EDC flashlight with red light

That flashlight is so tiny !

Nope, most likely it will briefly get very bright, then get very dim, or quit lighting up entirely.
There’s not much magic smoke in these little things to leak out when they’re overpowered.
They just die.

Belated edit — just for the record, the info at RMM’s page now says, for the red XP-E2:

It still says 1.9A for the amber XP-E2.

Hmmm ….

I usually use nanjg 105c with 6 AMC chips, works nicely, heats up quickly ofcourse…

> AMC chips
are those 350 or 380 mA each?

350mA
I am not looking to push the limits here, just want nice balance between output and heat.
With 380mA chips you would probably be right there about 2.2A with 350 chips its more like 1.9-2A…

Ditto or for single mode use driver alone or stack one or two AMC

https://m.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001751/1127404-3v5v-4-amc7135-led-flashlight-driver-circuit-gener

That works also but you dont have battery LV protection or turbo timer ….

Use protected batteries!

I’d recommend the LED Lenser P7QC - gives you either white, red, green, and blue! You just turn to head to change the colour.

+1

Both lights mentioned above are red/orange not deep red as the original 1st post question/request.

Well, J_R_J hasn’t been around for four months and may have answered his question anyhow.

Anyone know what this one’s useful for?

CREE 660nm XP-E on 16mm Noctigon MCPCB
“This LED is specifically designed to be in the nominal 660nm wavelength range. …”

Hi all.
I ended up buying a red XP-E2 and a 1400mA S2+.
Not quite as good as i hoped for, the XP-E2 is too small for the S2+ reflector so it has a sort of funky looking light with a small black dot in the middle.
Very floody though so thats good.

Summertime now so no use for it, but I will probably try to build something else in a couple of months…

You could try some DC fix on the lens. I have an RGBW light that looks like the Eye of Sauron, with DC fix on the lens the pattern is a very nice smooth flood.

That’s odd, I have amber XP-E2s in S2+ lights that don’t have the “donut hole” problem with the stock reflectors.
(you might check the thickness of the board the emitter is on — could be anywhere from half a millimeter to one and a half mm thick, which affects the focus)

Do you have a spacer (round or “butterfly”) in between reflector and emitter? If not, try one or several to vary the depth at which the emitter sits slightly.
It’s not the width of the emitter that causes the “donut hole” — it’s having the light source be a little behind or in front of the focus point of the reflector.

They’re made specifically for different emitters. Mtnelectronics is out of stock right now but their description for the one you’d expect to be using says