[Ended]Groupbuy : Utorch UT01 (XP-L , AA & 14500 battery , e-switch etc)

Thank you giorgoskok for putting these buys together, bought the other 02’s also
I received the UT01’s yesterday in NW & CW, ran them up with Windyfire 14500’s button top first, both lights worked great but a bit tight and had to crank harder than the norm on the tail to make the connection, so used same brand flat top and just perfect, threads nicely lubed, smooth and just a nice clean light, just like the 02’s I got,
On my driver it is clearly printed Manker E11, didn’t really expect Manker to be so blatant about rebranding their own light, I wonder why they did that?
Really is a great little light, nice pocket friendly for sure and with the 14500 the throw is quit impressive, UI also great, now need to find out how to do the adjustments, will look backwards threw the posts, forgot where it was posted.
Thanks Again :laughing:

YES! Thank you giorgoskok!

Just got my NW yesterday and seems to be working great. FWIW, I have an AW 14500 IMR (red) button top that I bought a while back (from some vape shop online in US) and it fits perfectly fine. In fact, it is just a hair shorter than my AA Eneloops and Fujitsus. :+1: :+1: Protected Orbtronic 14500 would not work……wouldn’t let the tail cap screw all the way on.

AND….overall happier with this light than my Nitecore EA11 I paid twice the price for……the UT01 doesn’t throw quite as far, but that’s not what i’m looking for in a AA light. The UT01 is stronger on a regular AA than the Nitecore, it’s floodier (what I prefer on AA small light), NW option AND it’s physically smaller! WIN WIN WIN WIN!

For anyone having issues with longer batteries search for “paperclip mod” on this thread and the review thread , or ask me to give a link later .

Thanks again everyone for your support .

Is this a batch of “extras” that came off the assembly line after regular work hours?
You guys are making it very tempting. Wish I hadn’t missed the group buy.

When one combines the above with the back and forth (on the first page of this thread) regarding the morality of ‘anybody’ purchasing this light?

It would be nice to have at least one concerned or affected party here come forward so that we can all understand this process a bit better.

Cloning LEDs has developed in to cloning ‘drivers’(?)…or why would anybody go to the trouble of even attempting to pass such a thing off as somebody else’s product in the first place? Has anybody checked to see of the LED is indeed ‘legit’ as well…or do we always know simply because nothing else on the market (now) can (yet) produce these numbers/efficiencies?

Are these particular drivers ‘hot’ at the moment due to other Manker lights (the XPL-HI AA cell version comes to mind) dominating(?) the high output AA budget market?

…by the way…I have no idea how anything connected with the offshore market for budget lights ‘works’ whatsoever…

I sure glad I waited. I wanted a Manker E11… Then the klarus mi7 came out(no neutral option) I thought they were nice, but overpriced. I jumped on this group buy, and it’s a winner! Protected Keepower won’t fit, luckily I have a brand new effast 14500 sitting around. Thx to ggk for group buy!

I bought the CW and NW both drivers say Manker E11 and have one more coming, and I am certain that these are the E11 and rebranded,
Hank they are selling these right now at GB for $19 flash sale,
These are the E11’s, no doubt,
These are not some clone, if they were they wouldn’t go so far as to print Manker E11 on the driver, it would just be a look a like with a junk driver, this is not a junk driver, this light does have the undocumented modes, those wouldn’t be cloned also…
I used to deal in E Cigs, and dealt with cloning all the time, and I am certain this is nothing more than a rebrand,
Manker is just trying to keep their heads down for awhile and still sell products by rebranding, I expect them to change the company name, soon.

Edit: the only problem I’m having with this light is double tap to change to blinkies, and that’s my problem with finger dexterity, injured, but really a solid light, same as the UT02 undocumented modes and all, amazing really.

T18. You said it well. Atleast that’s what I believe

$20.99 on the flash sale right now.

Pointer please? where are those, er, documented?

