I assume when testing the driver there is no bare springs involved right?
There are no springs at all and I use a true rms meter and I am measuring correctly with 6” heavy gage wire.
I’ve also compared and measured multiple drivers and multiple LEDS. The drivers in my lights aren’t running near direct drive. ? IDK?
Is it possible that there is something about this driver that is messing with the numbers? I suppose it is. I have a good meter and don’t have troubles in other situations. So I’m not sure what to think. It’s not just me either. There were a number of us who reported low amps, but we were kind of shooshed as ungrateful being told these were highly efficient emitters and that is why the low readings.
Again, I’m not complaining. If it’s only me, then maybe I will wait a month or so and start my own thread to try and sort it out, but if there are others, the exposure of this thread may help us some.
Had it on a bench power supply while waiting for the charger.
LVP:
None, as was stated by earlier posters.
Current draw is 28 mA at 2.5 V and drops to 0 mA at 2.45 V.
Not great if you forget the light on, but the cell will not be a total write-off.
Current vs. supply voltage:
(As measured on the meters of the power supply, leads to the light have a total resistance of 22 mohms, about the same as a very good cell.)
3.6 V: 2.00 A
3.7 V: 2.44 A
3.8 V: 2.76 A
3.9 V: 3.16 A
4.0 V: 3.52 A
4.1 V: 3.83 A
4.2 V: 4.12 A (measured 4.11 V at driver)
4.3 V: 4.47 A (measured 4.20 V at driver)
….and finally with a fresh 30Q and 10 mohm shunt: 3.5 A
….or 3.2 A using the meter directly with short/thick leads.
I don’t recall any shooshing going on, merely possible explanations offered.
You find what you find, and I am with you on the test of 30Q direct vs driver to LED, forward voltage be damned… if the direct connection gives an amp more then there is a one amp+ loss through the driver.
I’m not altogether surprised, as y’all probably already know, but I am disappointed that it went like this. Still trying to figure out just where it went south. I’ve replaced the mosfets, bridged the resistors changed the wires, bypassed the tail spring and in the end, the resistor bridging offered the greatest single gain. All of it together still doesn’t offer up the current that a direct to cell connection can give, which puzzles me to no end. Is it getting lost in the traces on the board? The reverse protection diode? Simple fact of the matter is that it’s getting lost. Earlier samples had higher readings, and that part, I don’t care much for.
Make no mistake, it’s still a good light. It’s just not what I tested and not what I expected.
I heard that all through grade school from all of my teachers, dagnabbit.
My Lucky Sun D80 only makes 4900 lumens. I don’t know what I’m gonna do… maybe someone will have some ideas on how to make it brighter? 
(I know how, do y’all?)
Edit: Hint… it’s capable of over 6037 lumens. :bigsmile:
You must have the same flamefire batteries I have as I'm getting identical results. Nice to know our measurements match.
Cool! You got 19.1A from yours too? (That’s at something over 6000 lumens)
I’m late to the party on this one and a very long thread.
Is there any summary on this light?
Looking for details like:
- Expected Peak beam intensity (CD) / distance (m).
- Has any runtime tests been done? There are some tail amp measurements but are the lower modes regulated?
- UI - is it click for next mode (with memory) or any fancy shortcuts like double clicks etc?
- Will the long tubes be available for order later on?
- Is there any time/temp limiter on turbo mode or is it up to the user to limit?
- Is there any over discharge protection at 2.7V considering the non support of protected cells?
Sharpie is right, the current that a led close to its maximum output draws is highly dependant on voltage, slight voltage changes, caused by say a quality direct drive FET-driver, a spring, a slightly different positioned DMM lead, a switch, can cause considerable changes in current. So measuring current will not give the ultimate clue of what is happening, while a simple voltage measurement over the driver tells you immediately if your driver is at fault.
(Btw, the output difference between 3.56A and 4.81A is 25%, the the non-lineair output perception by your eyes/brain will make it about half of that, say 15%)
I am not able to get to the driver yet, will have to grind out some kind of key for that ring.
