Modifying Shadow JM07 Pro driver for more current

[bose301s]

This is annoying, I absolutely can't get the pill out. The one in the pictures above had the 2 holes to unscrew it, mine doesn't have those :( I may make them myself, just drill them into the pill so I can remove it.

[bose301s]

@Richie086

@bose301s

Illumination Supply has the chips, they even have the higher binned 380mA ones. I personally may order a new 8x7135 380mA driver and stack a 9th chip on it to get ~3.4 A.

Thanks Bose, I'll look into that.

[/quote]
https://illuminationsupply.com/amc7135-bare-sot89-package-p-71.html?zenid=01b6dfeca6a4f1bbec32cb8256269ebc

That's what you want, I couldn't link before because I was on my phone and it doesn't like this forum that much, lol.

[Richie086]

@bose301s

https://illuminationsupply.com/amc7135-bare-sot89-package-p-71.html?zenid=01b6dfeca6a4f1bbec32cb8256269ebc

That's what you want, I couldn't link before because I was on my phone and it doesn't like this forum that much, lol.

Thank you Bose, exactly what I needed. I'll contact BLF member, E1320 and see what he thinks. Maybe see if he can upgrade my USB/charger flashlight too I got from IOS.

[kramer5150]

@bose301s

This is annoying, I absolutely can't get the pill out. The one in the pictures above had the 2 holes to unscrew it, mine doesn't have those :( I may make them myself, just drill them into the pill so I can remove it.

I dont think this light uses a screw in pill / retainer design.... Looks more like its pressed in. If that is the case, I am not sure how to get it out.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7069/6808352534_669315f619_b.jpg

[bose301s]

@kramer5150

@bose301s

This is annoying, I absolutely can't get the pill out. The one in the pictures above had the 2 holes to unscrew it, mine doesn't have those :( I may make them myself, just drill them into the pill so I can remove it.

I dont think this light uses a screw in pill / retainer design.... Looks more like its pressed in. If that is the case, I am not sure how to get it out.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7069/6808352534_669315f619_b.jpg

Yea, I may give up, would rather leave the light as it is than ruin it trying to modify it.

[E1320]

It looks like you might be able to push a thin nail through the emitter wire hole and tap it with a hammer and knock the driver out that way.

[bose301s]

@E1320

It looks like you might be able to push a thin nail through the emitter wire hole and tap it with a hammer and knock the driver out that way.

Yea, first need to get the LED out, need to get a chisel or flat tip for my soldering iron, the standard point doesn’t want to work.

[E1320]

@bose301s

@E1320

It looks like you might be able to push a thin nail through the emitter wire hole and tap it with a hammer and knock the driver out that way.

Yea, first need to get the LED out, need to get a chisel or flat tip for my soldering iron, the standard point doesn’t want to work.

I usually freeze the pill to get the emitter out it makes the adhesive hard and it basically shatters when you pry at it.

I also use an x-acto knife and cut the solder away instead of using a soldering iron so I don't cause heat damage to unseen components.

[bose301s]

@E1320

@bose301s

@E1320

It looks like you might be able to push a thin nail through the emitter wire hole and tap it with a hammer and knock the driver out that way.

Yea, first need to get the LED out, need to get a chisel or flat tip for my soldering iron, the standard point doesn’t want to work.

I usually freeze the pill to get the emitter out it makes the adhesive hard and it basically shatters when you pry at it.

I also use an x-acto knife and cut the solder away instead of using a soldering iron so I don't cause heat damage to unseen components.

The JM07 doesn’t use an adhesive, it has a paste, if you unscrew the LED it will move around some. I will just use a soldering iron and solder sucker, never had an issue.

[E1320]

@bose301s

@E1320

@bose301s

@E1320

It looks like you might be able to push a thin nail through the emitter wire hole and tap it with a hammer and knock the driver out that way.

Yea, first need to get the LED out, need to get a chisel or flat tip for my soldering iron, the standard point doesn’t want to work.

I usually freeze the pill to get the emitter out it makes the adhesive hard and it basically shatters when you pry at it.

I also use an x-acto knife and cut the solder away instead of using a soldering iron so I don't cause heat damage to unseen components.

The JM07 doesn’t use an adhesive, it has a paste, if you unscrew the LED it will move around some. I will just use a soldering iron and solder sucker, never had an issue.

I do a lot of driver swaps and have had small components on the back side of the drivers fall off while trying to desolder them from the pill. If you don't plan on reusing the driver it doesn't matter, if you do simply cutting the solder points with an x-acto knife keeps the small components that may be attached to the solder point that holds the driver in from falling off. .

[Richie086]

I never understood why Hank used the 7*7135 2.5a on this great flashlight. Seems to me it should be able to handle the extra heat generated by a 8*7135 2.8a. Heck, even the USB Charger flashlight I recently purchased from them has the 8*7135 2.8a behind the XM-L and makes a big difference.

[antonkochubey]

@Richie086

I never understood why Hank used the 7*7135 2.5a on this great flashlight. Seems to me it should be able to handle the extra heat generated by a 8*7135 2.8a. Heck, even the USB Charger flashlight I recently purchased from them has the 8*7135 2.8a behind the XM-L and makes a big difference.

I’d bet it’s the reflector that makes difference, not driver. OTF lumen difference between 2.5A and 2.8A is less than 100 lumens, at over 500 lumens that difference should be unnoticeable.