I ordered two more de-domeds from KD - if you’re happy to wait a few weeks, I’ll report back when I do a proper reflow JasonWW’s point about the emitter not being able to transfer heat properly does make sense, so I’ll do it on the hot plate this time.
I don’t think a dedomed led is more susceptible to high current than a domed one. It doesn’t make sense that it would be.
Probably the easiest way to limit current is use a somewhat weak battery. The Keeppower 5200mah is a good choice. You can compare cells on HKJ’s comparator at 10A.
Here is the 5200 compared to the 6000.
The important part is the far left. You want that initial part on the left to be lower, which it is in this case.
If you can solder, another thing you can do is replace the two low resistance springs in the tail cap with a single steel spring. This will add some resistance to keep the amperage lower.
I suspect the middle pad, the thermal pad, might not have had enough solder in it. I’ve heard of some mcpcb having a slightly deeper section for the thermal pad which might require a tiny bit more solder.
Thanks; I’ll take care to have a look at that. I figured I’d get two in case I screw another one up. As I said before though, I’ll do this one in the pan and not via soldering iron (I know, I know).
Long term I need to get one of those little heating plates if I want to do an MF01 emitter swap, but that’s for another day.
If this option is selected, the LED dome will be sliced until it is very thin, then polished if needed. A sliced dome provides a tighter, more intense hotspot for increased throw. The LED’s tint will usually shift slightly warmer than it was with the full dome in place. It is not recommended to run the sliced LEDs at above 8A, even with good heatsinking. Selecting this option will add 3-5 business days processing time to your entire order.
. When sliced very thin and run at high current, the thin silicone might/can/will burn.
Guy’s at work went in and bought a bunch of them. This is the second batch.( I hope the last?) The first batch of 8 some were not working well, So I found some minor problems, piss poor re-flows, off centered LED’s, lack of adequate re-flow solder, a lead wire was barely soldered on and broke off or melted itself off the driver contact, mcpcb shelf/shelves are not flat, ect. So I fixed a few and have been modding a few for the hardcore guy’s. So I’ll go thru these and see whats up with them. I’m working on modding one of mine, so these will have to wait.
First impressions from my FT03. NW color looks good for my eyes, significantly brighter that GT mini, bad threads on the tailcap - “dancing” until fully closed. Tried the charging - 4.13V. After several minutes on turbo isn’t hot
I turned on the turbo by double clicking. Room temperature is 30 degrees. Running continuously for 7 minutes, the lamp was quite hot but I found the brightness not decreased. Has anyone encountered a similar situation. I thought that with room temperature, maybe the lamp had reached 55 degrees