You are not that far off, the ring voltage is about 90VAC.
does it need to be glued?? Why? Will the earth pin work?
It might work, the idea is to avoid the US plug pulling out of the adapter. If you are a bit careless it is very likely that you have the fingers at exactly the point where plug and adapter will separate, gluing them together prevents that separation.
I work on swimming pool equipment and the pumps are 95% of the time 220v…I’ve been shocked quite a few times by raw 220, and it isn’t terrible. I normally just smoke a cigarette (well, now I’m using a vape instead) and the nicotine gets rid of the post - shock jitters (nic is a mild muscle relaxant). I’ve always been told that 110v is more dangerous than 220v because it won’t blow you off of it, so you get the shock for longer.
After all the times I’ve been shocked, am I scared of it? Nah…. But I do respect the hell out of it.
Also, I don’t know about the EU, but here in Texas, the 220 lines are actually a pair of 110 lines. I’ll often use one line of the 220 and a ground wire to hook up 110v submersible pumps that love to trip beakers because of their incredibly high amp draw. I keep a cable in my work truck that goes from a standard us wall socket style plug to bare wires for this.
I believe that most countries in Europe uses a 3 phase system, where each phase is 230V from earth potential ( 0 ) and there is 400VAC between the phases. Small equipment (2kW and below) usual runs on a single phase and 0 and the usual mains outlets are one phase and 0.
This means that any time you touch a phase, you have 230VAC to earth. In US you only have 120VAC to earth.
It can take .1 amp to cause ventricular fibrillation.
.2 amps will cause the heart to stop. Voltage is not important. It is the current that gets you.
However if you follow ohms law the resistance of your body will have a different current passing through it depending on the voltage.
In the US larger industrial equipment runs o 480 volt 3 phase. That is 277 volts to ground which is what my last encounter was. In one hand and out the other.
From a squatting position my legs extended so forcefully that I ended up ten feet away in a pile on the floor. I cannot recommend this to anyone. It was extremely painful.
I have taken 277 like that twice in my life. Did not have to go to the hospital but in both occasions felt my heart along with every other muscle in my chest and arms clamp. I have worked in the electrical field for over 20 years and you never get used to any kind of shock.
People are killed by 220V. So many accidents I’ve read in local newspapers….
We dont have insulated prongs on plugs in Australia, Ive seen some but there doesnt seem to be a requirement for them as they arent on everything Ive bought recently, at least not that Ive noticed. We use 220-240v, average outlet is 10A, 15A is common in sheds etc and I seem to recall as much as 30A outlets being installed for older AC units. All houses built after X date must have safety switch boards (?RCD?), they are designed to trip almost instantly, milliseconds.
And yeah, people get killed from Aussie electricity. Not sure how common it is in household systems though. Im not going to get into the political hotcake that was the household insulation scheme related deaths in Au recently. But clearly it suggests household setups will kill easily.
Edit: Well there ya go…
I see that 63.6% involving overhead power lines. I’m still with the opinion that the tripper helps tremendously when an accident occurs.
All of Malaysian plugs are 3 pronged 240V, with compulsary 100mA leakage tripper on the incoming mains. There are additional ELCB on water-exposed equipments e.g shower heater.
I remember reading quite a few death by electrocution during the 80s, but with the ELCB implementations almost never hear of them nowadays other than when flood occurs (again with the overhead lines falling into water). I am thankful to whoever picked and enforced this - it may have added cost but the decision have saved countless lives. Maybe even mine - who knows? I’ve been zapped 240V a few times too. 
How about taping a bit of electrical tape to 1/3 of the prongs to get ‘insulated prongs’?
Tape would shift I think. Perhaps heat shrink tubing?
The ones Ive seen are very thin. Closer to a coat of paint than something like a sleeve of heat shrink tubing. Not that Im saying the tubing would or wouldnt work.
And Pulsar, the 63.6% is not 63.6% of the total number of people electrocuted, its the % of overhead powerline related deaths that were employment related.
And over half of all electrocutions were work related, but not necessarily overhead powerline related.
Well thats how I read it anyway.
The current National Electrical Code (which is genrally the basis or the actual code used locally in the USA) requires that Ground Fault Interupters be used outdoors, and anywhere else there is a water supply within 6 feet of the outlet. The result is bathrooms and kitchens and often laundry areas will have GFCI protection. Most are via a GFCI outlet, but GFCI circuit breakers for installation in the ‘fuse’ box also exist.
The distribution system in the USA/Canada is 3 phase, and most industrial users are supplied with 3 phase power. Residential 3 phase is very unusual. Most residential power is either 230VAC (two 115V legs), or 208VAC (2 115 V legs 120 degrees apart, 2 out of the 3 phases available). You are more likely to find 208 in new construction, but that is no guarantee. Also in the USA the neutral will be connected to ground at the service entrance or fuse box. 3 phase is very attractive for large loads for two reasons. Less amperage (smaller conductor) for a given load, and 3 phase motors do not need any modification to start, no start capacitor , start winding and.or start relay/switch is needed). 3 phase motors are also easily reversible. Swap any two phases and the motor runs the other way.
The National Electrical Code also requires GFCI protected outlets in any area with unfinished floors. This applies to garages and basements.
I see this is the adapter for US to Europe for electrical items. Is there an adapter that works to go from the Europe to US?
Thank you for the writeup and the education.
Yup, there US to Europe and Europe to US adapters. I use both quite often, and they cost about $0.70 a piece.
Yes, power adapters are available in every flavor imaginable.
Cool. Thank you.