Thank you! For this, I would love this design on my KR4 and when I order the KR1.:honestly it’s the only reason my fw3a gets equal pocket time as my kr4, because of the deep carry clip. Otherwise I’d probably solely carry the KR4
Agreed, again. And please consider making it a true deep carry.
Thank you Hank for everything you make and design.
Amazing! I only realized awesome 18650/21700/26650 lights existed a few months back, by that time the D1s was not on Hank’s site anymore (I didnt even know it existed until this thread) and the D1 was on discount (going out) but never “won my heart” enough to buy. After watching a couple videos of the D1s, I would L-O-V-E a version of that, especially in the KR1 format. I may just wait for that… maybe…
Btw - I have bought the D4sV2 and KR4 in the last 4 weeks, among other things, so the KR1 is still A consideration for me, seems very interesting though (would love just a little larger and more throw).
Any change for a D4S with the 5A driver?
The best clips is the one that comes with High End lights like BOSS, Oklahoma, Barrel flashlights
It must be fixed clip with screws .. 2 way clips is very weak and doesn’t hold the light in the place very well and they won’t hold the light if you want use it as headlamp either (if you want to use it with baseball cap)
If you use clip with screws ( l hope) then you need to put Premium quality screws otherwise just forget it!
Ehh I’ve never been a fan of those kinds of clips especially since I tend to depending on activity I might just remove clips and just have it on a lanyard while hiking or just a trail walk etc. Clips fixed with screws is a no go with me and depending on the materials you can have the threads ruined pretty quick.
There’s no way to make a clip with screws because it has to fit to the KRx host.
@Hank
Any chance we can get a 18350 tube that is compatible with the lanyard ring?
By far the best pocket clip I’ve ever used is b the Spyderco wire clip. Dunno why more knife and light manufacturers dont design their clip similarly. Very deep carry, secure, easy to clip on/remove, subtle, low profile so doesn’t get caught on or rub against things as easily when pocketed.
Isn’t as fancy as others but it just works so well. The geometry and tension are damn near perfect and a lot of other companies could learn from them in that regard.
Here is an idea for a marketing model:
I love the size of the D1
The KR1 also has a great design
How about making these basic external designs in which you can swap out the internals whenever new LEDs come out?
For many years, the surefire p60 was a standard and many folks made drop ins for them to upgrade performance.
What about selling a basic shell d1, KR1 and even k1 with internals that easily drop out and then selling drop ins as new leds come out?
I am thinking about something that anybody could drop in, not something that you have to do modding or soldering to switch out.
It seems like this would be a constant market as folks continually upgrade, And also a broader market for folks who are intimidated by modding a flashlight.
With what little I have seen around here, I can see folks buying every option trying each one.
Big problem with P60 designs is the poor thermal management. Removable/interchangeable means adding more junctions and contacts which thermally, and electrically, is poor conduction. Also the overall size would have to grow - big problem for the compact design trends here, adding complexity in manufacturing, resulting in higher costs. There's just some major downsides to doing it well. Maybe with some really creative engineering...
No!… One suggestion.
Go with your proposal to the car manufacturers (to the brands).
Not new designs. Evolution of the current ones.
Yes new engines. If new interiors. No new bodies.
More than that, I’m going back to the future. Time travel. Go to the year 1950 with this proposal. That the Congress of all countries approve it and impose it as a law.
In the year 2020 (and in 2050) our cars are designs from years before 1950 with new engines.
Also the battery tube and switch assembly are probably a fraction of the total cost of many of the lights here. It wouldn’t be much cheaper to sell a drop-in, let alone an entire head assembly.
Maybe just put connectors on the mcpcb so you could swap it without soldering? Might not be drop in easy, but would eliminate the highest barrier to an emitter swap without compromising the design of the lights or having the cost of the parts being replaced constitute most of the cost of a new light.
How many “outdated” flashlights do you have that really aren’t outdated, just something newer came along so they go in a drawer and don’t get used? I probably have 30 or more.
How many “outdated” cars do you have around the house?
If someone doesn’t want or know how to solder I doubt they’re going to have thermal paste on hand or know how to properly apply it.
The cost to design and implement that system doesn’t have any pay-off to offest it. Selling full lights is just as, or probably more profitable.
Personally the “outdated” lights I have wouldn’t be brought up-to-par by a drop-in even if one existed for them (which is does for some), not to mention all the current lights you could buy for that price or slightly more.
That’s a pretty horrible comparison with a “new” car ranging anywhere from 17k to the millions+ for the average earner that’s a BIG investment on something that depreciates, BUT then again people with very high disposable income like Jay Leno for example being a well known “car guy” has many MANY of these so called “outdated” cars that sit in his collection as pieces he enjoys collecting.
So that comparison is already moot.
I don’t solder often BUT I have a stock of thermal paste on hand from building, repairing and, changing out aircoolers to watercoolers on PC builds applying paste is easy….
Well, rats!! I'm trying to place a pre-order for the KR1 but I can't log into Hank's site. Wondering if there was a systemwide password reset on his site in the last few months because I know for a fact I used the correct password 3 times (verified it with my password manager). I might just set up another account since I've not received a password reset email yet after trying that option.
Oh, and a couple questions. Does the KR1 have the feature of programming pads like my D4V2 so I can update Anduril as it becomes necessary? Didn't see that info anywhere for this light.
Will my 10A Panasonic Sanyo NCR18650GA work OK with this light or do I need the 15A like Hank has on his site? Also, I saw no mention if it needs to be flat top or button top.
Yes, with batteries type D (R20), C (R14). 3R12 (GP312S), very current.
LG and Sanyo are designing new Li-ion in these sizes.
For the current 26500 and 32500 are designs from years ago, not comparable to the new ones.
Yes, there was a website substitution.
We need to open a new account.
I opened it with the same Nick and the same password, yet the purchase history was lost.