Yeah I’m sure there’s some sort of thread locker in there. I modded my S30R II a while back and it had a bit of what looked like red loctite in it, but it wasn’t much so it was easy to break loose. This one is holding on. I’m going to pick up a set of strap wrenches and try it again.
Thanks for the lead on the driver. Once I get this cracked open and see how much space is inside I’ll certainly pm drjones.
I’d still like to know why you’re missing a mode. It should have been a straight swap out. There’s no reason for that to have happened.
So would I. I’m missing two modes, by the way. Low and mid are gone. A click of the switch brings the light on in high. Holding the switch should now cause it to rotate through the modes, L > M > H > etc, but it does nothing. No change. I can double click and it’ll go into turbo, or I can triple click and it’ll strobe, but those bottom two normal modes are gone.
Think I could’ve “weakened” it somehow when I incorrectly wired it up parallel?
At first I’d say you shorted the Neg. to ground, but you still get turbo and disco modes. I’m not sure how a short would affect those modes. I’d get in there with a DMM and probe everything until your totally satisfied.
can u check the voltage at the emitter?
Well getting in there is the part I’m struggling with. Yes I can check the voltage at the emitter again and will do that soon. But getting any deeper in the light isn’t something I’ve achieved yet. Honestly though I didn’t really care for this driver anyway. I mean, 200 lumens is the lowest mode?! Come on…
I usually really like Olight’s drivers. I left the driver alone in my S30R II, for instance. All that light needed was to get that cool white out of there. But for this light I won’t really be satisfied until its swapped out, although it would be nice to know what went wrong.
I wouldn’t check the internals. Just all the emitters, traces and wire connections at the top. It could be the tiniest thing. Any kind of a short or bad connection. Check everything for continuity against everything else. If you’re satisfied that’s not it… Scrap the driver.
I’d even pull the board out and hot wire it to some other driver to satisfy my own curiosity.
I think it was the old SR mini. The new is definitely powered in parralel mode.
I was able to open my SR mini II to access the driver :
That’s a lot of thread locker.
Awesome, thank you!! Now I know I’m going about it the right way, just gotta work a bit harder at it. I haven’t touched this project in over a month. Time to drag it back out and get to torquing.
By Olight standards it’s reasonable :zipper_mouth_face:
Do you have a pic of the Noctigon installed in the head ? How did you do with the center hole and wires ?
Sorry for necro-posting =) , but here is my sr mini with xp32 installed:
