4.06 volts and under. I have not tried the Folomov battery yet. Maybe this weekend I will.
the folomov battery was at 3.85 when I first got it, at 4.10-4.20 is when the tint shift happens and the massive heat buildup…maybe some of these are duds, but the head on my sample gets so hot it should have a volcano logo on it, I will take an IR reading and post later but it cant even be held near the head without burning yourself.
it hit 130°F before I said thats enough and shut it lol, My thermocouple for my meter is broken so that IR reading is not as accurate, I imagine its at least 150 tho
that looks like the resistor for turbo is shortened
can you remove the reflector and take a Pic if the mcpcb?
just tested with a full 30Q
max. 3.8A
and I did not see a easy way to open the head?
did I miss the how to?
I took the Folomov battery out to charge completely and put a charged but rested MJ1 in it. Think it was rested at 4.09. Been playing with it almost non stop since it got here. Haven’t noticed any of the mentioned problems with it yet. Especially the blue tint shift or the super over heating. Just hasn’t happened. I expected a light that small to get hot quickly at it’s highest output but this one just slowly gets warmer and warmer but never alarmingly so.
I see now, not much mass for heat dissipation. With the board having the batt positive post on it would make it difficult to add any mass to the shelf to help with heat and you can’t let that post touch the body of the light in anyway.
You just used the heat from the iron and layer it beside the led?
I agree I am not a super fan of them either. This one isn’t too yellow at all I think. I had that sofirn light, I think it was the SF36W , that was 3000K. It was out of control yellow and I didn’t like it at all. It found a new home quickly. This one is more rosy a bit and quite pleasant. I still have my favorite of in between 5000 and maybe 5700 or so and I have a few lights that are colder than that. I am not super picky so I will use them too. As long as it has a nice beam and the UI isn’t awful I will use just about anything. A lot of my lights have DC-Fix on them to give me a great even more floody beam. I leave my throwers and multi emitter lights be. I don’t put it on them.
So I was going to attempt to change one of my 18650S lights to an XPL HI but was having trouble removing the bezel. Put in a Sofirn 2200 mah battery to warm up the light to see if it would help loosen things up and the light worked perfectly. No bright white with a blue ring. Actually liked it. Still going to change one but not this one. Definately has to be battery output that causes the issue.
Sadly my 18650s on turbo is now becoming insanely hot within 30 seconds. So hot I can not hold it. This is one dangerous flashlight. I still am using the 26f battery. I am certain the dreaded blue shift will eventually happen. Somebody who does not understand how these flashlights can catch fire and cause carnage could be hurt by this model. Have not decide to return it or improve it. It is a lemon.
Nichia 219’s are notorious for heat. What gets me is the selection of emmiters. So many good ones out there and Folmov decided this one was the best for this light. Or they got a great deal on them. I think it’s just over driven but it’s just my opinion.
this thing reminds me of the cornballer from “Arrested Development” :person_facepalming:
I will probably end up returning it as I don’t think it’s safe and will probably burn itself out, it’s too bad it was a good deal and I like the mag charger.
Do the 219D’s they’re using only handle lower amps or is it the board they’re on? I have some 219C’s on Noctigons pulling 6A’s plus over FET drivers in Convoy S2’s that have been working fine for years.
Just did the work to return the Folomov 18650s to Amazon. In the fine print it says you can not return lithium Ion batteries or products powered by them to Amazon. I chatted with a representative (Actual Person) . Flashlight goes back to Amazon but I get to keep the battery. If anyone decides to return the flashlight please be sure that the representative you speak with understands that the battery is lithium Ion and what that means. They had to speak with their boss for the OK to return the flashlight. UPS does not want to ship back return lithium Ion batteries nor does USPS. You can find yourself in a big pile of beans now if you try shipping them pack.
The Nightmare of Modern Life and service people wasting your time.
Now Amazon wants me to label the return with the standard Lithium Ion warning labels even though no battery will be in the package. Over 1 hour speaking with and texting Amazon reps. I canceled the return. Anyone with the skill and knowledge to swap the emitter on the flashlight can have it for $10.00 shipped. Paypal and U.S. address only.
Lithium Ion 18650 battery or charger not included Flashlight-O rings-Manual Only
Flashlight no longer for sale. Please disregard selling offer.
Is is my limited understanding that the 219D is both a low current and low voltage LED. Please check the specs at Nichia Corps. website.
I reread the specs at Nichia and no doubt it’s due to my inability to understand what they’re presenting, but I didn’t see anything that indicated that the 219d’s were low current leds.
Download the pdf of the specs for the 219D. It states the max current for the emitter is 1.8 amps. There is a graph of voltage and current and shows what happens to the emitter at different levels of both.
Download the pdf of the specs for the 219D. It states the max current for the emitter is 1.8 amps. There is a graph of voltage and current and shows what happens to the emitter at different levels of both.
Sorry I forgot the quote.
You weren’t able to just click through the online return forms?