Low volume of sales and meticulous attention to detail. Same reason high-end knives and watches are so expensive (also because they can price them that high).
HDS are priced the way they are, because they are built in USA, using USA labor for the machine work.
They actually have poor aesthetic quality control, uncentered emitters are not uncommon, cracks in the reflector are typical, some of the Rotary dials are gritty… etc. HDS claims these factors do not affect the beam in actual use. I disagree, in fact, even with a centered LED, HDS have a ring in the outer spill, and a hole in the middle of the beam at extreme close range.
The fan boy factor is very large in the HDS arena. This makes them pretty easy to resell, sometimes for close to what they cost, if they happen to have a special emitter.
HDS in the past were mostly Low CRI and had green tint to boot. Now is a good time though, Hogo has sourced some truly exceptional LEDs, the best of which imo is the N219b 4500k 9080.
It is also possible to modify an HDS emitter, here is a thread about how to do it:
HDS xp-g led mod bansuri
I bought an HDS rotary, I wanted to try the Rotary feature. I do not like that it is not smooth ramping, it jumps up in hops. I much prefer my RRT-01.
otoh, the HDS has a lot more complex programming options, if you dont mind clicking a bunch of times. As a flashoholic, I dont mind clicking, for fun and entertainment, but my RRT-01 is much easier to use, goes lower and higher than my HDS, and has smooth ramping. Plus my RRT-01 is compatible with 18350, so double the battery capacity…
every light has its pros and cons. In the case of pocket clips, the RRT-01 clip is deeper carry than the HDS clip options. With the possible exception of the HDS universal clip, that everybody agrees is Fugly.
The HDS is designed for use in a cave. 1/2 of the 24 lumen steps are below 2 lumens. I find this not practical, even though I like sublumen levels.
now to try to also be fair to say things the HDS does well… It has a very tight hotspot, which means it can use much lower lumen levels, than other lights with a larger hotspot.
my unconfirmed preliminary impression is that the HDS hotspot is half as large as on the Folomov, and the HDS only requires 1/4 as many lumens, to illuminate a small target… I like having the small hotspot, as part of my selection of beam types.
there is a lot of hype about HDS too… for example, that it can survive being hit with a shotgun. This is true, same for other brands, they just dont test them for that. HDS is also EMP proof. Same for other brands.
Jon, I know about USA made product. I stand behind that concept any day. The problem is charging ” STEEP ” price is draw back. Especially when things are not perfectly made with slight defects. Non centered emitters, cracked reflectors, etc……
BTW, I own many flashlights some going above $600 so I am willing to spend and support 100% USA made product.
BUT has to be perfect or very close to that.
I think your question leads to a discussion of what type of headband is on the hat you want to use.
For hats with stiff headbands, it works better to put the light above my ear, not in front.
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My hats with soft flexible headbands, such as my Beret and Irish Flat cap
work more easily than hats with stiff headbands, such as my Panama Hat, Stetson, or some Baseball Caps.
I agree that tucking under the front of a hat with a stiff and close fitting headband, is a bit awqward because the headband is stiff, and tight to the head, so the light wont aim forward, unless I put the hat on further back on my head than normal, and with the light under it, the hat is loose on my head. I dont run around like that, I sit still and look at something in my hand. It is not ideal.
For stiff headband lights, the clip to the brim is much more secure. It does have the potential to damage the hat brim. I would not clip to the brim of my Panama hat.
I just did a test for you, and put a light under the Panama headband, over my ear, it works better than tucked under the headband in front.
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What kind of hat do you wear?
I have hat tucked many aaa and a few aa lights. It helps to have a round head.
The Isotoner Lake of the Isles Wool Blend Ascot Ivy Hat, Cabbie, Gatsby RN# 22605 with ear flaps is what I wear most of the time in colder weather. Similar without ear flaps in warmer weather, as well as assorted other hats. I rarely wear ball-cap type hats with long brims. UPC: 040419400497 on ebay.
I had no idea what this style of hat was called, until I looked it up with the information on the tag just now.
I’m usually active when needing hands free light, so the under the hat brim method likely won’t work for me, regardless of what style of hat I’m wearing
Thanks for describing what works for you.
Question….
I noticed that run times for a given battery to a given lumen output is somewhat the same. In fact, I also noticed that manufacturers go out of their way not to match each other lumen output and run times.
Can we say that for any given lumen level there is so “this much time” it will run, within a certain range, or are the numbers all over the place?
Just FYI, all reflector based lights will. If the reflector is large enough the center donut hole can reach several meters out.
that makes sense
thanks for the link to your hat, have also heard them called Irish caps
or Yorkshire Driving Caps, but, that is just confusing, as Yorkshire is not in Ireland… LOL
I would say yes. I have a rule of thumb that an AAA battery can do 20 lumens for 4 hours… the Low mode on the Folomov is about 18 lumens, so thats my guess on runtime… you cant go by the Folomov specs, their runtime is for an 8 lumen low mode, and the light does not actually have an 8 lumen output, and it does not use an AAA
fwiw, the factory spec is 8 lumens for 4.8 hours
I have not done a runtime test of the Folomov myself