LED ENGIN 365nm LZ1 in carbon fiber solarforce

[djozz]

Congrats on selling the light, it is a great light!

@Cereal_killer

DJOzz, I measured emitter current with a shunt in the + output from the driver. Measured in a hot off the charger 25R I got 1.35A, measuring with a rested (but full) cell I get 1.21A. A 4.35v cell should net you the full 1.4A after resting. Yes 1x18650 only.

But I do not really understand the current you get with a lineair driver (with no boosting). Either your led is way out of spec, or it is a different one than the LZ1-00UV00 that I used for my small zoomie mod, that claims the following (from the spec-sheet):

What I read here is that with a fully loaded 18650 with no voltage losses underway and no sag at all (so 4.2V) you can still expect only 800mA, in a normal flashlight situation less than 600mA. What do I miss?

[Halo]

Is your clear tailcap button from cnqg?

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

djozz, mine is pulling 3.585Vf (on the star) on an 18350 cell, at 710mA at the tail. According to the chart that’s not possible, but it is what it is.

[djozz]

@DBCstm

djozz, mine is pulling 3.585Vf Ion the star) on an 18350 cell, at 710mA at the tail. According to the chart that’s not possible, but it is what it is.

Thanks for the info, Dale! So I should not have bothered running mine with a boost driver then. Pretty weird that Ledengin publishes charts that are completely wrong .

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

I wonder if they might have made some improvements since you did yours and didn’t publish them?

[djozz]

@DBCstm

I wonder if they might have made some improvements since you did yours and didn’t publish them?

I never did a power-supply bare emitter test on mine because I was not going to use the led out of spec anyway. Now I wished that I had done that :-(

(BTW, if time allows it I'm going to post a test of the intl-outdoor 3535-size 365nm led somewhere tomorrow :-) )

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

I’ve been eyeballing those charts as well, and wondering about the same thing. They also state a variance in the 365nm wavelength when driven at other than 300 or 700mA, which is why I was targeting 700mA.

At only 700mA current draw I wouldn’t expect an IMR cell to sag, even a 800mAh IMR18350. But testing mine did show that 3.6Vf which is well below the claimed numbers from LED ENGIN. Should I pull the neg lead and check emitter current with my clamp meter? I’m using a Qlite with 2 7135 chips left on it.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

BTW, I have the spec sheet on that emitter from Intl-outdoor. Hank sent it to me when I asked about the max current recommendations. Mine isn’t here yet, but should be soon.

[djozz]

@DBCstm

I’ve been eyeballing those charts as well, and wondering about the same thing. They also state a variance in the 365nm wavelength when driven at other than 300 or 700mA, which is why I was targeting 700mA. At only 700mA current draw I wouldn’t expect an IMR cell to sag, even a 800mAh IMR18350. But testing mine did show that 3.6Vf which is well below the claimed numbers from LED ENGIN. Should I pull the neg lead and check emitter current with my clamp meter? I’m using a Qlite with 2 7135 chips left on it.

No, not necessary, using a lineair driver the tail current=the led current, as far as I know.

[djozz]

@DBCstm

BTW, I have the spec sheet on that emitter from Intl-outdoor. Hank sent it to me when I asked about the max current recommendations. Mine isn’t here yet, but should be soon.

Hey, that is interesting!, can I have that to see what I measured is what is claimed? (btw, I did not measure absolute output because I can not measure light output in Watts, I only have luxmeters, not calibrated light power meters)

[Cereal_killer]

@Halo…

Is your clear tailcap button from cnqg?

Yes, love them, use them in every light I build that takes a 16mm boot (use the blue ones in my lights that have 14’s).

[Livinloud]

If you are interested in making another UV light, not necessarily in the same host, let me know. I have a cheap drop in now and might want to get something better. Drop in has a lot of 405nm in it so a pure UV would be cool. Couldnt bring myself to drop $100 after recent spending sprees but that is a sweet light, well actually lack of light

[Cereal_killer]

@Livinloud

If you are interested in making another UV light, not necessarily in the same host, let me know. I have a cheap drop in now and might want to get something better. Drop in has a lot of 405nm in it so a pure UV would be cool. Couldnt bring myself to drop $100 after recent spending sprees but that is a sweet light, well actually lack of light

I’d be happy to, PM me and we can talk details. I have 2 more LZ1’s on hand, I’m going to be going a different way with my TN30 project so I dont need the two I have for it.

[ri_chevy]

I’ll take the 2nd one.

[Cereal_killer]

The 2nd LZ1 emitter or a second build?

[ri_chevy]

I would really appreciate a drop in build by you. I can’t do it myself. I have plenty of hosts to fit a P-60 drop in. PM sent.

[ri_chevy]

Just an update:

Dan built me this drop in. It really is awesome. The photos provided by DBCstm are spot on! Very accurate representation as to what you see and the output of these 2 drop ins side by side. I also have the Kaidoman drop in. It works well also, but just not nearly as good as the LED ENGIN UV LED.

[luminarium_iaculator]

Very nice build indeed,

But it would be way better in zoomie light or HQ aspheric like dereelight for guys that need highest intensity of spot.

Those UV noctigon leds from INTL outdors should have a bit less output than this Ledengin, and in my opinion under quality optics should produce similar light intesity of UV light like this one since this is used in reflector light?

100$ is really peanuts for such build. I can make it but for that money If I would really need it I would buy from you. Because parts + shipping cost + mine time would cost around 120$ for sure.