The trouble with glow stuff, including the powder I bought some time ago is they all claim to be the worlds brightest and crazy glow times of 12 or 14 hrs (never seen any last over an hour or so at any sort of usable brightness), much like flashlights lol!
I keep reading about this 3m 7000 hppl, but finding any is near impossible, even 3m in the UK couldn’t help!
Surely we have someone on here who is in the US Navy who could ‘borrow’ some from the stores for a few beers to the storekeeper lol!
Yes I totaly agree, black ano would be alot nicer, another reason not to do the knurling, it stands out a bit more colored. The body/bezel polished seems to be the best looking to me…now…
. I’m not liking this option either… it’s even worse when it’s all aluminum… oh well took one for the team!
. Diamond encrusted dog collar for the FW3A!
. 
. The best option for me…
. 
I have an SC62w (4400k) and also a D4 with SST-20 4000k. The SST-20 is warmer, but with much better color rendition (high CRI) and less tint shift across the beam. I don’t yet have an XP-L HI (on the way!), but from the specs, I’d say the SC62w falls right in between the XP-L HI 3D and the SST-20 4000k for color temp. It comes down to preference. I generally prefer high CRI for the richer colors and suspect I’ll prefer the SST-20 in the FW3A. If you want closer to a daylight temp, though, and are ok with lower CRI, then you may prefer the XP-L HI 3D.
Of course, the correct answer is buy both!
BTW, what happened to your SC62w?
Flexibility would be a plus here. This is why I originally recommend Goop. Doesn’t dry fast but does stay flexible. Makes great strain relief for tool cords where they enter the tool like drills and such. Make sure to buy the UV stable type for outdoor applications. (obviously not pertinent here).
Did you check to see if there was a thin (almost invisible) piece of plastic on the negative end of the battery? I know that the 30Q’s that came with the BLF A6 (from Banggood) had a film like that on them for shipping. Battery seemed dead, until I took a really close look. That’s probably not the case with yours, since you were able to charge, but it’s worth a look.
You should have checked the voltage before trying to charge. Samsung’s specs for the 30Q state the following about low voltage:
Below 1.0v, do not charge. Get rid of any cell that dropped below that.
Between 1.0v - 2.5v, charge very slowly at first. Sounds like your charger does that, which is good.
Above 2.5v, charge normally.
Personally, I’d be cautious of any cell that dropped below 2.0v. While Samsung says 1.0v is okay, this is probably for a very slow self-discharge in a BMS.
If you keep that cell, run some tests on it first. Charge it up to 4.2v, and let it sit for a week. It’s normal to drop a bit in voltage during that time (especially the first day), but it should stay above 4.15v or something might be wrong with it. Make sure it doesn’t get hot during a normal charge, or there is definitely something wrong with it. Finally, measure discharge capacity if you can, and internal resistance.
Yeah.
Between 1,0V-2,5V, charge at 25mA-50mA.
Below 1,0V, either discard it, or charge at 25mA maximum.
Unless you have dedicated equipment like me, then it is not worth it.
Sorry, I have the neutral white version of the SC62w. I’m not too sure about the color temperature on it since I bought it back in 2015 and I don’t see product pages for it anymore. I’m having such a hard time deciding if I want to wait for the SST-20 or the XP-L HI 3D since the SC62w seems to be in the middle of both of those.
I still have my SC62w and it only has a few battle scars here and there. Very small chips around the bezel. I’m just looking to replace it because I feel like I’d like a ramping UI. I have no experience with a ramping UI. I haven’t bought a light since the SC62w, so I’ve been looking for a new light. It does seem like the answer is to buy both SST-20 and the XP-L HI 3D!
Also, muggles have a hard time using the SC62w and aren’t used to the slight delay of the electronic switch. They end up clicking it multiple times and putting it into strobe mode.
Anyone with free DHL ECOMMERCE shipping to the USA have any significant movement in their package yet?
April, 28 2019 05:32 EDT
EN ROUTE TO DHL ECOMMERCE
I suspect it will hit stateside customs any day now just by past experience but maybe someone has an update.
Neal has mentioned May 8th a couple times previously, so I hope my tracking info updates then. I’m in the same waiting game as you (XP-L HI 3D).
That’s not the answer. The answer is to buy both of those and a SC64w HI 
Yes, I think the SC64w HI is my current favourite light. Small, great tint, nice UI, efficient, moonlights, and decently bright. But, I can see how newbies wouldn’t like it. The user-interface takes some getting used to, and it’s definitely more of a flashaholic’s light. You can use the new UI to program it much more simple, though that just dumbs it down IMO.
Newbies will probably like a ramping interface more. I know that while I prefer modes, other people prefer my lights that have ramping. So, the FW3A probably makes a lot of sense if you’re lending out your light.
Oh, man!
What curves.
I want this light!
you can have a look on my blog ;)
but Neal could not make the same price as In the groupbuy (he also needs to earn a living)
On Flyt Express, mine shows "2019-05-04 00:47 Arrived at destination country"
Edited: Flyt Express updated to
2019-05-07 11:27 Avenel, NJ, US PROCESSED
2019-05-07 11:26 Avenel, NJ, US ARRIVAL AT DHL ECOMMERCE DISTRIBUTION CENTER"
I double-checked, and it now has something registered for the local (USPS) carrier tracking number that the DHL website gives:
May 7, 2019, 11:26 am
Arrived Shipping Partner Facility, USPS Awaiting Item
AVENEL, NJ 07001
Shipping Partner: DHL ECOMMERCE
Your item arrived at a shipping partner facility at 11:26 am on May 7, 2019 in AVENEL, NJ 07001. This does not indicate receipt by the USPS or the actual mailing date.
Edit: I checked DHL again and it has updated as well:
Status
PROCESSED
May, 07 2019 11:27 ET
So all seem to be in agreement.
Just got a DHL notification that I should be receiving mine on Thursday… WooHoo! Thanks all involved in the design and legwork in getting this out…
So I woke up this morning and got a notification from DHL saying my package was in Hong Kong and would be delivered TOMORROW to my door, in Atlanta, Georgia. I was skeptical considering it takes weeks to get anything from China. Boy was I wrong! Landed this afternoon in Cincinnati.
I need to read up on what needs to be done to the tail switch now. I guess a bit of glue (I keep hearing Goop is best?) should fix the nipple?
NOTHING needs to be done for the tail switch, so long as you don’t open the light at the tail. As long as you always open the light at the head, the switch is fine as-is.
However, you might wish to open it up the tail to see the switch guts or remove the clip. Or you might be worried someone will forget and accidentally open the tail rather than the head during a battery change.
If that is a concern, there is a possibility that the little nubbin in the switch boot might fall out and get lost. To prevent that from happening, you may wish to glue the nubbin in place.
I have not bothered to glue the nubbin in either of my FW3As since I have not opened the tailcap.
Heck I would say glue it, and consider it as one mod under my belt
HAHAHAH that’s pretty good!
I may give two of mine away as gifts to my father and father-in-law who have come to enjoy flashlights. Plus, I seriously doubt I’ll remember that this light must NEVER be opened from the tail. One slip up and I’ll regret not gluing it immediately.
So for those reasons, I should probably go ahead and fix the issue.
If you’re giving an FW3A to a muggle, rather than gluing the nubbin it might be better just to add some threadlocker to the tailcap threads. That way the muggle won’t accidentally open the tailcap and cause the switch to fall out.
You can use a small amount of blue threadlocker so it can be removed with a lot of strength.