I just got in my s2+ triple screw type heatsink. Its looks just as amazing in person and in the pictures.
I’m just waiting for my hi cri xp-g3’s from vestures group buy. After reading djozze’s review of those emitters I’m getting exiting.
I have this awesome heatsink, a green convoy s2+, and a dr jones h17f all here and waiting.
I may swap out the driver later for one of the newer version fet+1 at mountain in the future. This screwdriver design will make swaping components alot easier.
I imagine this threaded pill design will transfer heat to the flashlight body alot better than the spacer style heatsink from mountain I’ve been using.
Thanks Hoop. You have a happy customer. I’ll definitely be following your future projects.
Another very impressed customer here. I purchased a single screw type and a triple screw type. Both are exceptional. I have the single set up with a moonlight special driver, and the triple with H17f. Both use 4000k Nichia 219b 92cri LEDs from Illumn. The S2+ centering ring is also perfect.
If Hoop would make heatsinks for any other light I own that uses a pill (Brinyte B158, XinTD C8, Jax Z1,) I would immediately get some.
Received my S2+ Triple pills Screw and Threaded Retainer styles and both work perfectly and the machining and finish are expertly done! Great Job Hoop! :+1:
Thought about a replacement pill for the “Cometa”?
Main problems with the stock one are — the cutout for the driver is both too deep (so the spring can bend over and ground out) and too wide (so it’s possible for the driver to shift sideways under the retaining ring, questionable whether the positive contact on the driver is close enough to touch the retaining ring if that happens. Also, brass.
I’ll take one triple emitter S2+ heatsink. The solder type.
I will also take one of each:
200” diameter, .080” tall. (5mm x 2mm)
.200” diameter, .160” tall. (5mm x 4mm)
.200” diameter, .2” tall. (5mm x 5mm)
Edit: actually I was wondering if the screw type attaching method has any kind of current limit to it. Have you tested it at all? If the difference from that and the solder or retaining ring ones isn’t noticable, I may consider that instead
17mm boards have a ground ring all around them on the back side, which sits on a copper ledge, so the current isn’t restricted by the screws. I don’t know if the solder connection offers lower resistance than physical contact. Probably it does, but I imagine we are talking about some pretty negligible resistance in either case.
I am currently out of the solder triples. Need to do another run of heatsinks at this point. I think I should open a webstore to improve efficiency and start offering more products.
Hey, this is a silly little thing, but a nuisance to make by hand.
Are you set up to easily notch the inside of driver retaining rings so they fit down over chips?
Here’s my handmade:
Just something I wish RMM had in stock; you have to line up the driver and ring and turn them both together “backwards” enough times to reverse twist the wires “backwards” — so you can then tighten it down, again turning the ring and driver together, and end up with the wires not twisted too much so you still have the slack to deal with the other end.
Nice. I think I should reduce the diameter of the LED pocket by a few thousandths, though this may require stars to be sanded in some cases depending on how the stars were cut. In my tests, the screws always grabbed at least enough to keep the star in place during the install, which is all that is required of them.
I’m pretty much sold out of heatsinks for now. It’ll be a little while till I run some more as I have other things I have to work on.
