how to unscrew the bezel??
Thank's Foy as solarforce's biggest supporter i knew you would know thanks for your time, i might even try some of there batteries.
@ Harry i guess it depend's on what version you buy or what light you have my stock L2 unscrew,s with your fingers, the ss flat bezel unscrews with your palm of your hand, the b6 flat bezel can unscrew with your fingers and so do most of them ive seen on the site by the looks including the L2T at a guess.
as for my colour matching problems im just going to buy more complet lights its cheaper and easier and the finish should match i like these little guys even though they run hot.
illjusthavetobuyoneofeachitstheonlyway
From what i see its bezel looks similar with xeno's bezel.
well i could not help myself tonight i brought a LP2 a S1 switch a B3 bezel and a pair of the solarforce batteries to try out.
yippieee... finally i received my first solarforce.. which is L2T.. i love it especially it's black matte anodizing color.
However, i removed the black rubber thingy from the body. Why doesn't solarforce making it from aluminium instead of rubber?
i would like the LT2 if it wasnt there at all
it?? you mean that black rubber?
yeah
that's why i removed them...
planning to get m6 and m8 by next month.... hehehhe
I like the look of the M6
had some more goodies turn up for the solarforce torch bodies a holster and another Ultrafire Cree T6 3-Mode Memory LED Drop-in Module
this drop-in draws 1.6 amps on my old trustfire flame batteries im looking forward to trying out some other batteries ive ordered as soon as they get here
Another order arived from solarforce this one took 9 days to get to Australia, L2P some batteries a B3 bezel and a S1 switch.
Im realy happy with the L2P very nice, well made imo the batteries seam nice too, im charging now the IR is realy low so thats good they should perform well i will do a mAh test on them and post my resuslts.
One thing that bug,s me is the S1 switch it is not a match in finsh for the old style L2 i ordered it for it is the same finish and the L2P i just got, i will no longer order individual parts from solarforce just complete host's.
Tail Cap Current Draw Comparisons Of My P60Drop-in
solarforce 2400 mAh (A) 1.67 amps
solarforce 2400 mAh (B) 1.67 amps
Ultrafire (grey) 2400 mAh (A) 1.23 amps (from buyincoins they only take 900 mAh)
Ultrafire (grey) 2400 mAh (B) 0.7 amps (from buyincoins they only take 900 mAh)
Trustfire Flames 2400 mAh (A) 1.51 amps
Trustfire Flames 2400 mAh (B) 1.50 amps
Redilast 2600 mAh (A) 1.70 amps
Redilast 2600 mAh (B) 1.71 amps
Hi-max 2600 mAh (A) 1.44 amps
Hi-max 2600 mAh (B) 1.45 amps
Panasonic NCR18650A (A) 1.69 amps
Panasonic NCR18650A (A) 1.72 amps
This is for comparison only generaly cells that have the lower internal resistance have the highest current draw. But bad cells can also read high due to high internal resistance and or bad voltage drop ive found.
That sucks, I thought these UF drop-ins from MF were supposed to draw 2.9-3 A? I'm awaiting the same L2P and UF drop-in combo. Hopefully mine draws close to 3A. Is there any chance your measuring cables is restricting the readings?
i used two DMM,s a fluke and a cheapie to do the current draws
Hmmm, which model Fluke did you use? Does it have 14 AWG wires?
Read from post #44 onwards here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/1108
Interested in your findings!
My fluke is not a new model its been around, but it was check out about 2 years ago at my old mans work and was spot on, my old man has one of the latest ones and mine read,s the same as his we did a DMM comparison a while back when we did some range testing my cheap read,s the same as the flukes every thing read,s with in 0.01.
Im not to keen to mod the leads on the fluke and since my old style fluke reads the same as my old mans new fluke and my cheap reads the same as both flukes so im not going to mod the leads on that either, but i guess all the DMM,s could be under reading.
I have brought another Ultrafire Cree T6 3-Mode Memory LED Drop-in Module (4.2V max) since doing the current draw test as it not a bother to me, they are a great 3 mode i really like they dont have flashy modes and the tint is great in my opinion and they are bright.
At 1.5 amps they get hot at 3 amps i think they would get way to hot to use for any lenght of time and the run time would be short, the best way to test them out would be a light meter that will tell if the DMM,s are lieing or not.
My light meter turned up in the mail today Premium Digital Light Meter (200000 Lux) i need some time to play around with it, i dont feel the drop-ins are putting out 900 + lumens more like 600 OFT but i guess the light meter will give me some intercation either way.
Yeah, the light meter may be a better measure. Now we just need to find other light readings on the web from people who's drop-ins draw 3A's.
I've also read somewhere that someone built a custom XM-L T6 drop-in which runs under 2A on high in the L2P and that he built it specifically like that because then the body didn't get hot. Well, not that quick. So if you L2P gets really hot in 5mins time, maybe it is pulling 3A's 
there is not much to draw heat away from the drop-in the base the driver and led sit on are only tinny.
yeah, that's why I remove them.