I think you would not have to do anything different. I’d try it first with the resistor left in. If you need more oomphalumens, try it with the resistor shorted or paralleled/replaced with a lower value resistor.
But, with a red LED you won’t know if you’ve come down with a case of Ebola and are peeing blood… J)
The same problem was studied in depth by Australia’s greatest scientist, Karl Kruszelnicki. This is a man with degrees in mathematics, biomedical engineering, medicine and surgery.
His solution was so simple, yet so radical & controversial that people were left questioning what it meant to be a man.
Here is it, option 5).
5) Sit down to take a piss.
Chuckle. I found one that will switch 110v.
But I wouldn’t want it installed anywhere near plumbing or water.
The description includes this gem:
“Connection: single-wire system (two lines, the ordinary manual switch wiring Needless cloth one line, without any peripheral accessories, save money trouble).”
should the resistor be swapped with something else if I want a bit more power to the LED?
I want to do this build as a starter thing, but would prefer more of “whole small bathroom” light
edit: I’d probably need to incorporate a photoresistor then too, huh?
The module can only drive a small amount of current. To drive a bigger load, you would need to use the module to drive a transistor which then drives the load. A logic-level FET should work well and you probably would need need a photo-resistor. The photo-resistor would just keep the light from coming on if there is already light in the room. It probably does not matter if it does… it probably would not happen too many times a day.
gotcha, thanks buddy! I appreciate that
. cat deterrent video
That’s very nice! steal the red activity LED signal from a motion detector board;
use that signal to operate a 12V relay switching power to a door lock actuator, all 12V parts borrowed off a vehicle.
And, because for some people (particularly babies and old folks) “white” light at night may be worth avoiding
> 3) turn on the light… and blind yourself and never get back to sleep
“Even dim light can interfere with a person’s circadian rhythm and melatonin secretion.
A mere eight lux—a level of brightness exceeded by most table lamps and
about twice that of a night light—has an effect ….”
Looking at those Ebay listings, there are 2 different pictures with the same “501” model number:
All the boards have cylindrical black things on 3 corners.
The 4th corner is either unpopulated, or that spot has a yellow (or rarely, black) rectangular thing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjust-IR-Pyroelectric-Infrared-PIR-Motion-Sensor-Detector-Module-HC-SR501-NEW-/321342324538?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ad17ebf3a
http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mTv6uMCdZEJM4w-A4H1p_xg.jpg
That fourth corner black rectangle thing is not on the board pictured in the original post, and is shown on the board shown in #36 — it’s for jumpers? And did they get figured out?
You are the WIZ-ard of lighting! I want to try this at the foot of the bed so I can keep from kicking the foot of the bed on my trip to and from the toilet at night. Cool
It needed to be said.
Not nearly as easy when you have NPT. At least when you stand up, you don’t need to wrestle it under the seat.
needs more class like this:
Well, if you could hide a UV emitter under the rim (so as not to toast your retinas) then the urine would glow….
I was hoping for a laser powered model with targeting rings for true aiming accuracy!
KuoH
There are a lot of good ideas in this thread, I hope Nitecore is listening.
I could see the Uranusfire brand getting a leg up on the competition with some of this information.
I have the elongated models… Toto to be exact…
Uh, could you give us a photo of the connections? Your first picture has the wires hidden behind the back of the board, and the second picture doesn’t show the wires connected.
I got what seems to be the same thing — blue board instead of green, different brand names on the big black cylinders, but I don’t see the labels you describe seeing on yours.
Your first pic, “put it all together and get” is what I need, but turned around to show the board to see where the wires connect.
Sorry. Even the most obvious stuff isn’t obvious to me sometimes. I could guess … not smart when hooking up electricity.
I’m guessing the connection points are the three long pins standing up at the bottom edge, on the 2nd photo.
Above the left pin there’s a printed rectangle with two silver solder points, nothing in between them.
Diagonally up to the left a ways there’s another printed rectangle with two empty holes for a through-board solder connection (one of these is obscured on the other side by the plastic dome, so I’m ruling those out.
this looks like the same board, with wiring explained: Raspberry Pi GPIO Sensing: Motion Detection | The Pi Hut
but it’s not simple enough to explain where to connect the dang wires yet.
Battery box hot to + pin
“out” pin goes to the correct side of the LED to make it light up
other side of the LED goes to the ground pin
Where does the negative wire from the battery box go?
Oh. To ground also: How to Build a Motion Detector Circuit