I mounted the Luxeon Q on a 20mm Noctigon that was mounted on a fan cooled heatsink and then crammed it onto the Sphere 'o Many Mysteries. My Q maxed out at around 3.0 amps/525 lumens/3.54 Vf.
nice dome-slicing method i tried it before, but nto the paperclip method. Im guessing you have givenall the luzeons away by now ? if not i can find a use for them.
Yes, the one I tested peaked at 4A with 550lm out-of-the-reflector, that would be around 670 bare led lumens, depending on the reflector loss. At 3A I measured 520 out-of-the-reflector lumens, so that is 650 or so bare led lumens, so TP's value is considerably lower than mine. The voltage difference is not so far apart.
From my side I can think of many explanations for small measuring errors leading to differences from the real performance (I do calibrate my set-up, but not very professionally), but I can not think of an explanation for such a huge difference, both in output and current at maximum output. I like to think that I am within a few percent of reality.
I was not using a 4-wire connection to the LED, so there could be a little voltage drop (less than 0.05V) difference in my Vf numbers from what the LED actually received. The wires to the LED were a couple of feet of 14 gauge stranded copper wire and the Vf numbers were measured at the analyzer board, not at the LED.
The current, lumen, and color temperature numbers should be fairly accurate.
I noticed before your current measurement isn't accurate because of too high surviving currents for XM-L2 and XP-G2 from your previous tests.Good power supply and A-meter is the only way to go.
@texaspyro
Your lumen numbers look little low,did you test xp-e2 for comparison?
The XP-G2 and XM-L2 measurements were done with a different power supply (I use the amp-reading of the power supply). And I still think there is no reason to distrust that current reading by as much as 25%. I am afraid I am going to retest a Luxeon Q (I have one spare) using the current reading of my DMM (which is of decent but not top quality) together with what my power supply says. It is not nice to redo things I have already done, but I want to know what is going on here. It will be next week before I get to that. Report follows!
I redid a measurement series on a Luxeon Q, this time mounted on a 16mm Noctigon. I measured the current with my DMM now instead of using the power supply reading . And the voltage was measured with a different voltmeter, as usual at the short/thick led-wires. I am uploading a rather boring 10 minutes video at the moment for who wants to check how it was done (available soon, in an upcoming post near you), but the highlights are as follows:
-I did the output calibration again with a SWM D40A with freshly charged XX eneloops, and it gives the same lux ->lumen conversion factor as usual (1.22)
-My DMM measures a bit less current than the power supply, 0.07 A less when measuring 3 amps. so my power supply reading is nothing I worry about :-)
-The voltage graphs of these measurements match the graph in the OP almost exactly (at 3A I measure 3.43V)
-the output graph match the graph in the OP not exactly but reasonably well, considering that I measured a different led: max out-of-the-reflector output is 540 lm at 3.8A (was 555lm at 4.0A). At 3A it is already 518lm, so the graph has quite flattened out already at 3A.
So this is as well as I can measure these things, and it is still a bit different from what texaspyro measured: a bit higher maximum output, at a bit higher current, at a bit lower (0.1V) voltage.
I suspect your switching power supply is very noisy when loaded,so non true RMS DMMs would read wrong(too high).
One thing you could try is to power led with battery+nanjg driver on high(known current) and check lux numbers,and then compare those numbers with numbers you got with power supply at 2.8A.
I am not home right now, but I actually do not think that the power supply that I used (a Kert) is a switching power supply: it is heavy (big trafo inside) and the power regulator is clearly an old-school metal-wired potmeter (as you can feel when you turn it, it is therefore difficult to adjust). When I bought it I remember looking for one that has a good not too noisy output, I believe I paid 130 euro's for it a few years ago.
The test with the Nanjg driver I may do, but I am also a bit done with checking my set-up out, I really believe that what I measure is quite alright.
I have no plans for the last one I did the test with (I have a few 3500K ones for a future mod, but I am not a 5000K fan anyway), you can have it if you like. It is now on a 16mm Noctigon board, you can have the led mounted on the board if you are interested. PM with adress?
hi ToyKeeper, did not see your post before, thanks for posting the pictures. My stereo microscope is an old (early seventies) Olympus Zoom. I bought it from a dutch second-hand website for 50 euro's, which is really cheap for such a good instrument (I never bought optical instruments on ebay, locally in the Netherlands they are very cheap for some reason).
Stereo photograpy was one of my hobbies until a few years ago. It started with doing stereo pictures with a normal camera (I made a slider for my Pentax camera with 100mm macro-lens to do stereo macro-pictures), eventually I bought two vintage stereo camera's: a Stereo Realist (1952) and a Viewmaster Mark II (1962), and made numerous pictures/slides/viewmaster-reels with them.
I can generally see stereo pics just by shifting my eyes relative to each other, but I haven’t met many others who can do this. To help them see easier, I got a “Pokescope”. It doesn’t shift the viewing angles terribly far apart though, so people generally have to get pretty far from an image in order to make it line up correctly.
As far as taking pictures though… I don’t do it very often, and I’ve only used a single cheap camera for it.