now... 
Cool. Congrats. You're ahead of me. I'm still waiting for some components to show up. I believe I have all the software installed. I could start modding the cable.
Ok - for sure the guys following tivo on this is: me (Tom E), nitro, and you (ImA4Wheelr)
I found the hand soldering to be not too bad - think nitro found it difficult. I used a syringe for applying solder paste on the pads, doing my best to get flux on the legs of the parts, then positioning them, touching the iron (little wet with solder) to the legs while holding the part in place with tweezers. It's not a lot of parts, but still takes time when being very careful.
My first board has 2 FET's and 4 380 7135's installed. Plan is to deploy it in a HD 2010, but will do some bench testing on various cells to test resistance, and test the UI/modes out.
Hi Tom!
Yes I forgot to mention that before programming hold the programming pins slightly at an angle to make a good contact on the holes. I will also update the doc to include the component orientation for diodes. I’m working on revising the installation software and some cleanups using the latest ZDS 5.2.0.
Cheers!
Hey Tom, if you look closely at D1 on the board you’ll see a line in the silkscreen which should match the faint line on the top of the diode. Easy to miss if you aren’t used to looking for it and it doesn’t help that the diode marking is so faint.
Yes - I learned the meaning today of how the stroke thickness or marks are used from guys more knowledgable than me at work. Not even quite sure what a Diode is... I'm not strong in the electronics, but some areas know well, mostly not though. These things are simple basics to people that know - but I know enough to be dangerous .
Kind of ironic that a reverse polarity protection diode if installed backwards will keep the mcu from operating(battery installed correctly)and only allow it to be ruined(battery installed backwards).
Updated documentation to Rev 2.0 to using the latest ZDS-Z8Encore! 5.2.0.
Some code clean ups
Added component placement info.
See OP bottom section for the links.
Cheers!