Here you go Hank, I have sat here with this UT01 and tried the following instructions below and it does work but I just don’t have it down yet,
As I mentioned the first part of the following instructions do start to work and I watched the modes go through 3 different output levels,
I just didn’t know yet what I was supposed to do at that point so backed out, but now I have the instructions,
This is CLEAR and convincing evidence these are Manker drivers, this code doesn’t get cloned, also because this info originally was from a hidden modes on the U21 Manker, so somebody here remembered and gave it a try while trying to figure out if the UT02 was a U21 was just rebranded just like these UT01’s, might have been George himself that knew of the undocumented, not sure, Hank, so here you go and as I was told, Have fun, Not to easy but is doable… I saw them cycle on this light, just got lost ha ha
Posted: from UT02 thread:
As it turned out, the flashlight, as in U21 are undocumented modes.
To access them: from off hold down the button for 10 seconds. After 10 sec. flashlight blink 2 times for maximum brightness
and turns off. Now we are in a hidden level. In this state, the group Strobe / Breath Flash / SOS and added / Beacon / Constantly glowing blue button / Turbo + (no step down).
What’s the solid blue light mode I do not understand. With a discharged battery changes color from blue to purple. (Battery indicator?)
Turbo + no step-down: working at room temperature until automatically shuts down due to overheating (when the head temperature reaches 50 °C).
Also, if the mode is enabled Beacon and we will do two-click a flashlight off. After one click enters in which you can adjust the brightness in Low mode.
It has 21 degrees of brightness and adjusts from minimum to maximum (each click changes the brightness). To store the desired light intensity,
a flashlight must be switched off.
Visually Low mode, you can do an equal brightness mode Med1, ie from 15 to 100 lumens.
To exit the hidden group acts the same way: when the light is turned off hold down the button for 10 seconds.
After 10 sec. blink 1 time for maximum brightness and turn off which means dropping the hidden level.
Have fun!

Edit: I think using BLF in code at GB brings it down some, not sure,

I tried code BLF and the flash sale price went away (price went up).

What does this mean?

Tube too tight for the wrapping on a protected cell?

How does the driver handle a drained battery, does it blink or otherwise protect the cell?

Protected 14500 Keepower is too long. Fits in, but won’t allow the tail cap to fully close.

…the LVP shifts it down (only) to a lower mode from what I’ve been able to gather (thus the search for a protected cell which doesn’t require the tube end or spring to be modded for me at least).
Do all Mankers in this category do this vs full integrated LVP protection (as has been speculated in regards to a similar OEM Manker driver being used here)…
…I do not know.

Well finally figure out how to adjust the output on these following the hidden undocumented instructions I posted above, but it was a bit odd I’d say at first, just couldn’t see what it is I was supposed to be seeing or doing and actually this is supposed to be for the UT02 or Manker U21 but thought it might work on this driver and it did and being I am always late to the party you all probably already know all this so I’ll tell you anyhow,
So while trying to figure this out I accidentally shined the light on a piece of white paper while in Low mode and I saw it, very subtle, ramps up threw 3 low modes so watched this go through 3 ever so slight increases in output while in Low, don’t blink or you might not notice it, (Edit) don’t shine this on white paper, shine it in the palm of your hand, makes it real easy to see that way) … and it will keep going through these ramp modes until you click the switch, so in low when it got to the highest output I clicked the switch once and it goes to next mode and will ramp again threw the 3 outputs, so I watched it a couple times again going threw those three output options I choose the highest output again by clicking the switch and it keeps going until you get to the strobe, there the instructions say a long click for turning it off, but it didn’t quit go to a off like I would have thought,
I thought I had backed out of this ramping hidden modes but noticed now while going through modes that it kept going threw all the light modes and then straight into blinkies modes also, which shouldn’t happen on this light, so I watched and shinned it at that white paper, (don’t do that white paper) so I could see if it was ramping up and down and it was, so went threw again set everything at their highest modes, then clicked off and then did again like in the beginning to open this hidden modes adjustments and a double click like going into blinkies and it went back to putting the blinkies back in their own separate double click box, pretty cool and a bit brighter now also, so you could have a very low low, and a higher high, very cool feature in this little light.
Light gets hotter also or so it seems in high, and don’t accidentally shine the strobe on that white piece of paper or you will be spot eyed for awhile, trust me… ha ha, still seeing spots, boy that is bright.

The documentation states that if using AA NiMH, on default low (2 lumens), anticipated run time is 171 hrs. My question is, if you change the low output to 0.5 lumens, using the hidden pro mode, would it be logical to estimate that run time would then grow in proportions to 4x171, or 684 hrs?

Thanks in advance.

Just an FYI, Everbuying has them for 18.79 right now.

Mine came today and I have exactly the same problem. The button is temperamental and responds when it wants to. The light will get stuck in modes, it’ll jump into the second mode and get stuck there. It sometimes won’t turn on when off, and it sometimes won’t turn off when it’s on. It literally does not do what I want it to do. It’s unusable. Very disappointing.

This being said, from the scores of lights I’ve bought from China over the last 12 months, this is the only torch to arrive as junked. Pretty good ratio imo.

Can someone post a video of the switch issue ?

Gimme 2 ticks, dude.