For a light like this, I wouldn’t expect parts to be made available other than outsourced components like the optics. Buying a replacement light would be the more economical approach anyway, concerning the effort involved in changing out the driver.
I believe yes. You are probably sending a very weak signal to the MCU and it acts weird.
My light does not do like you describe. As soon as I loosen the head, the switch contact is gone completely.
A few times I had that low level pulsing led, but ever since I tighten the tail, THEN the head, it has not appeared.
Isn’t that weird? I mean… my light is fully functional, and I tightened the driver retaining ring… so I can’t understand what would be the variable here. If you turn on your light and then rotate the head just a hair to break the beam, nothing more, try pressing the switch at that point. See if you get anything. It’s not some unpredictable anomaly on my end — I just picked up my light and tried it again; sure enough, I could reproduce it easily.
I don’t believe so. You can on Narsil and certain other UI, but not here. With Anduril you do have 3 ways to turn on. Press and hold always starts at lowest level and ramps up. Single click turns on to last used mode. A double click turns on to highest ramp level (all 7135, no FET. About 1000 lumen)
No UI can please every person all the time, but I think you are covered by turning on with a press and hold.
Seems to me that all you need to do is set the last used mode to just one step above moonlight… and single click from off goes to that. But if OP wants moonlight, there’s no great stretch to just press+hold to get that, right? In the context of a programmable flashlight, that’s child’s play.
wow they already making samples of copper? that was fast… didnt expect that so soon. Im def interested in that.
The anodized layer is very thin. Maybe 25 microns. How exactly would you polish it? If you used a slightly abrasive polishing compound you would probably remove the anodized layer and be back to raw aluminum. The color change when baking the anodized part happens only to the dyes in the anodized layer. The aluminum underneath stays the same color.
Wow, I’ve never seen a bead blasted copper light. It does not look so great or special. I wonder how it will oxidize with finger prints and so forth? You won’t be able to polish the tarnish away. Hmmm, a lot of unknowns.
Maybe there will be an FW3C with the SST20. I’d buy one. 
[quote=JasonWW]
…not to mention how easily it’s going to get microscratches. That thing looks like its going to get covered in snail trails as soon as you touch it. I want an FW3C, and I gotta admit I’m curious to know how this thing would patina, but I don’t think this is the best choice of finishes for it.
I see the Nichia 219C 4000K version is available in the store.
It is even cheaper than XPL-HI version.
~2800 lm (XP-L Hi), ~1600 lm (Nichia)
How does Nichia 219C 1600LM compare to the other Emitters:
in terms of Throwiness, Beam, Heat, CRI
I assume this Nichia version hasn’t been reviewed by anyone yet
but from past experience what version would you guys recommend?
It sits between SST-20 and LH351D in all categories really
If you want to play it safe and get the better all around option: XP-L HI. High CRI has been the hot topic recently but almost every single light in the past couple years has been 70 or worse CRI and most people were ok with that, by no means it produces a bad beam, just not the prettiest.
Otherwise I’d go with nichia, it is still pretty bright. You could wait for SST-20 but the chances they can source the correct non-greenish tint bin are close to none at the moment.
Nichia 219C comes in both high and low CRI.
We’re used to seeing Nichia offered and automatically assume it’s high CRI. However, in my experience sellers ALWAYS tell you if a high-CRI LED is high-CRI. It’s a marketing point.
In this case, they aren’t announcing the CRI. A safe bet is therefore to assume it is low-CRI 219C.
Knowing that, Nichia 219C is probably worse than XPL HI with less peak output, coupled with more heat so even faster rampdown. Main advantage of the Nichia is the 4000K tint and cheaper price.
Or how about obtaining actual facts before spreading rumors?
I cant even find XP-L HI data/support on any of the triples Carclo offers and IMO there is a reason. It doesn’t really look great and it’s not a good fit for the optic.
Now, move up to the Ledil Angie size optic that the D4S uses and you have a much better beam using XP-L HI.
Dont get me wrong, it isn’t awful. The light frosted part helps but it seems like most of the people wanting this would be better suited with a reflector or single larger TIR. But you gotta have more lemons!!!
I see, so the pricewise it is a good choice and heat might be a relatively major issue in High Mode especially since the 219C has only 60% of the brightness of SST-20 or LH351D.
Got it, Neal hasn’t posted the CRI yet so you might have a good point about XP-L HI being the safe bet. 
No, the problem is that the D4 doesn’t have pogo pads for reflashing. Thermal tests can only run on a fully-assembled host, and with a D4 that means unsoldering / resoldering the LED wires for every test run in order to access the driver.
Last time I did this, I ended up breaking the D4 by taking it apart so many times. I could probably fix it or use a different one, but it’ll almost certainly meet the same fate. It’s just a really inconvenient light to run thermal tests on.
I’ve been telling Neal the same thing. Bead-blasted copper is way too soft and will probably get scratched in the first day even while being careful with it.
But maybe the texture can be polished off without too much trouble. I polished the AR coating off my lenses, and I can probably polish the rough surface off a FW3C. I’d just prefer if I don’t have to.
Yeah I reckon it would wear down smooth-ish or polish off in no time after acquiring a thousand snail trails.
On the other hand it was nice to see it, maybe it would patina in a unique way.