About $2.1 per liter here. And minimum wage is about $900 / month.
Now, if money were no object I would hit TK-35 (I will probably do anyway) and Thrunite catapult. These are my first thoughts, give me a bag of money and I will find many more 
Me too! But if there are any bags of money going, I'll be wanting them first!
The Zebralight angle lights also look interesting. H51 - Angle form factor + reflector should be nice.
P.S.: Don't get me started on gas prices. Either a brand light or a nice motorcycle tour.
Sorry Don, I haven't found any bags like this yet... But, I know who knows where these bags might be found! Politicians in my country... they find these kind of bags every day
Last motorcycle tour I went on degenerated into a race by lunchtime on the first day. The plan was to trundle round all of Scotland's coast. We'd planned to do about 200km a day. The reality was different. We'd covered more than 200km in the first two hours..
Fortunately we all lived, but my fuel and spark-plug consumption was utterly ridiculous. I had the smallest engine and the shortest range (Under 50km if I was working it hard and is there any other way to do it) so had to compensate by complete craziness. On a small engined, over tuned two-stroke. The clouds of pollutants were impressive.
The "tour" ended days early when I melted the middle piston. You used the brakes, not the throttle as it'd melt pistons on the overrun if you just shut the throttle. I forgot this rather important fact....
Tuned: heads flattened on a sheet of glass with grinding paste, then the cylinders, no head gasket and two base gaskets. Exhaust ports widened to just before the point where the piston rings could fall out (ruined an engine finding out where to stop), ports mirror polished, airbox removed (which made it very, very loud which was probably illegal even then - this was more than 25 years ago) and the oil pump uprated hence the clouds of pollutants. Even in stock form 1960's Kawasaki S1's were not known for their reliability. But it would do 175kph.
On a good day.
If you were completely insane.
The engine would do it, but the chassis appeared to be made of rubber! Not a good thing when going round corners at stupid speeds.
Agreed on the Zebralight in a probably pointless effort to drag myself back on-topic. After all, it appears that I was the prime offender in dragging this one way off topic.
I've had an H50 for several years and it was only recently that any other headlamp even remotely interested me. The UF-H3 was less than I paid for the Zebralight, has a longer runtime and is almost twice as bright on high - but it is a lot bigger. The extra weight is irrelevant to me - the UF works pretty well clipped into a pocket. My Zebralight has the rubber band pocket clip which I may have used twice. It never felt all that secure and I was confident enough in the toughness of the Zebra to just leave it to fight it out with the keys and coins in my pocket.
The H51 looks like a very nice upgrade. More light, a very low low and days of runtime on minimum level. There is no point at all in having throw on a 3 lumen light. For what I, but not some others, want from a headlamp the floody beam is perfect. If you do want throw from a headlamp, the Spark ones look interesting. With multiple dogs in the park at night I could see uses for the 360 lumen Spark headlamp. If it were a sane thing to do going into my local park after dark. I prefer my body un-stabbed so prefer not to go there at night. It is about 300m from where I live.
And I definitely still lust after a Xeno Cube. Preferably with an XM-L conservatively driven - stainless steel lights really aren't that good at moving heat away from where you don't want it.
The Nitecore D10/11 are as near as I'll ever be getting to a McGizmo light. Probably as close as I'd want to get.
What has always amuses me is that people rant and rave about petrol prices and then go and buy bottled water that costs twice as much without even thinking about it.
Ain't that the truth!
Oops.....I'm one of them.
Ive never really used an angle light before. I can somewhat see why it might be useful, what do other people think. That zebralight is looking pretty neat, great runtimes and output!!! and in a pretty neat package. How do you get that many lumens from an AA in the first place! its got 3x the output of the jetbeam E3P and the same runtime on the same cell.
Look at that pretty clip, and a pretty functional heatsink
The Torch version of it, with a really neat clip too!
I've never used one but I had times that I needed my flashlight sitting on my belt and point forward while I carry things, or sit on a table an shine to my workarea. I don't know how it works. Really appealing measures I must say.
I started by looking for AA lights only, then a search for the most powerful began, double battery big ones, and then smallest AAA's. Now I look for a good sized, quality flashlight that is just right size, can be dim effectively and with some extra features like magnetic base or angled head. I could reach up to $100 for a powerlight but now we'll see how I can stretch for a tiny piece of quality metal.
