That's probably it. Because the emitter is so huge compared to the very small size aspheric the flood mode is very diffuse with the XML.
Also, comparing the K41 with XPG to the SK58 with XML: the XML is noticeably brighter in a ceiling bounce test in flood mode. Probably because of the more efficient emitter.
The dropin I thought I fixed is acting up . Now when it's on high for more than a minute , it reverts to a slow strobe in low mode .
Dang it .
I guess I'll try again . I've read where even you experienced modders have to redo things occasionally .
[quote=jacktheclipper]
The dropin I thought I fixed is acting up . Now when it's on high for more than a minute , it reverts to a slow strobe in low mode .
Dang it .
I guess I'll try again . I've read where even you experienced modders have to redo things occasionally .
[/quote]
That condition sounds like the low battery warning. Silly question, but are the cells charged? If so, there may be a high resistance connection somewhere causing a voltage drop which would trick the driver into thinking the battery is low. I'd check the switch.
My first thought, too. I got a similar low blinking when trying to run the driver from 3 not so charged NiMHs a while ago. Haven't experienced that with Li-Ion though.
Thanks guys , I'll try a different battery , since it works fine in low mode .
Sounds like a low battery warning to me, too. If it was anything with your soldering job it would likely have done it immediately afterwards so don't worry that you did somehting wrong.
I agree with Match on this here's why. I modded a MCU-C7s to XML with a 2.8 amp driver when I turned it on it freeked out it worked on low but would trip out like yours on medium or high. I checked everything including switching parts from another MCU-C7s I had. Eventually I took the clicky switch apart and cleaned it up really good apparently both clicky switches I tried had to much resistance, by cleaning them up really good and applying Superlube it worked fine. So take the light apart and clean all of the threads and connections, because the ground flows through the body to complete the circuit and to much resistance can cause the symptoms you are describing. I hope this helps.
O.K. It's the battery . So now I need a good battery . But I'd like to buy just one . The battery I put in this light to test it just now is a Solarforce 2400 mah . I bought it at the same time as my Manafont XML and my Solarforce L2 . The other , old one was a scavenged laptop battery . It charged just fine , but I guess it had developed too much resistance over time . Is this what happens ?
Had to dig this thread up but it’s the right place for me to talk smack about fixing my first p60. The WW XML dropin I got from Manafont has a really nice emitter but the driver sucks. Almost 5A tailcap draw. It fried my L2i tailswitch within a few minutes of on and off use, about long enough to measure lumens and current. I had an old KD U2? Dropin that lost the emitter, just sitting around. I replaced the drivers and replaced the warm white driver with the KD driver. I didn’t want to swap the stars because it was glued in pretty good. Figured I would have more success at the driver end. When I put it all together I had only one mode. Then I saw two isolator disks sitting on my bench. Put one in and perfect WW 5 mode dropin. I burned the crap out of my finger though. When I fixed my fenix, with brteds help, I burned my arm. Soldering is dangerous for me. Now the dropin runs at 2.4A. Might run a bit higher but it’s in an AA light with a 14500 and spacer made out of a nail and electrical tape. It will go back in the L2i when I fix the switch.
Good job I am proud of you man baby steps. :)
Awesome .
I hate the high-low-strobe on my F15 .
I have been considering swapping the driver with a 2.8 amp 3 mode driver from Shiningbeam .
But the driver looks hard to get at , and I just don't know ...
I swapped my F15s driver with the one from a uf xml 3mode. worked out well as a coworker wanted a strobe.