Yeah I recently got a Convoy triple with the 2700k sst-20 and I wasn’t impressed with the tint either, I’ve given up on sst-20.
The 3000k 219b Azhu sells has a much more golden & neutral tint, very nice indeed. 2700k doesn’t seem to be available anywhere any more.
E21a in 2000k was an interesting experiment, I swear it’s almost fluorescent orange.
2700k is ok but not my thing for some reason.
I am also in love with the xpl hi 2700k 80 cri being sold on MTN, who would have thought… 3000k is nice too.
The KR4 w/ quad E21A is what you are looking for. It has a 5A regulated driver without direct drive making this super practical light that cannot set your pants on fire.
I received my first KR4 on Monday, and now I wonder if Hank would want to make a smaller EDC flashlight of the same style.
Smaller than FW3A, with Anduril, using a 14500 battery (perhaps also supporting AA batteries), and 4xE21A next to each other and allowing for tint mixing.
That would be an amazing EDC, and AA support would make it great for gifting to other people.
Beside the sample tested by maukka, did anybody tried the clear optic 10622 on the 4x e21a ? The concept of a throwy very high CRI with 1200 lumens is quite interesting. For outdoor use, tint shift shouldn’t be a problem (?)
Is anyone, with both the KR1 and original KR4, noticing that the KR1 tailcap switch is a touch more stable and less wobbly than the early KR4 iterations? report!
Higher currents is key to the SST20. Below basically direct drive i cant stand them these days, the green is too dominant.
I have 1, yes only 1 SST20 4000k that came in a $30 Sofirn light that is OK at lower currents and beautiful at higher.
If you want something throwy with decent colour and you are running high amps, there is nothing like it though. Therefore i think its better suited to singles, not triples and quads (or 12 as in my ROT66g2)
There is something more than the green in the tint as well, i cant explain it, a minus green filter helps, but reduces output and still isnt the best around. Sure the colour rendition is good and it does very well with reds over say a Nichia 219c, but personally im done with it when there are so many amazing Nichia options available. I even prefer the Nichia 319AT R8000 for tint over any of the SST20s ive seen, only if you are looking for brightness and lower CRI, reds etc but still better than your typical Cree.
Some people love it, so be it, its cheap and readily available which is fantastic. Apparently some people like the XPL-HD 6500K, so whatever :person_facepalming:
Yeah i had alot of beam shift in my 3500k with the 10622.
I somewhat sanded the top of it to be somewhere inbetween the two options, there is a little shift oon the edges but its managable indoors. Its certainly got more throw which is nice, but its still a multi TIR which arent great for outdoors where you want any sort of distance.
Ive been thinking about building a quadrix into a Convoy C8 with some DC-Fix, should still get a better hotspot then the smaller lights ive been building. Not sure if i will get around to it though as ive overloaded with options right now.
The good news is because the Emisar’s are able to be flashed you could turn (some?) into a worse quality driver, a la Sofirn.
If you customize firmware, disable all the 7135 channels, and reflash it for FET only (in a D4v2 for example) you would be running “Direct Drive” in all modes. Tint problem will be loads better at the expense of crippling the efficiency. In fact, i’m surprised no one has done it yet.
It depends on the alloy. It is common for there to be a couple percent, however, to improve machinability and reduce friction.
There is a lot of study about exposure due to brass hose and some other plumbing fittings, because of course, we drink the water that goes through those. External brass exposure gets less study, but I did find a study looking at blood lead levels of locksmiths:
In short, they had 50% higher blood lead levels than control groups. Keep in mind, cutting keys is a grinding process, so it makes lots of small particles, and they could be doing this kind of work routinely. They’re probably one of the worst cases to look at.
Even so, the 3 µg/dL noted in that link is below the EPA action level of 5 µg/dL, and the action the EPA recommends at that level is followup tests to see if your level stays high, and a survey to identify possible sources of exposure for awareness. I think remediation activities are normally recommended at 15 µg/dL.
So in summary, yes, lead is commonly present in brass, and it may be a concern, but probably a minor one. The concern is highest for children, because it is believed to affect a developing brain more than that of a grown adult.
Good point about the DD though. I had assumed that particular light simply had a rare BBL hugging SST20 in it, but it could be the shit driver. I have no idea what the driver is actually.
Its the Sofirn SC31B. I had planned to steal the LED and put it in something better, but maybe its nothing special…
Not sure actually if DD using PWM makes them any better than CC, but its worth a try.
I had once in a FW1A, at top of ramp it was green. Double click into DD and it brightness hardly changed, but the tint changed almost magically into something nice. Heat went through the roof though of course. No idea how many amps it was pulling, but the brightness barely changed.
