Mine cyan KR4 arrived today. Works great out of the box, the aux leds are pretty sweet. The way reds pop under the 3000k sst-20s is awesome. Just waiting on sundown to really put it to use!
The K1 is a level beyond the D1s. While very compact for itās performance, itās still significantly bigger than the D1s. Those larger machined parts are also going to mean higher cost:
Thatās factory reset mode. Itās what happens when the button is held while connecting power. If the body tube isnāt connected, it can still receive a little bit of power through the switch, which causes the behavior you described.
So it sounds like the parts arenāt threaded together correctly.
Ish. Not really. It can still activate factory reset mode while the tailcap is loose.
Yes, this light is meant to have the battery changed at the tail, not the head.
In the default configuration, the smooth ramp floor is 3/150 instead of 1/150. It can be configured lower, but could potentially be unstable on some devices because itās outside the regulation chipās supported operating specs. So the default is the lowest in-spec level, and it has the ability to go lower if desired.
A while back, the default behavior changed when turning on the light.
Before: Press button, light turns on at moon. Release button, light goes to memorized mode. Or keep holding and the light gave a subtle blink to indicate it had been pressed long enough to be a āholdā.
After: Press button, nothing happens. Release button, light goes to memorized mode. Or keep holding and when it has been pressed long enough to be a āholdā, the light comes on at moon.
This can be changed by flipping a compile-time option and reflashing the firmware.
Additionally, if the KR4ās moon level is at 1/150 instead of the default 3/150, it may take the driver a moment to turn the LEDs on. Thatās because the lowest level is out of the regulatorās specified operating range. It technically shouldnāt work at all, but it does, so it was included as a non-default optional extra.
It may also help to set the floor to 2/150 instead of 1/150. This is the same level, in theory, but it runs the MCU twice as fastā¦ and that extra power draw is just enough to make the regulator run slightly higher.
In any case, the lowest officially supported level is about 2 lm. But thereās an unsupported optional ~0.2 lm mode available for those who want to try it.
Tints are listed on the page: 3000K/4000K/5000K/6500K with corresponding throw #'s, but no exact bin info, CRI, lumens, or amps. Best guess is the driver is tweaked for ~2 amps to the LED, ~1,800 lumens. 2 amps to a XHP35 HI is a high draw on a single cell - at least 8 amps, maybe closer to 10?