I can too. 
The reflector is a parabola, so how would it be specifically designed for XM-L2?
You could start a topic about it (or in this topic), include some pictures, do it yourself with some advice where needed from BLF members.
I’m curious about what kind of MCPCB the McGizmo uses.
If it’s regular 16 or 20mm it should be an easy swap.
I wish I knew what you were talking about, but not a clue 
This:
is an MCPCB.
A.k.a. ‘star’.
Regular sizes are 16mm and 20mm diameter.
Some brands use custom MCPCBs.
There are also many other sizes on the market.
Either way, it’s where the LEDs are soldered on.
Its neither of those. It measures ~19mm diameter, so not far off a 20, but it has four spots machined into the edge, 90 degrees apart, for mounting. And its mounted firmly. I don’t think its soldered since the pill is made of titanium (I think), but instead I think those 4 machined bits are “pressed” or expanded to hold the mcpcb very firmly. I couldn’t get mine apart without feeling like I was about to destroy it.
But then I was trying to be very careful. I don’t really want to destroy my new expensive light. Someone who’s done it before may know exactly how to get it apart without damage.
I made the decision, instead, to order a replacement can and just build a new light engine from scratch. The “factory” driver cavity is tiny anyway, like ~10mm tiny. That doesn’t exactly make things easy either. So my complete 119 light engine will be kept whole so I can swap it back into the light at any time.
Still for sale by the way, in case anyone thinks I’m not selling it.
Sold. Thank you.
Glad you got it sold, stops me thinking about it! :laughing:
You are in Scotland too, we could have probably done the deal in person haha!
Glad it sold. Note, the light is easily modded. It’s easiest to use the stock board or you will need to file down a 20mm noctigon to fit. Annoying.
It also fits only 14mm drivers. The pill is hollow with a thick rim. The body is not meant to fit 18mm cells. Overall, it’s not a great modding platform. there are some nice aftermarket options out there but everything is costly.
Note that I’ve had several haikus, modded all of them and sold all of them.
Now I have a modded one again and am likely to keep it.
This is kinda the wrong market. Nice light. Performance does not match the price, but it’s a sweet light nonetheless.
Gunga do you know how the bits mounted in the factory “can”? Are they just press fit or is it soldered together? I’ve considered disassembling mine but it didn’t want to come apart very easily, so instead I just ordered some of those aftermarket parts you alluded to, and yes they were expensive.
Hey there.
The stock board is held in at the 4 posts in the pill. It’s just a friction fit so you can pry off the board with a thin blade (after desoldering the LED). It’s an aluminum board. You can file down a 20mm noctigon to fit but I have never done so.
The pill is aluminum and basically hollow. It was never designed for high current. Aftermarket alternatives are better for hot rods. I have a 12mm fet driver in mine but when you go far past 1 to 1.5A it’s best to treat it as a burst mode.
There is a 14mm contact board soldered to the pill. I leave that in place. You can desolder the wires attaching the driver to the contact board and replace the driver. It just floats in the hollow pill. A fairly thin 14mm driver fits in the pill. This limits the variety of the replacement driver.
Tana on CPF has some awesome aftermarket pills and even a triple conversion but they start at around $86 (ouch). Still, it’s a nice way to upgrade your haiku.
.
Mine has a nice 4000K xpl Hi LED with a 12mm fet driver. I just wish for lower moonlight modes and a way to limit max drive (this one uses Guppydrv).
If only I could program like Toykeeper. I’ll try to get a 14mm Texas Ace driver to achieve these goals.
I came into this hobby looking at these lights ...I'll leave looking at them .... It's like the circle of life .
Chicken ,road ,haiku