But wouldn’t the heat also weaken the superglue that I’d put in the hole to hold the torx?
there are really awesome glue solution
I doubt the anodising would be affected at these rather low temperatures, but have no knowledge of what it is. Certainly military grade HA3 would not be…
I would use an oven, for precise consistency.
Personally I would take it to 150C, hoping it is all lead free solder (perilously close to liquidus of tin-lead) but not much above rated temperatures of LEDs. Even if I melted some solder I could fix it up. As soon as I had the screw loose I would cool it down ASAP with a fan.
My worry would be the MCPCB, not knowing what temperature the pre-preg laminates, if used, were rated for. Not familiar with the construction. If polyimide based, no worries.
Yes, superglue is not much good at best of times, nevermind under heat. If you used instead JB Weld (I think it is rated to rather high temperatures) you might do better. Since the screw is even more wrecked, I think you are on your last chance. Perhaps ignore my advice.
Or just ask for a new head. Maybe do that anyway.
When my son died back in ’05 I got a granite slab to make a bench at the cemetery. One end of this slab wasn’t cut like I liked so I got tools to cut and polish the granite to my desire. Afterwards, there was this piece of 2” thick x 1 1/2” wide granite I’d cut off. So, playing with the polishing discs on a Makita grinder, I glued a 1” square bolt head to the end of the granite with a fast setting JB Weld (Water Weld, Stick) Literally within about 15 minutes I mounted the bolt in my drill press and set the granite spinning, used the Makita grinder to cut it into a round column and then polished it… all the work pressing sideways on the spinning piece only held to the bolt with JB Weld. When I got it round and polished, I put a cut off wheel on the grinder and cut the bolt off at the glue joint.
The stuff is super strong! I have this highly polished piece of granite to remember how well it works.
The piece of Texas Pink Granite…
The end that was glued, I’d cut an X into the granite with a diamond blade before glueing to give the JB Weld a purchase point. Used the diamond bit to take the rectangular piece to round, then used polishing wheels on the grinder …
It has been said that I am stubborn. :sunglasses:
I was lucky and got my reflector screw out, first try this eve. Now I feel bad bout even posting it after reading what Sledgstone there is goin through... 
the problem with heating the screw on the reflector is it rests on the MCPCB which does an ecellent job conducting the heat away
You likely need a small gas burner to get it hot enough
:+1:
This ‘glue’ is almost frightening! I’d rather wear gloves using it…
Just looks like superglue plus baking soda. Well known. Google it. Try it yourself. And extravagant demonstration.
That said, might be just the trick for this problem. It’s a lot lot better than superglue alone, and is a good filler.
Are the stock switch LEDs 0603? I want to order a new color and I don’t think I’ve seen any mention of their size. Just djozz’s amazing video where everything looks easy 
Yes 0603.
There was talk about pink leds at some point and someone mentioned this AE shop:
https://fr.aliexpress.com/store/group/SX-0603-SMD-LED/1758868_501534034.html
No, they’re 0805s but 0603s fit too with some solder stretching. I put a blue 0603 on one side of mine with no problem.
No idea why it became D3, but that is what I see looking back at photos of my prototype.
100 uF across C2 … we do not have a part number for D3, so own risk 
. That said, those diodes should be rated minimum 0.1 A continuous and they can usually take at least 10x that in surge. Surge here would be < 0.9 A, fading below 0.1 A in around 1 ms.
FET part number added on the schematic in post 617.
Sounds OK, couldn’t be more than 1A peak, through the (100 mA ?) diode, just worried it might be a bit fragile. Who knows what’s on the board ? If it blows eventually, I’ll just put in a better one.
A bit off topic but do we know if the o-rings are silicone or another material?
I usually assume most lights to have some form of rubber o-rings and not silicone. In my novice experience silicone o-rings usually are not as dark black like rubber and have a sort of see-thru quality to them. I’ve been using Super Lube multi-purpose synthetic grease with no issues. Once I have used petroleum-based grease that was marketed as” silicone,” but it made some of my rubber o-rings swell up and I had to boil them so I could get them to fit after they swelled. So far no issues like that after using Super Lube on my Q8 or any of my other lights. If you haven’t already completely clean the Q8’s threads on the battery tube, and in the receiving ends, then grease it to make it feel 20 times better.
FYI some worst case experimental experience with this little schottkies.
I modified several EDCs with Banggood BLF X6 drivers to OTSM with 2 of this 100 uF caps in parallel behind the schottky without any current limiting resistor in the circuit. Since they are clickys the caps get far more often loaded than in lights with momentaries (where this only happens on powering up). I’m using this EDCs heavily for more than 9 months now, no failure so far.
When testing the Q8 with bumps I first tried a 1000 uF cap in order to see if it helps at all - since I don’t know how long the voltage interrupts last. No damage here either.
Next (and last) try was the mentioned 100 uF cap, so I don’t know if even smaller caps are sufficient.
Hi guys,
I have a rough bit on the bezel of my Q8 that cuts skin and rips clothes. It was suggested to me to maybe try to sandpaper it smooth, but I am worried it may scratch up the bezel and look ugly.
Suggestions or comments?
You can buy very fine grits of sandpaper at an auto supply store. They use them for wet sanding paint, but you can use it for your bezel. Start with the finest grit they offer and see if it has enough bite to smooth the edges. If not, go down a grit and have at it. with sandpaper in the 1000, 1500 or 2000 grits, they will leave a really nice finish on the stainless steel. Good luck.
I just realized that the sandpaper grits may be different in Australia. Do a bit of research to see what’s comparable to 2000 grit in the US.
My wife’s sunwayman c22c had been on in her bag, the side led
It got so hot the lens was melted to some red fabric
I used a file to get it off and then my whetstone to make it nice and smooth
But of course that was plastic lens not stainless, but do you have a knife sharpening set?
I have one which I would use for it makes a wide range of angles possible
+1 - I've used fine grit paper on SS bezels to take some of the sharpness off - came out good. I recently got paper as high as 2000 in Home Depot.