I’ll be getting one anyways because it will be one of those very fun wow-factor lights. But for a practical thrower I think W2/XHP35 is the way to go. Maybe I’ll wait for a proper review just to make sure it doesn’t lack the heat sinking ability like the FT03 with members reporting less than 1 minute turbo and unstable temperature regulation.
My FT03S can handle about 2 minutes on turbo at room temperature if you keep stepping it up manually. The problem is with the driver or firmware. I doubt the K1 will have this issue.
I am hoping it does not have the issue that FT03S had or I will have to get a different driver in it like I did with the NI40 SBT90.
Different light[NI40] with same LED as K1. The NI40,FET driver with a 26650 Aspire or Golisi[4300mAh] can get 10 to 12 good minutes of turbo. It is not until the last 2 or 3 minutes that you can notice decrease in output ONLY due to battery depletion.
EasyB put a FET driver in there and the light is enjoyable now instead of that stepping down every 90 seconds to 2 minutes. :person_facepalming:
So, the K1 with a 21700[40T/P42A] has around 4000mAh. It should get similar run time on turbo. The LED is a beast! Good news is it is simple to put a fresh battery in a single cell light. 
I have a FT03 with SBT-90, and I do not see where 4000 lumen and 400kcd is unpractical, I just love that beam and it is great for lighting up things brilliantly!
(the stepdown is annoyingly fast but is reversed with a half-click)
Yes, it defaults back to rainbow cycle after flashing and factory reset…then I switched it back to voltage indicator mode and at full charge the aux LEDs are yellow, which is inconsistent with the chart you posted. Also, I verified the battery is at full charge with three clicks from off.
One more factor of the W1’s thin beam is the lower amount of spill. I mean, the eyes adjust to the amount of light available (that’s why we see stars much better in a dark-sky area than in the city), so you might (or might not) see that faraway object as well or better with the W1 emitter than with the SBT90.2 simply because there is less light on the ground/objects close to you, which is causing the eye’s pupil to get smaller. It really depends, though, because we haven’t seen a beam pattern from the new reflector.
But I opted to order the SBT anyway. I like the ‘punch’ of high lumens and I don’t usually need it for more than a half minute at a time anyway. Besides, even with nearly a mile of throw from the W1, can my eyes really pick out enough detail at that distance to make it worthwhile? (Maybe if I can figure out how to hold binoculars steady with one hand and a K1 steady with the other….) 
I have K1 W1 so it is good to use when I stand, and when I’m going, the slightest hand shake causes that a narrow beam of light does not hit the target. That’s why I almost always take the FT03S with me
hope the next step is a “k2” or something with a bigger reflector and multiple cells? that would be awesome
Eh, I’d rather see a refresh of the D1 and D1S before bigger throwers from Hank. I’ve held off on the K1 so far (even though the SBT90 model is really calling to me) because it’s simply bigger than I’d ever want to take with me.
Very strange. I wonder if two aux wires are swapped or something.
If you do a 7H (7 clicks, but hold the last press) to cycle through the aux colors, what order do they go in? It should be: R, R+G, G, G+B, B, B+R, R+G+B, rainbow, voltage.
Is there by chance a beamshot comparison of all the K1 emitters? I realize its still early in the releases.
Im really digging the idea of the XHP35 HI or the SBT90, but the SBT may be overkill for my use.
The W1 will throw the farthest, but with a small hotspot, any small change of positioning will be very visible due to the small hotspot.
The XHP will have a very nice and even beam, with less throw but with a much more usuable wider beam (the current draw will be high, approx 9A input)
The SBT will be the monster, with a wide beam and with a high intensity, but due to the high current this LED consumes, it will get hot eventually, which means it will stepdown at a given time
Actually, all the orders to Canada and Australia are shipped via special airline service for now, instead of Singapore post,
so the orders to Canada and Australia can arrive much faster now.
Hank, you mean 4px?
Well, it looks like something is off with this particular D4V2. The aux LED color selection is: R, R+B, B, B+G, G, G+R, R+G+B, rainbow, voltage. It is currently flashed with the 3/18 version. Hopefully there is an old version that will restore the original Blue/Green/Red functionality, though I would love to have the new five level indicator.
My Ti D4V2 does have the correct order as posted. I might update that one and see if I get the correct five level indicator.
Thanks for your help TK!
Just updated my D4SV2 with the latest firmware and aux colours are as per TKs comment.
If you peer through the front, or take the optic out for a better look, check the colour wires are soldered to the correct pads (there are letters by them to indicate which colour wire it should be).
AH HA! That’s the issue, the green and blue wires are reversed. Dragging out the soldering iron…
Aaaaand it’s fixed. I never would have thought to check the wires. Thanks for the help!
Was anyone able to disassemble tailcap of KR4? Retaining ring sit there so strong that it make me think that it is glued.
The switch itself is glued, not sure about the retaining ring.
What’s the best 21700 for the K1?