Pretty much that, the smaller cells can’t deliver the current their larger siblings can. The very best (Golisi Gold) 26650 can do some pretty staggering output numbers in the right light, but there are only a couple of options on the half cell (26350) and those aren’t as high drain. Be that due to their smaller form factor or just a different chemistry. They do ok, for the smaller size, still capable of 3000 lumens or more, and of course at 2000mAh they just won’t last as long in theory… in use the lower output and lesser heat allows the smaller cell to actually have a fairly respectable run time… all depends on how much you dog it in Turbo vs regulated use.
Edit: For those relatively new to all this, the capability of discharge vs capacity of a Li-ion cell is rated in C, meaning C is the proportion of output to capacity in percentage. So the smaller cell with a lower capacity, like 2000mAh, might do 5C (10,000mA or 10A) while a really good 26650 with 5000mAh capacity might do 10C (50,000mA or 50A) Obviously, hitting the small cells with high drain will really result in decreased run time and a lesser life expectancy of the cell in number of charge cycles it can take. This is the kind of thing you have to keep in mind when purchasing the light and the cells to go with it, what is your intended use and which cells will run your selection accordingly. It all gets rather complicated of course, with different driver types ie: linear or direct drive versus regulated or constant current. There’s homework!
I’m glad that was helpful. The performance differences between the D4 and the D4S are significant, but don’t really count as “features” so they are easy to overlook.
The smaller tube would probably have some impact, but not as much as you would expect. Someone posted some neat thermal imaging of a D4 running on turbo and the majority of the heat stayed up near the head. I expect the same is true of the D4S.
I got board after waiting 3 minutes for the D4s to step down, it takes a while to heat up ,but I do set the limit to 70*C , which actually work on ramping iOS ,its one of the best torches out there imo.
The stock LEDiL ANGIEC12285 has the tightest beam pattern of 12 degrees. They don’t make anything tighter. I’m not aware of any other brand which does either.
On another note, I have a 20 degree optic which I find too floody for most tasks. The stock one is the best imo.
Hi all, I want to flash Anduril to my black D4S. I’ve been asking for help on the D4V2 and the official D4V2 flashkit instructions thread which was probably the wrong place I think this is the correct place to ask for help. I’ve just ordered the USBASP adapter along with the Dupont cable so hopefully they should arive in the next few days.
I’m happy with the Avdude commands and grabbing the latest TK Anduril hex file for the D4S its just connecting the USBASP to the head which scares me.
I’ve found the instructions in Zeroflows post #635 it looks fairly straight forward but I’l ask for help once the stuff arives as I dont want to mess up my D4S. I’ve got 2 rows of 3 pins like in Zeroflows instructions rather than all 6 going across the head.
Slight nitpick completely off the subject. The "waterproof" rating of the D4S is IP67. 6 is the highest rating for dust and particulate matter, but a waterproof rating of 7 is a step below the usual 8 that we have come to expect with top rank lights.
IPX-7 Protected against water immersion - Immersion for 30 minutes at a depth of 1 meter. IPX-8 Protected against water immersion - Immersion for 30 minutes at a depth of 2 meters or greater. Theoretically there’s no predefined time but it’s often longer than the testing time for the IPX7 rating.
Clearly, both 7 and 8 are fully waterproof, but if your light is a true EDC and goes with you everywhere no matter how demanding the environment, it's nice to have the additional security provided by IPX8. OTOH, the fact that the dust/dirt ingress rating is given, which most lights never include, and that it is a top-rated 6, is icing on an already tasty cake.
