It's nice. Unlike some throwers, it has enough spill that it should still be useful for walking without needing another light to illuminate the few feet in front of you. I should get mine this week.
Will get my DQG triple today. But beamshot comparison has to wait. We are getting about a foot snow here today. And the wind… 
Getting rough here too!I’m about 10 miles south of Hanover PA.It’s been snowing hard here since 8 this morning.I hope that the mail gets through, my triple that Richard built is supposed to be here.Hopefully I can use it tonight while I shovel.-Rick
Good luck!
1/22/14, Hi RAW, did you get yours? How do you like it?
I got my DQG triple last night. Like it a lot too. Here I will tell how I feel about the light, nothing scientific.
The light itself without battery is very light-weighted. It is really small, especially length wise. It has about the same length as my solarforce L2m in shorty mode. Build quality is above average of budget lights, maybe on par with convoy.
Mine is 3C version. Beam is beautiful neutral white with a bit rosy tint, not yellow or green at all. Unfortunately I accidentally dedomed one of the XPG2s with the optics when I played with it for five minutes. :_( But the dedomed emitter is working just fine, only with a slightly different tint.
The real low mode is just great, truly around 3-4 lumens. The mode spacing is almost perfect in my mind with 4 lumens, 150 lumens, 500 lumens and the hidden turbo of 1400 lumens.
The side click switch feels not bad. The click is clear. It does wiggle a bit inside the button holder when I touch it gently. But it is not noticeable in operation.
A few small cons.
The time to hold down the button to turn off the light is 3 seconds, way too long, half a second or even one second will be much better.
The button itself is a bit too small, and the groove around it is not easy to feel in the dark.
The edge of the 2-3 fins (cut to make the groove for button) at the button is not rounded, very sharp.
PWM is high, but can be higher. Though it is not annoying me at all but I can still notice it from time to time, especially in low mode. I don’t have a way to measure, but it feels similar to PWM of the old ITP i1, and lower frequency than QLite drivers. Maybe a couple of thousand Hz?
Thanks!
Sesgum
Hey Sesgum,
I like the light a lot!I ran down a Panny2900 and a Sam20R last night using it(playing) both inside and off the back deck.I’m glad I went with the 4.4 amp high.Even at that current the light is impressive…and gets plenty hot!The only thing I can think of to make the light better would be a pocket clip so I can carry it like my s-mini.
How did you guys fare in the storm?The wind last night didn’t let me stay outside for long!-Rick
Good 3 hours shoveling last night and this morning. Ouch, my back! :Sp
We only recieved about 7 inches of snow but the drifts closed school today and now they have a two hour delay in the morning.How am I supposed to get to work and make flashlight money if I am stuck home with the kid?I wonder if Richard would let me start a line of credit at his store?
Mine just arrived along with some 20R's. All four 20R's arrived at 3.67V. One is charging now in an oLight MC1, also from RMM. Normally I'd use a faster charger, but I want to see what the MC1 terminates at. So in ~4 hours, I'll finally be able to play with my new light.
Did anyone else get their RMM S3 triple too?
remarkable patience!
I’m going to try a Convoy S2 DIY triple…
Parts inbound
1) Is there a parts & supplies list and assembly instructions on how to build your own S3 triple?
2) What is the price difference ? Probably not much, but there’s nothing more satisfying than the pride of building your own light, right?
A list/instructions from Richard would come in handy over and above simply looking at the obvious - leds, driver, optic, etc… The reason for this is that, for example, I didn’t know Richard went to the trouble of adding an extra copper MCPCB for extra heatsinking, so I wouldn’t have added this extra part to my parts list if he hadn’t mentioned it.
Pretty much anything I tell you about the S3 won't be relevant anymore since they have changed the light to a new design without a pill. For the first 9 months or so, I would fill the stock S3 pill with lead-free solder, sand it flat, then sand the mask off of a 3XP board and reflow two of them together to get the correct spacing. My wife and neighbors got sick of me running the drill press and belt sander at 2 AM so I had some custom pills machined (I am obviously hoarding my remaining stock so that I can use up those pills, they weren't cheap!) I haven't tried to build one of the new ones yet--I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
ok, thank you Richard. I can see your wife’s point of view. 2am? LOL !
For the new S3, I am hoping you will eventually offer a kit, kinda like Survival Laser does for their S4. I guess it will depend on the availability of the individual parts.
What about the Roche F12?
It has similar external dimensions as the Convoy S3 but looks like it has a no-pill/internal-shelf design like the new S3 so I guess the same modification problems exist with this host too.
BTW Richard, are you designing a new mod around the new no-pill S3? Did you decide on looking for another host instead?
I may switch to those eventually, but truth be told I have enough of these S3 hosts to last for a long time. When the change over was coming I bought all I could get my hands on.
That’s good news!
When are you planning to start the next run?
On your next run of custom triples, are you going to offer any new options (you already offer a huge bunch of options of course!) such as:
1) Tail button color (black, green, etc.)
2) Screw-on clip
3) Heat sink types (copper, regular lead, etc.)
Thank you for bringing the custom triple to our BLF community. We appreciate it very much!
RMM, just one more question about your custom S3.
You usually have an option to pick a custom driver with custom-set modes for an extra $1. Does this mean we can pick the percent power for each level?
For example, if someone wants their first level to be around 2-3 lumens (not sub-lumen since that is too low for me), what percent power level would that be? Assuming the light at 100% power is 1000 lumens OTF, that would be about 2/1000 = 0.002 = 0.2% ?
Thank you.
The percents get a little weird at the low end.
It’s actually a value of 0 to 255, where 255 is 100%. But in general, the lowest usable value is like 3 or so, representing moon mode, and this value varies depending on the driver and emitter and even the cell voltage.
Once it’s high enough to be stable, the percents go in increments of about 100.0% / 252.0, or ~0.4%.
On some drivers the lowest mode is higher, like 14 lm (on a FET-only triple at 3300 lm max), while on others the lowest stable level is much lower. With a FET+1 driver, the low modes are based on the single 7135 chip, which tends to max out at about 150 lumens… so the step size is like 0.6 lumens.
Anyway, as a rough estimate, the lowest possible value will be about 0.4% of the total lumens, unless it’s a two-channel driver and then it’s 0.4% of the lower of the two channels.
The power levels definitely don't scale linearly, and furthermore your eyes definitely don't see the lumen differences linearly. I get a lot of people wanting mode levels like this 1% - 3% - 5%- 20% - 50% - 70% - 80% - 100% and then once they get the light or driver they realize that between many of the mode changes they can't even visually tell that the light switched modes.
I can guess reasonably well what mode levels will work and how well from a lot of experience, but it is not an exact science.