That’s true about the VTC6, after 50 cycles the VTC6 will hold less charge than the 30Q, this is why the 30Q is better IMO
Looks sort of similar but if I hold my MF01S to my monitor, it looks like a very faded grey blue compared to the blue in those pics. Almost like they really cheaped out in the anodizing process. I think those who got a consistent dark deep blue got real lucky. Otherwise it's a beautiful looking light and looks way better than the images. Very solid chunky feel. Not sure about turbo though, it heats up instantly. Maybe that is the way it is supposed to be to dissipate the heat from the leds and batteries, but it doesn't feel right. If anyone wants my light for $20 less than I paid for it and free shipping to Canada/US pm me.
It heats up quickly because the thermal path is well designed. TA got them to use a super thick shelf so the heat from the emitters can dissipate out rapidly. This protects the emitters and reduces output loss due to heat in the emitters. If you don’t want it to heat up so fast, just run it on default max ramp but not turbo. When used outdoors with some wind, the heat deep fins will keep the thing running real well unless of course if you use turbo, which would require a GT4 size mass to sustain.
Besides the color, why else do you not like this light? I really like mine.
This specs is stated in Mateminco Store in Aliexpress too since they listed it.
They also stated 4000k(CRI95), 5000k/6500k(CRI70).
But they never mention anything about XP-G3.
@SKV89 I thought that might be the case, thanks. So the quick buildup of heat means it is working really well then.
Well, this is my first 4000K light and it is too yellow for me. Not sure I buy the high cri thing. It's kind of weird as I shinned it on my plum tree just now and even though the purple color of the plums looked accurate, the whole area was submerged in a sea of yellow tint. It's hard to explain but I much rather prefer a nice 5000K tint like the Q8 or even 5700K for my eyes. If I can sell this one, I'll order another one in 5700K as the hot spot is not only massive, but it throws so far and stays so bright that it's almost incredible for such a compact light. I know some don't like the circus looking auxiliary lights but I love them, they look great. I also love the whole design of the light, if looks and feels really nice.
Even on turbo you found it too yellow outdoors? I’m concerned Mateminco might have ran out of the good bins and started using the FB4 bins which is very yellowish. On mine, it looks like afternoon sunlight outdoors at night but of course my eyes are already adapted to my warm white house lights.
I was one of the first ones to protest against the Christmas tree aux lights but surprisingly I’m actually quite fond of them now. I still prefer red or purple for the button light instead of green though.
Update, I had some very inconsistent readings. Sometimes after I remove the P26A or P28A batteries and put it back in, turbo output drops to 8,000 lumens. Then taking the batteries out and putting it back in might bring it back to 10k lumens. It’s happened quite a few times and I finally understand the problem is that the flat tops sometimes fail to make good contact. I also experience the same problem with the D18. Sometimes the contact is so poor, it doesn’t even turn on. Therefore I no longer recommend the P26A for the MF01S unless there exist a button top version or you know how to add a solder blob to it.
I’m one who can’t quite get into the warmer lights. I don’t care much for the greenish tint on the 5k+ lights but I usually go straight to turbo. The 6500k is usually too blue for me but in this light I seem to prefer it over my 5000k. I’ll have to play with them a little more, and maybe I’ll take some side by side beam shots. I know others have mentioned certain iso and f/stop numbers, is there a standard or preferred set of numbers?
@SKV89 Yes, mine is very yellowish on turbo, it stays yellow all the way from low to turbo. Looks like I didn't get the 4K bin that everyone was so excited about unfortunately. I like the aux lights because they ad some fun to the whole thing.
You should be able to adjust the brightness of all 4 color aux lights with the trimmers. Make it single color if you want.
I found some pictures of the P26A. The flat tops don’t look recessed. Do you think the wrapper is not flexing enough around center post? You might try taking a razor and trim the wrapper back just a little bit or maybe weaken it above that gap.
Also, try cleaning the contacts and the springs and see if that helps. Sometimes they pick up oil or dirt or just oxidize a little.
Yea I cleaned it several times with alcohol and even disassembled the tube to wash it down to rub off any possible grease or oil preventing good contact but still the same thing. I think this light is not really meant for flat tops so performance is not guaranteed using flat tops. That’s the reason why the P26A performed so much better than VTC6 in the E07 but only slightly better in the MF01S. When the contact is not so great, it performs even worst than the VTC6. It’s hit or miss each time you turn the tube. I’ll probably add solder blobs to the P26A and P28A when I begin my next soldering project.
Have you looked real close at where the edge of the white discs line up around the edge of the flat top? Do they line up properly? The P26A looks like the typical battery shell size and design.
Would trimming off say 1mm of the wrapper around the positive flat top post fix the problem?
Some people have simply removed the white discs - on the older lights. It’s fine as long as you pay attention to the battery direction.
The white disc seems about the same size as the flat top perimeter so if it the battery lands on them even slightly tilted, the white disc might be preventing contact of the positive terminal. Don’t think cutting the black wrapper will do anything since it is flexible. I think solder blob is the best fix.
A thought just occurred to me, would the shorty tube with battery carrier work better? I have one from my MF04S, the long tube also comes with a battery carrier.
I removed the plastic discs on my first MF01 right away after receiving it but realized that they were not interfering with flat top 30Q or VTC5 to make good contact with my 2nd MF01 so I kept them.
The point is that I always check that the top of the battery is well centered in the plastic disc (by rotating the battery) after inserting batteries one by one but the MF01S is different and it seems more difficult to verify this when screwing down the MF01S bottom cap. Batteries might move a bit during the operation.
Generally I prefer to solder blob the positive brass buttons of the battery carrier (BLF GT) as it is reversible with copper braid and there is no risk to alter the battery performance with excessive heat or time when solder blobbing batteries (I don’t have low melting point solder).
This light is meant to be used with button top batteries. Although many report that flat or raised top cells do work, the connection may be random and in some instances you may have only one pair properly wired while the other pair just sits there not discharging. At some point it may make contact and balance with the already partly discharged pair, involving high currents in an uncontrolled way. Not very good…
My take is if you really don’t have BT cells for this light, solder blob them and make sure they do make contact.
I like this idea! I might try it out.
I’m not the first one to use this. For the BLF GT carrier I made small rings with thin single core copper wire instead of just solder blobs.
Yes I think that is exactly what is happening. Sometimes only one pair makes the connection. Without a lumen measuring device, I doubt I would even realize it. Therefore everyone should use this light with button top cells. VTC6 has button tops. Not sure about P26A