if someone could buy for me original for 2$ i promise wont buy fakes ;))
Not even, in a regulated mod it is simply I=W/V. But the important thing there is to use input voltage, which will simply be whatever charge your battery is at.
So if your battery is at nominal charge you’ll be pulling way more amps than at full charge (or if you calculated from your coil resistance), plus factor in voltage sag…
That reddit thread I linked has a great explanation of it. You can only calculate amperage from the coil resistance in a mechanical mod. But TL;DR someone that thinks they need 16A could actually need up to 25A as their battery drains.
On a fully charged 18650 you would need 19A to hit 80W, that only increases with reduced charge/voltage sag. There is literally zero chance these batteries are rated anywhere near that. Even the 15A constant 30Q is only 3000mAh and most of these Liitokala cells have tested above that for capacity.
I doubt 15 - 20A continuous rating cells “take 100W without feeling any pain”. Of course that is working for you because you pulse discharge them, do you understand this?
Reckless statement, my dear.
Industrial cells are designed with tight performance versus cost goals. None of them is really expensive, albeit supply and demand plays its role too. And don't take me wrong but they're not meant for Joe/Jane Dumbasspack.
Cells, on the whole, are inexpensive products. What this means is if you are paying a lot of money for whatever cells, you may be being “swindled”. Battery OEMs do not like for their cells to be in the hands of consumer crybabies, this is because it is advisable to use their cells in devices equipped with battery management systems and/or to be managed by real experts in these matters, but mostly because they do not want whiners pointing at them after their pants catch fire because of their own dumbassness. Hope you can understand.
As a battery pack assembler, I cannot say I like what you're doing. Your battery indifference is now viceing this market to some extent, with cells being rewrapped with wrong brand and specifications (faked). Hope you can get your act together, for the love of God.
Cheers ^:)
Fri, 11/30/2018 - 20:34
I want to give an example of my personal experience with the Liitokala store fakes 30Qs:
I put one in an Emissar D4 fully charged. My charger (Nitecore SC4) that I used for these said internal resistance in the 60s,
The light came on, I ramped it to turbo and within the normal 45 sec step-down the light was dimming. It also did not get as hot as it normally does with a genuine cell. Overall, with several uses and a couple turbo runs, the light was blinking at me for low voltage far sooner than with a genuine cell.
I bought my cells before the word was out that ALL OF THE Liitokala FACTORY STORES SELL FAKE CELLS on Aliexpress.
Aliexpress would not help me at all. Now I am done with anything Liitokala on their site and frankly, completely done with Aliexpress forever.
Here you go. Jack Ma, owner of Alibaba and Aliexpress specifically endorses counterfeits and fakes. Buy on Aliexpress at your own risk. huge chance if you’re ordering a brand name, it will be fake, and Jack Ma approves, or it would be taken down.
So buying the 26650 black liiokalas are fake too? I bought 4 of them when a poster mentioned in one of the posts. Buying overseas sometimes risky getting fakes?
Not sure he’s endorsing it from reading the article. It seems to me that he’s saying it’s an inevitable thing given how things are made now.
In the article he said “Every fake product we sell, we are losing five customers,” he said. “We are the victims of that. We never stop fighting.”
Now don’t get me wrong here, I’m not saying that Alibaba isn’t a huge factor in fakes (same with Amazon), but I didn’t see anything that said he’s endorsing it.
I think the Liitokala branded 26650s are OK but again I refuse to give Aliexpress my SS
Tell the manufacturer of the mods.
I use Geekvape mods only. They are the only waterproof mods in the market.
I don’t buid coils.Why should I. These mods can go to .1 ohms from the factory.
The the voltage that I mentioned is from their meters.
I bet you know more about electricity than they do.
The fact that they are multimillionares is by sheer luck.
Today, I’m going out in the boat.
When I come back, I’ll take the fakes to 220 watts in series. With a 1.7 ohms coil.
I’m that confident that they won’t explode. You watch too many news.
I don’t respond to any criticism. Constructive or otherwise.
I am my own man. And have reached the age of 69 (my favorite number),
because I don’t listen to anybody.
Specially those with negative “life saving” advise.
BTW, how big is your boat?.
Cheers.