Changing out the driver will take this light from good to great. My concern is more to have a custom UI, than to improve the current drive. Will probe the stock driver circuit a little when I do get it open.
This test is dependent upon both the led and the driver. Not just the led. If you substituted in another led that is known to draw amps from a different driver, then I suspect you will get similar measurements. I know this because I put this 3C emitter into a light with DD FET and it can get near 5amps from it. So the difference here is not because of the led it is in the drivers.
Sharpie mentioned some possible differences between a quality DD FET driver and this one. Suggesting why amp readings could be affected. I think those are some good reasons why this d80 driver is not getting near DD. Whatever the reasons, the driver stands in the way of 4.5+amp draw.
I had remembered a similar conversation and grabbed this statement from comfychair:
Yes! Yes! I want to keep saying this is a great light!
You have to use needle nose pliers and put your fist inside the handles of the pliers to spread them out against the notches in the ring, then grip the head and twist it slowly and it will pop free.
It is better to twist by the head than to try to turn the pliers.
Hope that makes sense.
If you cannot do it by that method, you could drill small holes on the sides of the ring and then use snap ring pliers.
It will come loose.
Also if you want to, you could hit the ring with a blast of computer duster cleaner with the can turned upside down, makes it cold as snow and will make the ring shrink and lose pressure.
Did this to mine and installed BLF A6 driver, just de soldered the factory LED wires and soldered them to new driver, instant .5 amp improvement on Turbo and lots of nice low modes!
I cut about 1 turn out of the driver spring and then cleaned up the edge with a drop of solder and used a section of 22 gauge silicon wire as a jumper.
Gives the same depth of the battery sitting in the tube as before. Samsung 30R and an LG HE2 both fit fine. I also added a jumper in the tailcap spring and was able to do it without taking tailcap apart which is good as some members have said that retaining ring can be a pain in the rear to get loose and is very slim.
HTH
Keith
Muto, thanks for the tips.
I did try (but not very hard) to unscrew it with various round nose/long nose pliers.
It kept on trying to slip out of the ring notches.
But your technique should be easy if I clamp the pliers down in a bench-vise to lock them open at the correct width.
you must not have read all of my posts. ive now ran 12 Emitters through this driver. same result.! I have spent every hour of my health in the last two weeks working with this driver. ive done nothing else with my time so please don’t attack me for holding firm to what I am seeing and reporting. there is much irony in your statements
I’m a bit disappointed in my D80BLF that arrived the other day. Dust and smudges inside the reflector as well as on the inside of the lens.
Hardly gets hot though so even on a 30Q it seems it could be brighter.
I don’t regret the purchase, it’s just a shame as it had so much more potential.
My first ever post here, so excuse my ingnorance or lack of decorum.
I’m not a flashlight guru AT ALL. I bought two of these: http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_139172.html
I bought these to put in them (this is my first experience with 18650 batteries): “http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MTFEBCW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref*oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00”:http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MTFEBCW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref*=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
The batteries take almost an entire day to charge, but the light changed color so I assume their charged. I put them in the flashlight. Nothing….from either of them. As the I’m screwing the cap in one of they will come on momentarily. I can find a sweet spot with the cap barely threaded on where they will actually stay on if I don’t move, but other than that I can;t get anything from them. Is there any hope for these lights without me completely taking them apart?
I wanted something cheap that puts out a lot of light, but obviously very disappointed thus far.
Those are protected batteries. They are TOO LONG for the stock D80 BLF and should not work properly. There is a thread for obtaining a longer "special run" battery tube. Or you can use unprotected 18650. It is shorter and should work properly.
ETA: Any battery 69mm and less in length should work fine in stock tube. The length specs on your batteries (68mm) may be wrong as they have the protection circuit built into bottom of battery. Measure your battery length if you can.
Regardless of length......Throw those batteries out!
These are about as inexpensive as they while still being a quality battery from a reputable seller...