Yeah, that plastic piece is just pushed inside the head.
I'm not enirely sure what to do with it. I have a spare 17mm boost driver flying around, and the idea with the copper cap and TIR optic sounds tempting 
if you try it, only put adhesive around the lip - anything that touches the sides of the tir will effect the beam - even clear hot glue 
Probably the whole bottom lip right? So that it would set flat on the star?
if I remember correctly, even more than that, because there is a neck in the bottom of the reflector that the original LED sticks up into
if you have calipers to measure it with, I’m sure you can find an aluminum one that is FAR superior
I think so. And for an XR-E you'd also have to drill out the hole in the reflector to accommodate the led.
Is the TIR necessary? I would rather get a standard lens from kd and just use regular optics unless it would be easier with a TIR and I could still get throw and not flood out of it. Sorry but I know nothing about TIR optics.
Also from KD?
Reflector measurements 
Diameter: 20 mm
Height: 14 mm
Do you guys think that this driver would be ok? And would a 10440 push it safely? Or should I stay with something closer to what it has and just run AAA?
I have a few of these if someone wants me to ship them to them.
TIR is not necessary - just happened to be laying on my bench when i was messing w/ the light.
KD has small reflectors - also dealextreme and cnqualitygoods.
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1409
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1407
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1381
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1378
same as uf2011 http://dx.com/p/18mm-12mm-aluminum-textured-op-reflector-for-cree-led-emitters-4-pack-14598
lens might fit?
http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020793
edit - you’ll need a way to prevent shorting the emitter solder joints together if you use those reflectors (plastic centering ring, spacer, etc.)
oh, and I think around 500mah is about as high as I’d go for current, and I’d stay with AAA. save the 10440 for something w/ better heatsinking.
So technically the stock driver at 510ma would push an XRE ok and I could use a copper cap for slightly increased heat sinking. All I really need to buy is a better aluminum reflector and a lense to make this a pretty cool little light that will run on a AAA battery. Right? I have an XRE 16mm star already. I really do thank you guys for your time and knowledge on this light.
Rick
yes, I think I stuck w/ stock driver
you’ll want that spacer/insulator, too
http://www.kaidomain.com/Search/SearchResult.isolator
you’re welcome, i’m glad someone else like that light.
would be great if someone would make a quality one - AA head on minimum size AAA body…
Hey Manxbuggy,
just in case you don't know - if your driver draws 510 mA from the battery, then it can't push the same current to the led.
The driver boosts up the battery voltage to 3.4V (or whatever the led needs) and therefore delivers less current to the led.
BTW, mine draws only 340 mA.
Is there a link to an ebay seller?
BIC has them for under $3. I have a couple of the C8, they're good for what they are. I can confirm the 500mA reading, it's a rather good boost driver compared to others in the same price range.
Thanks guys. You suckered me into two. They should make good hosts for mods and yes I agree with liking the C8 look.
found this by mistake on fasttech :bigsmile: ordered 6 :~
Ricky suggested I post here about his revised Mini C8, and consequently the one that he gave me. I like miniature items, especially ones that are duplicates of a known larger daily use item. This one being a carbon copy of the C8 that most of us are very familiar with, it is certainly appealing to me.
I also have no sense. No sense of propriety. So, with total disregard to values and time spent, I set out to make Ricky’s Mini C8 a better light. This meant a custom made pill was in order. 
I started with a 1” bar of 6061, and ended up with this…
Utilizing a copper Noctigon board with an XP-G2 R5 2B emitter, I put a stock 3.04A Qlite behind it…
Here’s a look into the 18mm McGizmo reflector, glued to the Noctigon to ensure centering in this little light…
But I did something new, and I believe in so doing I made a mistake. I ran out of Arctic Alumina so I used JB Weld instead. I have been seeing some others using it with no fear of shorting or causing electrical issue, but I must have missed something….as I believe the JB Weld is acting as a resistor and limiting the output of what I intended to be a little powerhouse. The light will only pull .73A, making 217 OTF lumens with 3 modes.
217 is significantly higher than it started, for sure. And of course the tint and beam profile are very nice now too. Rick likes it, it’s pretty darn potent, so that will have to be enough for me…for now.
Gotta run, but will be back with version 2 of this little Mini C8 in a little while