Where’s the best place to get dogfarts these days? I could be tempted to mod a balanced thrower.
So I made new holes to fit L4Ps 3030 white flat board…but now the switch comes in the way of one of the screws. I was thinking of using the original screw holes and making new ones for he wires which is what I should’ve done first but I kinda messed them up so the screws just fall out. I guess I could find new screws that fit.
The main purpose of the screws is anti-rotation while you’re assembling it, pressure from the reflector holds the mcpcb down onto the shelf well already. As long as the l4p board is the same thickness as the original you should be absolutely fine with just one screw.
Arrow has them but now that they don’t do their free shipping anymore there may be a better, Europe based seller for you.
So the new driver doesn’t fit…it’s just loose. Do I need some kind of glue to hold it in place? Also I noticed that the wires are a tiny bit thinner and one of the components is different. I think it’s the FET.
Isn’t it supposed to be loose? It’s the same diameter as the first one right? Once you screw the battery tube on it will be held firmly in place. Or you can add a dab of glue.
I would not worry about the differences. The FET should still be fine, the company that makes the driver probably bought a new batch of FETs which have a different number on them.
Are you measuring the wire or the insulation? Insulation thickness can vary, but it has no effect on the performance. If the wire is thinner gauge it can add a little more resistance. This can be good or bad depending on what you want. Thinner wire can slightly reduce the amp draw on the LED while a thicker wire can slightly increase the amp draw.
Yeah the driver will be loose (stock is glued) but will be held in place by the battery tube.
It’s pretty loose. I left the wires a bit long so the original LED could be put back if needed. The battery tube will hold it so i guess I don’t really need to worry though. The wire does seem slightly thinner but I’m installing a white flat so that can only be a good thing.
After playing with the flimsy switch for quite a bit, i finally decided it’s time to replace the old head with the replacement one i recieved from Neal. Too bad it’s not NW as original is, but CW. I LOVE nw tint on my original head! Is there an easy way to swap the led from one head to another?
He sent the wrong tint? Bummer.
The only hard part is loosening the bezel. I think they glue them. It might require a blow dryer/heat gun and strap wrenches to loosen it.
Thank you for reply.
I managed to open the bezel with two strap wrenches. I desoldered the leads and replaced the LED. I am really happy i was able to replace it since I won the tint lottery with original one!.
Any signs of glue on the thread? I might be remembering wrong and they just assembled them really tight.
Mine weren’t glued but were extreeemely tight.
There were no signs of loctite on the replacement head, but original one had a few drops. It wasn’t exactly hard to open.
Does anyone know of a clip that fits the GT mini?
Not that I’d keep it clipped to my pocket but I like a clip for switch locating by feel…