thanks! all the squares belong to "CoolWhite" .. omg. That looks indeed like lottery argh!
'premium' about Quarks is ante todo their pricing. machining, built quality and anodization of Klarus and Sunawayman are way superior, anyone could tell right away. but with the premium price of quarks stuff you get to enter the cpf community and the large 47's supporters and fanboys group and also the feeling to be part of a big family with a long history and tradition. and it feels good to post on cpfmp in the 47's forum and i dont feel so alone with my acquired product. that makes the 47's lights so outstanding and worth the high price. when you pay the 69.99bucks you can actually feel how this money supports the 47's company and their investments (modernization, new printed catalog, rebranding, new website, etc.) and number of employees, and this feels awesome. paying for a quark elevates the buyer to the grand world of CPF. 47's products are probably the most often reviewed flashlights nowadays. you pay the premium price, and then you're a member, one of CPF and the supporters.
I don't own lights above the $35 mark, so I can't really comment on the "premium" brands mainly because of customs reasons, but also because of the possibility of receiving a bad tint on a $50+ dollar light and this can happen with any brand. BTW the graph is still missing the most important thing to me... the real color rendering capabilities... and I don't mean the CR Index as the industry uses it now.
the whole hotspot is a very bright donut hole and its delimitation a super bright white ring: the round center area (hotspot area) is darker than its comprising circle. yes, difficult to notice. only on a white wall. my other lights dont show this phenomenon. the donut effect is not too striking because of the overall symmetrical beauty of the beam pattern and the sheer brightness of the hotspot. but yes, it is noticeable. haha
+ 1
cheapish switch. tsss. (my romisen and quark have better feeling switches)
most annoying about it: if you press it really deep, it does another click sound. basically you get a double-click sound when you press the switch beyond the first click point ("clickclick"). in either case pressing the switch feels cheap and also sounds cheapish. not a big deal and shouldnt bother anybody .. but it is noticeable and noteworthy.
wow that was an easy fix! Now my switch feels and sounds premium $)
What i did:
i replaced the original (thin) rubber boot with an original Foursevens Tactical rubber boot
which is thicker (rubber wall thickness) and smaller (boot height) than the Klarus boot. In addition i oiled the clicky with (quite a lot of) superlube oil:
so now the double-click sound is gone too!
And there is now less play/space/air between the boot and the clicky (practically zero!) so that you get a real momentary on as soon as you touch/press the boot.
premium clicky feel, no more long ways until activation, no more wobbly tailstand, no more squishy squashy sounds or double-click sounds, all problems solved. That simple: 1x 47's tactical boot (black or blue!!), and 1x Super Lube original product -- that's all you need for the fantastic transformation from cheap to premium!! And the idea was stolen from cpf haha
Hey, the 47's thick boots costs only 35.00 and they are well worth the money!! :hat:
I didn’t get my PA1 from DD but I did order a PA2 from them and got it in about a month. Everything you can say about the PA1 is true of the PA2 except the PA2 is much brighter. I find I use my PA2 more often because it is not much bigger or heavier yet is about twice as bright. If a little extra length is not an issue, the PA2 is brighter and has longer runtimes. If not, the PA1 is plenty bright for everything short of spotlighting outdoors. It is a flood/spot mix so it is best for close to medium range.
i finally got my first copy of Tank007 23mm diffuser and i will receive another copy soon. the diffuser is interesting since its orifice reveals machining marks of 3 boring up operations: it was drilled 3 times to accomodate 3 different diameters. the most outer drilled diameter is 22.70mm (and it should have been 23.00mm argh!), so i need to perform a boring movement with the p1a by twisting back and forth the head (the p1a has no "bezel"!) and pressing it against the 22.70mmØ orifice. This will hopefully grind up (bore up) the diameter to the 23.00mm. Forward "drilling" movement is 10mm (yikes) depth, because at that depth you hit the middle drilled diameter (22.0mm) and thereafter (from depth 20..30mm) the diameter is 21.0mm. So basically "this Tank diffuser fits 21.0, 22.0 and 23.0 bezel diameters"; while this self-quote may be true or not, the nominal diameter is 23.0mm so that i could recommend it only for use with 23.0mm bezel diameter flashlights. Once i am done with the boring up, i'll post a picture of it placed on the p1a.
