You can check using a camera on your phone. I know there's PWM as I already asked Hank about it. Just wondering if its bad.
If it is the same driver as in the XinTD, which I think it maybe you can check my PWM tests here
Scroll down to post #15, around 8Mhz and 37%duty!
I have one on route so I will compare and confirm
Others have measured 4200-4500hz for the Nanjg 105C. I can also detect it with my camera on low at 5% duty cycle, mostly a useless test/check as long as the eyes cannot see it (but if one struggles can see it in shower water on medium an low). I think it would be impossible for anyone to even pick anything up at 8Mhz.
My XinTD C8 that has the V10+ marked driver was one of the first batch of 25. Later batches of the light use the Nangj 105C driver.
The pic at your thread shows that you have the 105C.
Fair enough, I wasnt completely happy with the method used, I connected a XRe directly to the probe input and shone the torch on to it in a dark room. The meter is calibrated often and reliable as its used daily for machine calibration checks. Can you suggest abother method I can use?
If he didn't see it maybe it's not bad. Depends on everyone of course and even on the environment you wan to use the flashlight.
And there's the psychological factor,
The BC40 has 800Hz on low and it's a Jetbeam success but I have not seen anyone say anything about it.
There's also the Zebralights success, as measured by Selfbuilt
SC30: Lo2: 120Hz, Med2: 895Hz, Hi2: 725Hz
H31w: Lo2: 117Hz, Med2: 817Hz, H2: 672Hz
I have no experience with measuring the PWM frequency on led lights. I realize that your Fluke is calibrated and even if it would be not, it's impossible for measuring device to have such a an error. I cannot comment on that technique.
What's interesting is that all other measurements seem absolutely normal, 126Hz for the 980L ( the photos also show the PWM very well), 7Hz storbe is very common.
Haggai seems to have an interesting method, which I look forward to try, https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/1844
Yeah the Haggai idea seems ideal to try next, I also have a clamp meter so if I remove the pill and wire it up I'll take voltage on one fluke and connect the current clamp to the scopemeter. Infact I could connect it to both channels and directly compare the two test methods I think....
Never mind; the 105C uses the chip I need. Thanks!
Kevin
I just want to be sure that it is clear that the new dropin uses a driver that is blue and marked V10+. I do not know what parts are on the other side of the board.
I hope that someone can find data about the V10+.
The one I have works as advertized so far.
The new dropin does not use the Nangj 105C.
I know this is very unscientific but PWM can be easily quantified with a digital camera.
If I shine a direct drive light toward my camera at just the right angle, I get a solid vertical line. Heavy PWM can show up as long or short interupted lines and/or with long or short interuptions. As PWM decreases the lines become faster, appearing more like dots trying to merge together.
With a well regulated light, the spaces are near imperceptible and therefore, no appraent PWM to the eye. If I'm off-base, please feel free - I can take it.
almostanerdFoy
Hi Foy 
I have a simple rule about PWM.....
If I can't see it, even when waving it at the ceiling fan, then it ain't there.
Some observers must be very sensitive.
(laughing)
That's pretty much my system, too. It has to be real bad before it's an issue for me. My only light with serious PWM is the Skyline 1 . . . and it's only noticeable at the lowest setting.
Foy
Received mine today.
Notes:
-reflector has a very wide opening for the LED. LED sits still quite deep IMO.
-No PWM on High and Low, PWM detectable with bare eye on Medium. Rate possibly multiple hundred Hz, not as fast as in 105C.
-Nice and clean, V10+ driver present.
thinking of buying one of these..is the pwm better than the manafont 3 mode? I find that to be pretty bad..did you get the U2 version? how is the tint?
thanks
Would this P60 dropin work in this host?
http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-wf504b-flashlight-tube-no-led-emitter-p-4049
PWM was measured at 975Hz on the german forum
sure beats the 60 hz of the manafont drop-in lol
i'm thinking this is my first neutral drop-in..time to try it out
Yes
Thanks. Now to decide whether to get 2.5 or 3 amp. If good sense played any part in this 2.5 amp T6 3C would be the one to get or do you throw sensibility out the window and go 3 amp U2? Has anyone managed to get car parts for the wifes car put on the delivery packaging to make them think that you are not spending money on your selfish self again?