Anyway, opened the gate with an iTP EOS A3 R5 (from GoingGear.com) and a Maglite XL100 (eBay) as of last night :) Now I really need an angle light. So the consensus say Zebralight, right?
PS: Oh, and could anybody tell which one is the way to go. H51, H51w or H51F/FW ? I mean how dimm is 28 lm difference, and does the neutral one really help better in terms of contrast, do we in fact need flood one to have a workable light in close distances etc?
Before I got my Ultrafire H2B ... I never understood when people said angle lights are more versatile... straight flashlights only have to ways to hold them ( overhand ("tactical") + underhand (normal)). With angle angle lights you gain at least two more holding positions (sideways but reflector still to the front) and the whole hands-free operation: On the belt or the shirt or even on a headband. Angle lights are great for close-up work and medium range. And the Zebras are getting most stuff right and are excellent on standard Batteries (AA primaries and NiMH) from what I have read.
The H51 has a normal cool-white emitter - colours should seem less natural. I find that my distance perception is way off when things are illuminated with cool white light - the warmer light (of the w variants) makes things seem far more three dimensional. This is not really an issue at the distances these lights are intended to be used at.
28 lumens out of close to 200 is pretty much irrelevant - you will probably find yourself using it on the lower modes far more often than the high ones. The H51w uses a neutral LED. If you need an even wider flood, you can go to the H51Fw or H51F which have a frosted glass as a diffuser and only give a 10 degree wider beam - this trade-off would not suit me as output will also drop - probably by quite a lot.
My personal choice would be either the H51 or the H51w - probably the H51w as the warmer colour of the light is nicer. They are all the same price so it is pretty much a matter of choosing beam colour (Cool H51, H51F or Warm H51w, H51Fw) and beam width (wide H51,H51w - even wider H51F, H51Fw)
Thanks Don. I have a warm tint MC-E I got from KD and I must say, it is a bit too warm, could be a bit whiter. Zebralight doesn't seem that orange in the videos but better if I could have this info confirmed.
Guys, are'nt you opening Pandoras box with this thread. Look at the speed of posts. I could fear that Greta would be delighted reading it. 
I don't actually own one though I'd love to. But I'd say that beam colour for the purposes I'd use it for would not be very important.
Cool white LEDs are almost useless for medical and dental purposes as the colours then aren't what are expected - and i imagine they wouldn't be all that good for cooking either.
Now I want one after seeing these pics.
If it helps with neutral vs cool, Heres one example of how much I prefer them. I recently went to the effort of clamping my torch in the vice, with the help with G clamps and wooden blocks and a flame torch to break the locktite on the threads, to open the head on my torch, to change the emitter to a neutral. It was already an XP-G R5, but an ugly green. I ended up melted the led centering plastic plate, demagnetised the magnets of the control ring, and totally bent the head, therefore shattering the anodising off. But it was worth it. Im now far more inclined to take this torch out when deciding on an EDC simply because of the neutral tint.
I started on one torch, had it for a week, and then bought another $60 of emitters from KD. By the end of that day, I'd had converted a good number of my torches to neutral, including an SST-50 torch. (I don't have that many torches yet). I even learnt to reflow emitters so I could do it ;)
The colour rendition is on paper not that much better for the cree emitters, however practically, when outdoors the difference is phenomenal. Once I had seen a neutral emitter, I will now only buy torches that come with neutral, or can be modded without too much difficulty. There are some people that don't like neutrals.. but hey, everyones got their own tastes.
Wow, that was quite a good example and a good reason to but a neutral tint Zebralight then.
_
Nitecore D11 was an easier buy with $20 lower but the ramping isn't that recommended I guess, and I need a right angle, right? :)
Ramping without shortcuts or programmable modes can be very annoying. I don't understand why Nitecore removed them going from D10->D11 (D10 had shortcuts to high/low) .
Oops, you guys made me order a Zebralight H51 (no warm tint one was in stock at the moment) :)
$56 at HKEquipment.
That's a decent price - ZL sell them for $64.
I think they must be having a new batch made just now.