EDIT: done!
the outer diameter of the P1A at the bezel is 23.20mm, no wonder that the 23mm diffuser (with 22.70mm inner diameter) didnt fit nicely from the beginning. Well, i am done with the boring (with 2 hands, no machines or tools!), and the result is really pleasing: (click to enlarge!)
The above pic-in-pic beautifully :love: depicts the 3 Tank007 bores to fit 3 different bezel diameters. The red mark is the diameter step from 23.0mm (area A) to 22.0mm (area B; Quark head fits nicely!), and area C is for 21.0mm bezel diameters. The Xeno E03 and the Fenix LD20 have a 21.5mm bezel diameter and neither fit this Tank007 diffuser in a satisfactory manner. The Xeno is too loose in area B, and cant enter area C!
The P1A and P2A are nice throwers with tight hotspots, great for outdoor use. Indoors i do prefer the usage of a directed diffused beam which you'd get with diffuser lenses (see Eagtac T20), or transparentdiffuser tips (see Fenix). This Tank007 white (non transparent) diffuser tip fits 100% perfectly snug'n tight on the P1A/P2A (area A) but it's of limited practical use: since the light is emitted in all diffused directions you get a nice candle (Easter Holidays, Skt. Martinszug, center-placed in a little room with dark walls where a white ceiling bounce is hopeless) and that's about it.
Since i got the diffuser "for free" with the DD discounting system etc. --price in Germany is ~10€ shipped (=13.xxUS$) lol-- i wont complain and can highly recommend this item to any P1A/P2A user .. as long as you acquire it as cheap from them (Dinodirect).
Btw I am tracking my personal copy of P2A from DD and it should reach me later this week, then i can compare the P2A's performance with 1x 14500 ("lego-ability"). Another 23mm Tank007 diffuser is shipped with the P2A (for the P2A, as spare for the P1A/P2A, or for sale (pm me)). Why? Again because i got it "for free" from DD so why say no? ;)
today i got my P2A. it differs from the P1A in many details and seems to be an improved version of the P2A. now i am wondering if the P1A was improved too. say hi if you acquired a P1A most recently (what's your serial number) and if your copy has square threads too similar to my P2A unit.
anyway. wtf cares. most of us have already bought the P1A, P2A or both. so comparing older versions with the improved versions is in vain or makes no real sense. with my (improved version of the) P2A i have lost all (potential or possible) lego-ability .. on the other hand i could regard it as "really different light" since so much is different (or "improved"):
found an easy way for a directed diffuser. well it's not really directed (like the Fenix transparent diffuser tip) but diffusing < 180°. the white Tank007 23mm diffuser tips would diffuse the light ~360° like a real candle flame, so much light gets lost in all directions.
take 1 disposable latex glove (from a 100-pack from your local discounter, ALDI, LIDL, Safeway supermarket). you'll notice that the outer latex surface (exterior side) is non-smooth and very slip-proof with a lot of grip whereas the inner latex surface (interior side) is very slippery and comfortable on the skin. cut a glove finger and evert it. pull it over the bezel of the P1A (or P2A). you can stretch the latex to your liking and make the "diffuser lens" as thin as you want, the latex wont tear that easily. no glue or adhesives are needed, the latex will stick on the anodized head thanks to the high friction factor between the 2 surfaces.
No need to push the P1A .. i dont think that many people are interested in my posts here, duh.
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i got another diffuser, this time it's a diffuser lens. By Olight, paid 6.49US$ shipped for it which is a competitive price. Don't be a German fool and pay 16.90€ + 3.00€ shipping (=24.89US$) for the identical stuff!!
The diffuser cap is made out of black flexible (rubbery?) material and cant break if you drop it; it also protects your flashlight glass lens from cracking. Its clever inner construction allows for fitting of a range of popular bezel diameters, i've tried and am very satisfied with:
