Mine was delivered. Will see it after my MRI -- knee, torn MCL most likely...
Mine showed up. I knew it was small, but still surprised how small it really is. Next to a silver dollar
Same.
That doesn’t sound good, I had a grade 2 MCL last year kept me from working 8 weeks. I hope you recover quickly.
Alright, off to a good start, lol… Mine came with a pre-broken switch. Actually, there is no switch on it at all. Was wondering why the button was mushy and no click. Looks like someone at the factory pressed the driver in and didn’t line it up to the button. There was no broken off switch part inside. Now for the long drawn out hassle with BG.
Ai, not a good start of this light :person_facepalming:
I was thinking the same thing! 
Oh boy. Hope that was the exception and not the rule…
Tom, hang in there man, hope it goes well and you get that knocked out asap. 
Robert? Is that a mangled mess of the switch or just what’s going on there where the switch is supposed to be? Looks like a disaster….
Edit: For the record, that dollar is 38.5mm in diameter.
Mine appears to be fine - working with a LK 26650. Minimum packaging - thin small cardboard box, classic thin bag with no padding, 1 extra o-ring which seems too small to fit on anything in this light, but maybe it could stretched, no manual, no paperwork. Also no springs on either end for the battery.
UI is a bit clunky - can't figure out how supposed memory works. 1 click ON to mid mode, once ON, press&hold to cycle thru 3 modes: lo-mid-hi. Only way I see to get to turbo is from OFF, press&hold. Ohhh - also 1 click OFF. Always seems to want to come on in mid mode for the 1 click.
Also, dbl-click when OFF goes to hi. dbl-click when ON goes to turbo.
For the MRI on the knee, it's an old sports injury. I probably re-tore the MCL bout 2 1/2 years ago playing softball in the 1st week of the spring and never took care of it - I quit my 20 year career play'n on 3-4 teams/week. Been taking walks late summer to fall, then it started really bothering me. All I want to do is get some simple exercise at this point. Most of the cartilage is gone - I know it's messed up.
Maybe a quick double click to turbo….
Seems like they havent learn about the switch issues.
Same thing happen with their older models. Lucky i stay out of the way 
Yes, updated above. Also the 1 click from OFF is delayed - probably to wait on possible dbl-click. I don't like doin a UI like that because of this reason. The delay just doesn't feel right - it's slow and stupid or something... These things should work in sub msec's - I hate delays! 
Which is why I ordered a new computer today: 6 core i7, overclocked, liquid cooling, Samsung Pro 512GB solid state drive, crazy $400 graphics card, etc...
Should mention though I really like this light - super small, weighs like nothing without a battery - all the weight is in the cell. It makes my single 26650 40 mm head lights look like oversized old tech, generations gone by. Very stable tailstander, for sure.
While you’re on a buying spree you could order up a new Canon 1D X and send it my way… It’s Really Fast as well, dual Digic 5+ processors with a third Digic 4 for the metering alone. 14 frames per second at 20MP. 
It’s pretty cheap, really…
Yes Dale, that mangled mess is where the switch is supposed to be. The driver is held in place by the tube body. It looks like they screwed the tube down tight without aligning the switch into the slot under the button. All I did was unscrew the tail cap, slid a non-protected 26650 in there. No click on the button. Removed the tube from the head, and the driver was loose with the switch sheered off. There were no pieces floating around inside, which makes me think it was done on the assembly floor in the factory.
So what mods are you going to do to turn that into a flashlight? :)
Well I can write off the gaming/development computer to my biz. Gotta figure out how to do that with a camera...
Ohh - had to order it with a case having nice red LED's in it all over the place. My old one from 2010 had blue LED's - time for a change.
Oops edit again: think I figured out the UI. read about the DQG tiny 18650 here: http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=2215, and it's similar.
From OFF, 1 click to mid
From OFF, 2 clicks to hi
From OFF, 3 clicks to lo
From OFF, hold down for turbo
From ON, 1 click OFF
While ON, 2 clicks to turbo, then 1 click restores last mode (lo-mid-hi), another 1 click turns it OFF
Hopefully your biz new computer is about 1/3 the cost of my biz new camera. Man are they ever proud of these things! Makes me want to stay with the old tech, to be honest, but I’m using a Pro body from 2004, the newest offerings are Epic, gotta step up or step out.
+1 for me, please… and lenses with red rings.
Little more info:
It does do the rated 2,500 lumens, least in my PVC light box measurements. I got slightly better results on a BASEN cell than the LK. Could be because the BASEN makes better contact on the batt+ end - there's the black cushion stuff around the batt+ contact, making it more difficult for flat top cells.
The LED's are 7S, not 7P - kind of bad news for some easy modding. The MCPCB is aluminum.
Mine is the CW version...
BASEN cell @4.18V: 6.4A at the tail on a clamp meter, turbo lumens: 2,652 @start, 2,523 @30 secs
On a LK @4.20V (could not measure tail amps because of batt+ contact):
- turbo lumens: 2,652 @start, 2,465 @30 secs
- lo: 5 lumens
- mid: 330 lumens
- hi: 972 lumens
Here's the LED's - notice the traces are + to -, etc. for in series:
The driver - must be a decent boost:
The switch. So far it's holding up but I'm not a fan of this style right angle PC mounted:
Other parts:
Inside of tailcap:
How in the world is a 4.2V cell powering up 7 series emitters? That’s some serious boost going on!
If it’s pulling 6.4A with a fresh cell, wonder what the current goes up to when the cell is low? Wow, surprises me big time.
Does it get hot fast?