That's right, it would be interesting to graph the difference in voltage sag between one cell & 2/3/4, etc.
We still have a starting point of ~4.2v though, & it's only going down from there.
I just measured vDroop in my other D01. Resting voltage was 4.0v, which drops straight down to 3.8v on full output.
Looking at Djozz's XP L testing, a solid 4.2v under load should be around 7Amps, but in the light, if we are dropping around .2v, that brings us down to ~5.5Amps straight away.
Of course, that number will vary somewhat, depending on the type & charge of the cells.
Not so long ago I did a test on one XP-L1 Hi led and the voltage was 0.2V lower than the two XP-L tests that I had done a while ago. See https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/35024
(See the test thread for an explanation of the sudden dip in the Hi output)
My approach was kinda different….i call it the easy mode modding:)
Yet the result is same as the OP- arround 320k cds, my tail amps are only 4.4( rining with 3x 25rs) and i used the default driver( resistor modded, it seems it has a potential), the led is V6 1A dedomed
The reflector is stock( only the emitter whole is being made bigger), the spacer used is thinned c8 one, MCPCB is Noctigons ofc
The hotspot came nearly perfect: the outher ring is from the glass( default one)
FmC, I really like this build, and I am taking away some of your procedures and applying them to my own similar build on a Shadow JM26. Making ears or tags with the braided wire is a great idea.
I see you have your reflector flush against the Noctigon pad. Did you try other heights as well and found this to be the best focus point? The JM26 reflector is smaller than the D01, and I will need to raise the pad up slightly for the reflector to sit flush. Obviously, I will need to experiment with height, but just wondering if sitting flush on the pad will give me the best focus. Again, great job.
To be honest, I haven't spent a lot of time trying to fine tune the focus, it's more the case of getting the LED high enough into the opening so as it doesn't create artifacts from light hitting the side of the hole. I think some guys have sanded the reflector base thinner to get around this also.
There's not a lot of room to move (adjustment) between getting the LED high enough, & sitting the reflector flush on the board. Short of making a focus testing rig, there's going to be a bit of trial & error measuring any slight differences in height (taking throw measurements).
I'd say get the LED as high as you can to begin with, then gradually add thin insulating gaskets to the reflector base/board, & measure each time.
This is good info, but you are not providing much details. Yes - a de-domed XP-L will have better throw than an XP-L HI with the tint tradeoff's (we know you like de-domed tints better anyway), so you get the same throw for less current. What Noctigon MCPCB did you use? Did you beef up the LED wires? What did you do about clearing the LED wires? What resistor did you mod to what value?
You call this "easy mode modding" but you provide so little details and specifics of the mod, I can't tell what is so easy about this? It's easy to throw numbers out there and a couple of pics after it's all done - this doesn't help us understand what you did.
Yeah TOm , you are right
Well, since i found that Gearbest Courui D01 isnt that good i found this one
Clean reflector and glass, as english says no ” chips” on the oxidation, and most of all good default driver, same as in kinfire: with dual PWM
I used Noctigons 35mm MCPCB, V6 1D( unfortunately its price rised) and that default driver modded( resistor bridged)
Its actualy a very good driver, it survived after several reflector short connections :bigsmile: only the coil smoked for a while but its good as new- and exacly what i need, starts at max, then 700ma, then off and a hidden strobe: beauty
Nothign specialy realy, i dremeled the reflector a bit in order to avoid future short connections
Ahh - ok. Interesting bout the AliExpress one - didn't realize the GB ones were not that good. For the driver, it's all about if you want stock driver capabilities and UI. If the stock one can support high amps, that's great, but I'd prefer a better UI and the advanced features.
