I’m only guessing, but it sounds like maybe it’s doing what it’s supposed to do. Maybe the driver needs a way to bleed off power faster while power is disconnected, so it can measure shorter durations of offtime.
Or if the tail button is supposed to act as a momentary switch, maybe it’d be better to leave offtime disabled?
To do a UI where the tail is momentary and the side switch changes modes, it probably wouldn’t take much time. Click to go one level brighter, hold to go dimmer?
Since it’s a thing people might want, and since I think Lexel may have been requesting it, I took a moment to make a Werner-style momentary UI, side e-switch plus tail clicky-switch.
Thanks WTF. Saw that too, but the 7135 channel isn't working. I'm think I have eliminated potential hardware issues (faulty 7135, connections, etc). So I wondering if the hex file may be using different channels than what the documentation indicates. I'll reexamine hardware again tonight. I may have to build my own hex file if I still can't find a hardware problem.
I just had that happen to me today when stacking three of them, some uncooked solder paste got under the bottom 7135 and shorted it out, next I got a tiny solder bridge to a nearby capacitor. It’s always the simple stuff that causes the most grief.
I wonder if the Attiny has enough power to drive a small led and resistor, it would make a simple test lead to check pwm output. Remove the 7135, turn the light on and probe the Attiny.
I believe when I researched this before, one pin could output 40ma. I was looking to make a moonlight mode without using a 7135, just the output on that pin for moon mode.
Yeah, I emailed Neal to please post source code links for the GT and GT Mini. Sounds like he's gonna do it right away. There's definitely more. Even Hank at IOS should have links on each flashlight page - think he has it only on 2 of the 5 pages.
This is crazy it's taken off, took a while though. Haven't been keeping up with it, but Andúril should probably be used in place of it. Not sure though, don't think you got the switch LED support in there? But after all, Andúril was the one that saved Middle Earth from the Dark Lord .
Switch LEDs and front-facing aux LEDs are both supported, though not at the same time. Just one or the other. The only difference is whether it should be on at the same time as the main emitters.
During standby, the aux/switch LED can be high, low, off, or blinking. And for a Q8 or GT, with a lighted button, it also goes high/low/off during use, in sync with the main emitters. Usually I set the low-high threshold at the same point as the 7135-to-FET transition, so it indicates which power channel(s) are active.
From what I recall, Narsil was originally built around its mode group UI, giving the user a configurable and carefully-chosen set of discrete levels which hit the sweet spots of each host light, and a fast way to click through them. That is the core; everything else was added later.
Anduril doesn’t have anything like that. There’s a stepped ramp, but it’s totally different than how Narsil works.
After several driver rebuilds, changes, fuse changes, etc, I just about gave up when I found the problem. The LED I was using to test the driver was the problem. It was an old, abused MGT2 that wouldn't turn on until current hit about 720mA. Once on, I could ramp down all the way. Once I swapped in 2S XPG3's, the driver worked great. So much time spent trying to fix a perfectly fine driver. Oh well, lesson learned.
I understand that frustration completely. I’ve become pretty good at killing Lexel’s new high performance fets, those things don’t like voltage spikes. Accidentally deleting a comma in the Narsil ramping table has the same effect. So much time wasted when you guess wrong and focus on the wrong thing.
Things like this are why I’m going to wire four 5mm leds to a programming clip. One for power and one for every output channel, plan to bring the switch pin out as well as a test point. Easy to put a meter on an output to check for shorts.
Once you see each led turn on dim and go up to maximum intensity you know the Attiny is working correctly and you’re down to a few output devices to troubleshoot.