Most likely either Bad Tail-Cap switch or cell isn’t being held tightly enough by spring tensions. Does it flicker if you set it down and let it lie still?
Is it in all modes or just med/low? Might be PWM.. or you should stop shaking the light. :P
My best guess is also what PPTK said.
If removing the tailcap and placing a piece of wire shorting out the tail cap does fix it then try making a small spacer to place in the battery tube. If that fixes it then you need a longer spring.
[quote=PilotPTK]
I”m thinking switch as well. Yes, it flickers when laying still. I have stretched spring already but will try & stretch a little more……….maybe add a magnetic spacer. Thanks. I”ll post findings.
Keith
Easy enough to diagnose, just short the battery -ve to the body and see if it still flickers. If it doesn't you've got a bad switch.
Not PMW. I just tried it and it is working perfect. But as I stated it is a intermittent issue.
Keith
Not sure I understand what you mean scaru with the wire/shorting. Could you describe? Now it is flickering again. DRATS! This is the lighthound version and I have the Balder version coming (any day now) at which time I shall try the tail cap from it. I also tried a magnetic spacer. Stretched spring, cleaned it good. Before hitting save I checked and it is working (this is how it does). Thanks guys.
Keith
Ok, what I was trying to say is first just use a piece of wire connecting battery to the host so as to rule out the switch. If that does fix it. Ie no flickering then it is the switch to figure out whether it is the spring or some internal part, you place a spacer in there so you can be sure the spring has good contact. If that fixes it you need a longer spring if it doesn’t then it is the switch. I hope that helps.
I understand. Tried spacer no worky. Just eliminated switch with paper clip and still no good. So it”s in the head then? If no other ideas then its RMA I guess. At least it is Lighthound I”m dealing with meaning no hassle quick turn around. I still hate it! Thanks scaru.
Keith
Yep, RMA Time. I’m very surprised that it’s not the tail…
The problem is sometimes it will do it all the time & then it “fixes” itself & will have to be left on for a few minutes or more till it starts flickering. You know how it goes………something does not work till you take it in then it works. I”m concerned they will turn it on & off a couple of times & say nothing is wrong. I am going to call LH & explain it in detail for them. It is working fine as I type (I mean peck). The one I have is the LH version with the head up clip. I also have one coming with the head down clip from IO (been 3 wk). If I had purchased this one from China, I would not even send it back. Before I sent this post I went outside with my dog & left the light on &…………….you guessed it, working perfect! Oh, the humanity! I love this little light & just hope this is not the down fall of this “budget” light. I am gonna hit send & its still working perfect. BTW, thanks all for trying to help. I just turned it off/on & yep…………it started flickering LMAO.
Keith
A quick video clip will explain everything, even if the light decided to be OK after returned.
When looking at data sheets, it’s very easy misunderstand things. I spend months trying to figure stuff out so that I can ask relevant questions and still I look stupid. For LED current vs voltage graphs a specific current drawn does not correspond to a precise voltage drop but an average of the type of led measured(more like guidelines). This why led drivers are current regulated. A small difference in voltage applied can result in a large difference in current drawn if a voltage regulator is used where if a current regulator is used, a small variation in current output of the driver remains a small variation. You cannot use voltage drop across the emmiter to guage output. It may not be meaningless, but it is irrelevant.
Did I pass the quiz?