I'm having the same problem on my MT70 Plus with 30Q's that I purchased from Banggood. I suspect they are all fakes too now. I'm glad I marked them with a sharpie when I first got them otherwise I would have forgot where I purchased them from.
As far as I’m concerned, he’s endorsing counterfeits if they aren’t taken down off the Ali site. He’s full of crap if he thinks Samsung and Panasonic batteries are made in the same no-name chinese factory. Some may be made in China, but in a Samsung or Panasonic plant. He can sit there and parse words anyway he wants, but he is definitely looking the other way when it comes to counterfeiting.
Code for lack of morals stealing intellectual property any way we can.
I’ve bought many 30Q’s from Banggood, and they all appear genuine, compared to 30Q’s I’ve bought from Illum in the US. That was last year, though, when they would ship here. Maybe they’ve had fakes at times?
That meter is telling you the output voltage from the converter inside the mod. NOT what the battery is inputing to it, that will NEVER be more than the charge level of the battery. The amperage being drawn from the battery is your wattage divides by the battery voltage. Coli resistamce doesnt change current in a regulated mod, only mechanical.
220w requires MORE THAN 26 AMPS EACH from 2 fully charged cells in series. No 18650 on the market can match that drain with the capacity these cells have.
Just go buy some Sony 25Rs if you want to vape at high wattage. Keeping your face intact is worth the couple bucks.
Intellectual property, at least as it is now, is something I do not condone and probably never will. In the name of this crap there are companies “in the hunt” of intellectual property just to take advantage of the potential royalties paid by genuine users. This is parasitical behaviour, and as far as I am concerned those who are devoted to this are parasites. This is of course also fostered by certain powers that be.
With regards to this “fake” cell stuff what I can discern is that there's a lot of people who know little of these industrial products, fostered also with all of this OEM secrecy. This is fertile ground for unscrupulous sellers to do what is going on, albeit I would very much prefer buying Heter, BAK, PLB or any other OEM cells in their genuine wraps.
Cheers :-)
It actually requires more because cells, conductors, switches, etc. also matter: there's voltage drop in each and every part of the circuit, voltage sources included, because of resistance.
Considering also the incurred inefficiency of the mod DC-DC converter, vaping with 220W at the coil should be done in a triple cell mod with 30A rated cells. Of course if aiming to do stuff the way it's meant to be done.
Cheers ^:)
Ah, I knew about voltage sag (and higher amperage once cells are no longer full) but didnt even consider how much extra “cushion” youd need to be safe at that power.
Unfortunately I think this advice will fall on deaf ears.
Its as simple as Watts=Voltage x Current
When you hit the vape device button for the first time on a fully charged cell the voltage instantly sags to say 4.0v.
4.0v x 20a = 80 watts.
Now once the battery is about depleted and you hit the button the voltage sags to say 3.0v.
3.0v x 26.6a = 80 watts.
As pointed out by Barkuti the regulator circuit will also eat a few watts of power, so your pulling even more than the figures above.
Your still vaping at 80 watts but the current load on the battery is increasing with every puff you take.
The closer it gets to depleted the more stress it see’s.
Running two cells in series doubles the voltage. So in the same scenario above.
8.0v x 20a = 160 watts
6.0v x 26.6a = 160 watts
Now try that at 220 watts. 
No wonder Li Ion cells have a bad name, when people
-have no idea what they’re doing (probably mainly vapers)
-get advise from people who don’t know what they’re talking about.
-produce and sell crappy batteries with fake specs (manufacturers and sellers fault)
-only care about the price of cells (cheap = good)
-don’t use the internet to educate themselves (not only regarding batteries…)
-make and post dishonest / misleading videos for views (not only regarding batteries…)
I also have the feeling that 30Qs I got from Banggood, are fakier than the Liitokalas.
They look terrible in comparison. And they costed me 5 bucks a pop. Buying 4.
I got back, obviously, and I’m discharging the fake Liitokalas.
When they charge, I’ll make some tests with Watts in the mods.
I won’t go over 100 watts. They were never intended for that power.
I wanted them, as I said, for 60W. Period. They do 80W, fine. They won’t remain there.
I have VTC4s and 5s. Real ones, for going higher. To 220W with a .01 ohm coil.
I dare you to take puff at that power without temperature control. And 100% VG.
Not even the VTC6s I have, are used to go over 100Ws.
We’ll see. Later.
Cheers.