So, you want to put 2 18650’s in there? I don’t think that will fit, the led stinger is 8.41 vs 7.38 for yours, and the battery pack they have is 3 rcr123’s I believe. And, being 18 mm in diameter vs 12m, I don’t think that will work. Hopefully I understood your question correctly.
Edit: Just looked a little more, and the led stinger has 3-Cell, 3.6-Volt Nickel-cadmium sub-C battery. Could we assume Matt needs light’s stinger has the same battery pack?
So, you could get the stinger battery replacement. But, I still don’t know if the battery tubes are the same diameter, and if they connect the same in the xenon and led one.
Over at Candlepowerforums, people spend alot more on lights, so I’m sure there would be quite a few people with your light. Theres still alot over that that use incans, versus here, it seems like everyone mainly uses leds.
:bigsmile:
The subject makes one want a better light.
I had those and have given them away.
I recomend SolarForce of HK model L2M host (body only) then order a dropin.
Price is about $12.00 + $2.00 for frgt. order a lanyard or pocket clip.
The dropins get from another vendor. Mine is a 1,000 lumen. For $12.00 free fgt.
So, about $26.00 total. This unit will make one very happy and you will Bless
this forum.
Then read up on heat sinking.
The stock battery is 129.75mm (5.1 inches) long X 23.68mm (.932 inches) dia o.d.
Both +&- terminals are on top
The light tube is 23.91mm (.941 inches) dia i.d.
Inside the tube at the head their are 2 springs. A small dia for + and large dia for -
It looks like their is an extra 1/4” of length inside the tube.
18650s are 65.1 mm (2.563 inches) long by 18.27mm (.719 inches) dia o.d.
So 2) 18650s would be 5.126” long. That’s .026” longer than stock and .213 smaller in dia. That would give me space to make a my own battery using 2) 18650s.
Worst case 18490s are 49.25mm ( 1.939 inches) so stacked would be 3.878” long.
1.222 inches shorter than stock.
Would this be beneficial? Series? Parallel? Or don’t reinvent the wheel and buy OEM?
It would definitely have higher capacity if it was successful. The original one had a capacity of 3000 mah but yours could have 6200 if you used 3100 mah batteries. The problem is the stock charger wouldn't be compatible.
Since the original was designed for 3 nimhs in series it most likely charges until -dv/dt which would overcharge a lion since lions don't have the voltage drop at full charge.
So I think the game plan is to use the malkoff drop in and a 3k mah replacement battery.
Doing 2) 18650s is doable but would require removing the batteries to charge or modding a charger also. Just to get 6k mah.
I think 3k will be fine for me.
Any suggestions on the battery? I found this but I don’t know if the supplier can be trusted. http://www.batteryjunction.com/stinger-nimh-3000.html
Re: Streamlight Stinger Upgrade Options?
Originally Posted by h2xblive
Has anyone made a Stinger batter pack with R/C car SC cells? I believe the stock Stinger battery packs uses 3, SC cells around 1800 mah. This gives around 50-65 minutes of runtime, but shouldn’t 3300, 4600, or 5000 high end SC cells gives A LOT more runtime and slightly more brightness? Even if the newer, higher capacity cells lost 50% of their capacity over a few months (from high self discharge), they’d still well outperform the stock Stinger battery pack.
What’s stopping people from doing this?
I started doing this in 1998 with Sanyo SC-R cells (a whooping 1700MAH’s, but were really durable cells). Currently, I just made a stick with 4200MAH sub-c’s for a co-worker. Note, though, that the 4200’s tend to be a bit fatter. My favorite compromise are 3600MAH NiMH cells, as the charge time in the slow charger isn’t too bad, and the fast charger will work if it’s reset once, after it shuts itself off.
The easiest way to do it is to buy a R/C 6 cell pack, and split the two sticks. That way, you’ll have two sticks of three sub-c cells already soldered/spot welded together. Makes it a lot easier.
For the ring/ribbon that places the negative end around the positive end of the stick, I use old sticks as parts. I’ve tried making my own with thin braided wire, but it’s a PITA.
After soldering on the ring, i slip the cells into a cardboard tube and shrinkwrap it all.
For Surefire B90’s (for the 8AX and 9AX) it’s the same, except the SF lights need a nipple on the positive end. I use the small round nipple from a 9 volt battery connector (available at Radio Shack). I solder the round nipple to the positive end of the cell, and it works fine in the SF lights and chargers.
Scaru’s post said the oem bat was nimh. The old one I have is nicad.
The battery I’m looking at is splitting a rc 5000mah nimh
6 cell. Each cell is 1.2v 5000mah so I should be at 3.6v 5000mah. Right?
I’m just trying to make sure it will work with the stock charger.
