Possible host for Flood + Throw? (MF03 style)

I was referring to the switch bezel and rubber boot, isn’t that what you meant by requiring threads? (maybe you meant threads behind for a retaining ring for the switch pcb)

Yes the switches are on a pcb, but of course can be separate and wired the driver board, so once you have the switch bezel and boot installed just need to devise a method of mounting/securing the switch board behind the hole, I’ve read where that’s been done with hot glue, you’d have to get creative! Don’t know where you’d buy a switch bezel and boot though.

You did write “To do it the right way” but that may not apply to this :slight_smile:

Bottom line is if there’s a will there’s a way, gotta think out of the box, my idea of building this wasn’t necessarily to make something that’s refined, sleek or that doesn’t look modified or home built, it could have toggle switches mounted on it for all I care.

If two separate drivers could fit it maybe use two regular clicky/pushbutton switches and clicky drivers.

Yes this could be complicated, maybe impossible, but I usually have the mindset that anything’s possible if you’re determined enough.

(JK about the toggle switches :stuck_out_tongue: )

I have yet to see anybody do a really nice job adding an e-switch to a light. They typically are not pretty and/or not waterproof. I think my standards are a bit high. I like nice integration and feel plus backlighting.

Thsee are the two best examples I found (I researched this in the past).

Thanks for those e-switch posts those are interesting! And ya they look pretty rough!

When I was thinking about retaining / re-purposing the ring control I didn’t think about mode changes, but maybe the flood array could run off the first ON position, then twisting back and forth from off could change modes for that array. The center led (throw) could be always 100%. at the second ON position, and both together at the third ON position. But I’m sure that would take some doing!

Sometimes I’m a bit of a dreamer on things but it keeps my mind working :slight_smile:
I’m curious what BlueSwordM had in mind for this, (post #9) but I think this answered a lot for his question.

Keep in mind that the software gurus here on blf pretty much stick to the attiny style mcu’s which have 8 legs. Those won’t work for a ring style switch. For that you might need a different style mcu that has 12 or 16 legs. Nobody here makes software for those mcu’s.

Ideally I’d like to find someone who is familiar with how the ring switches work. I have only heard they are a major pain to mod if at all. I can’t find any info on them.

Yeah. 16 pin QFNs, comparer to 8 pin QFNs are much harder to program and solder to.