FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

ah I see….yeah I came across that acronym before but the ‘FM packaged with every flashlight’ part got me confused thinking that it’s an actual thing.

I actually went and googled “RTFM flashlight” !!!

I need my morning tea :slight_smile:

I think she was only refering to the addition of Muggle Mode, not Anduril in total.

Got mine in the mail today :smiley: The tint is pretty warm but I like it a lot.

All manufactured parts should get a visual inspection. Understandable that with very high volume, spot checks are required because there’s not enough time to review each and every component. But for this product, there should be enough time. I’m guessing the spring soldering is part of automated production, but should have visual QC check. OTOH, it may have been a very rare anomaly that caused this.

Yeah, if you’re old enough to remember FM radio, that could also throw in a “WTH does that mean?” moment. It’s radio enabled? :wink:
There are so many initials floating around (some people say ‘acronym’, but that’s only if you pronounce it like a word) it can be hard to keep ’em all straight. Enjoy your tea! :+1:

It looked like it had quite an impact on the source code. Lots of duplication with variations. But in any case, it all comes down to performance and despite all the complication in coding, I’m enjoying this implementation of Anduril.
ToyKeeper, IMHO you really came up with a great UI—thank you!

I played a bit with muggle mode and yeah, I confirmed that it does not clear with slight turn of head breaking connection or by removing the battery. You do have to click 6 times.

The easiest way to know you’re in muggle mode is to try switching from ramp to step (triple click). It does not work in muggle mode—you stay in ramp config.

Regarding muggle mode, I think my preference would be to retain the six clicks to enter it, but then the only way to exit is to disconnect the power.

In terms of how it functions, my suggestion would be single click for on, single click for off, and only one mode - max 1x7135. If that’s too simplistic, perhaps three total modes - hold for moon, single click for off; single click for max 1x7135, single click for off; double click for “turbo” (somewhere around 500 lumens or level 100, or whatever a sustainable level is), single click for off. Does that simplify the code at all, or is muggle mode in general just messy no matter how it functions?

I think the “philosophy” here is that in case a muggle takes the battery out and then puts it back in, it stays in muggle mode. 6 clicks is not hard to do, right? And as I posted just a moment ago, it’s easy to figure out if you’re in muggle mode or not. You can’t go to stepped config—only ramp. So 3 rapid clicks changes nothing.

The only flaw with this is that if a muggle is going to take out the battery, it’s almost like all bets are off—they can get themselves into real trouble, in at least a few ways. One, they put the battery back in, but in wrong orientation (reverse polarity). Or, they take off the tail cap and it falls into multiple pieces because you’re not supposed to take out the battery that way. And if that happens… nubbin might fall out… then the whole light is ruined. Stupid, dangerous muggle who never should have had the light in their hands to begin with. :laughing:

Lets just keep muggles away from this one… :smiley:

So I got my two lights in the mail yesterday, one works great, the other is working intermittently. I have traced the problem to the switch on the back. Has anyone taken a look at this “switch” in person? its a domed piece of metal that is taped onto the switch pcb. Literally, just some kapton holding it in place. It is no wonder that the one light I have issues with is getting intermittent switching. Is that a design that everyone bought into?

Got mine, had sort of an odd issue (I think). No matter what I seemed to do it would just blink rapidly. quick fast-clicks, quick slow-clicks, tried a different battery (it would flash once brightly when screwed down). Tried a protected battery but it was too long.

Unscrewed the head 7-10 more times trying another battery and charged up the other ones again just to make sure, no difference, just fast blinking, sorta low-light mode.

I unscrewed the tail cap and peered around, didn’t see anything in particular wrong. reassembled.

Suddenly it worked fine. Gremlins I guess. Love it now. :slight_smile:

NO… THAT IS NOT TRUE! It is a bunch of crap in fact. :person_facepalming:
Neal will take care of it.

Email Neal about the issue & wait for a reply. It might even take a few days to get a reply, so don’t go into panic mode while you wait.

If you have not heard back from him in a few days, contact him again to make sure he received the your first email.

You will be taken care of, you can be certain of that. :+1:

[quote=teacher]

NO… THAT IS NOT TRUE! It is a bunch of crap in fact. :person_facepalming:

Good to know, and I know he’s busy with new fam and…
us….

I sent an email and will wair for a response.

Thanks all!

The issue may be tightness. Both head and tail cap need to be screwed on tight. Also check your driver retaining ring in the head. Many people have reported it being loose, including me. It’s not hard to finger tighten, using tweezers or a very small screwdriver.

Note that you can have the components tightened down, but not completely all the way, and the light still function for the most part. I loosen/tighten the head as a habit, that I’m now going to stop doing. In my case, my FW3A was working fine, but when I went into muggle mode, it had weird behavior. And then I discovered that tightening down more fixed that. So the tightness is a touchy thing that’s not binary. You can be 0, 100, or somewhere in between where you get unpredictable UI behavior (where there’s function, but not all of it works right).

+1 . No PITA at all… if ’muggle mode’ remains in the UI. (Hopefully it will not. :wink: )

LMGTFY

No offense intended.
Sometimes I am a bad person.

Oi!!!

That’s not a polite thing to say!!!

oh wait, nvr mind…thought it meant something else :slight_smile:

There might be some minor differences between operating a flashlight and operating a high-tech military plane.

If I understand correctly, the first shipment didn’t have a manual or warning card.

Muggle mode is messy. It’s basically its own little world, isolated from the rest of the code. It doesn’t get along well with others.

Other parts may be messy too, but generally for more justifiable reasons.

People don’t read documentation, and that’s not going to change.

About factory reset, it’s planned but not yet implemented. It’s unfortunately difficult to do on the FW3A in particular, because the easiest mapping for that isn’t physically compatible — hold button while connecting power. FW3A connects power before it connects the button, so the usual method for factory reset simply doesn’t work. It could happen by accident though, when a weak connection causes the FW3A to reboot while ramping up. So I’m reluctant to add it on this light.

Speaking of documentation, that’s documented. :slight_smile:

(it probably needs the temperature sensor calibrated)

The UI for muggle mode was determined by vote. Here are the results.

The UI itself isn’t really what makes it messy. It’s mostly the need to prevent people from leaving muggle mode without clicking the right exit code. Because normally there are a few different ways to return to the regular “off” state, and muggle mode needs to block all those in order to direct things toward its own “off” state instead. It ends up having to duplicate a few things.

Yes. It’s a pretty common e-switch design. This general type of switch is used on a lot of brands. Usually it’s more of an integrated unit where the dome is glued or at least the tape is cut and applied more precisely, but the style is otherwise mostly the same as other compact e-switches. I actually kind of prefer this to the Emisar switch in some ways — it’s harder to break and easier to fix. Not as small though, or as quiet. Instead, it’s more tactile.

I like Muggle mode.

Could it be improved? Sure. But it’s nice to have in the light. I definitely do not want it removed.

Oh fiddlesticks, it wasn’t supposed to hurt. Maybe I did something wrong, pressed the wrong button? It was something I found in the troubleshooting section of my operating manual for mammals. Humans are mammals, right?

All this talk of Muggle Mode and here I am handing the FW3A to muggles in dark rooms and instructing them to say “Lumos Maximus” while double clicking the button…

Nah FM is not old at all, I still sport a Sony FM Walkman when I’m running , much lighter than my phablet and does not flap around in my pocket. Life without Spotify….sounds scary but doable :slight_smile: