New-117 (TK35 clone) mod. Turn a TK35 into a TK35UE (Updated with Beamshots 3-jan-2015)

Yup, surprised me also.

Nitecore P36 the same way, I guess the cost to cnc them is just way too high compaired to injection molding.

Ya the phil flat heads threw me also but I thinkthey had a hard time finding such a short machine thread, (I assume)

With used laptop pulls the DD is really working out well. Maybe if I ran INR cells it would get too hot too fast but now it is a very usable single mode light, so thanks again for entertaining my rudimentary questions.

Oh the DD is now so much brighter then the resistor mod version (I have one of each).

Now lets see how to a mod the resistor version to run truly like direct drive but retain the modes? humm?

As an addendum:

I read 3.1ish amps at the emitter on the DD “driver” with used lap top pull NCR18650A cells but only .875amps on the resistor mod flashlight? same cells.

Mine just arrived, it’s pretty dusty outside but not too bad. A few little nicks here and there.
Don’t have time since I just have my exams but will get to it in a matter of weeks/months.
PWM is just discusting, on low it’s so slow that you can see single light spots if you move it around fast.
I’m planning to make it a around house and farm light.
Haven’t decided yet if it gets a XM-L2 6A2 with 80+ cri or an XP-L 3D tint. Maybe a XP-L U6 5A3 80+ but I’d need to order that one.

As for the driver, I’ll try to mod the stock one first and if that isn’t satisfying put a LD34 or something similar in it. A modded LD29 might work too. The connector for the head will get a copper sealing for better contact and less abuse.

As this is a 2S light the oppertunity is to exploite the new 6V families of high power emitters. Any cree has its place but with 2S 18650 cells the light is just begging to install a MT-G2, XHP 50 or 70, MKR

I like the form factor no matter what goes in it (feels tough as nails). I took my new Direct Drive TK35UE clone for a walk last night and it is really a wonderfully well rounded usable light, lots of throw (in an urban envrionment) 300m maybe and for a single emitter it may be the best flood availible.

I bought a new AR lens form richard (RMM) so now I have extras, I ran across a nugget here on blf that said that one can lightly sand an old plain lens to yeild a more floody light, as it is totally replaceable I am gong to give it a whirl.

Your light, your call, but I am now happy being an MT-G2 snob.

Martin (M4D MAX)
has a code for $10 MT-G2 emitters deliverd from BG. check out his thread.

can you link the thread? that is very intresting.

That is pretty much it.

To answer you question directly, no.

But the concept that you can sand your lens to make it more hazey/foggy I think it pretty clear.

get sand paper. (probibly start with smoother then rougher, and some may want to use the wet/dry type.

take an old (what ever that means to you) lens.

and lighty sand it and then try it out, if you want more then sand more. if you dont like it put your “new” lens back in.

BTW on my clone that still has modes the power is way down. but boy oh boy the DD one (one off and on no other modes) boy the the light look great.

I cant belive that “improving” the sprongsmaks that much of a difference and I am trying to figure out what else it could be?

I assume that dentillozie was asking about the deal thread, but I could be wrong. M4D M4X´s deals

If you only get 3.1A in DD it’s because you have weak cells or high resistance in the light. Probably weak cells IMO. The light with the stock buck driver still in place fares worse because the losses in the buck circuit are too high to even begin to regulate at such a low voltage (again, due to weak cells and/or resistive losses).

I wanted to fritter away some time in front of Eagle, I succeeded:

wight - [WIP] 6v-LED TK35 clone driver thing: for TK35 and ‘friends’

that look great man!