Same for me. I don’t know if I find time in this year, to swap the LEDs.
I have already made a first mod with this Emitter, as written in “What did you mod today”. Thats interesting because of the diffusor foil to avoid the donut hole.
I will order “DC-Fix Milky” the next days for forther tests. Milky is realy great for max Lumen but not so great for max Lux, as discussed in german TLF: Diffusorfolien Test | Taschenlampen Forum
Output went up a bit. By around 1,000 lumens with the Luxeon V.
If the LH351D had been out at the time I would have just put those in instead tbh. They’re cheaper, higher CRI, just as or more bright somehow. Just the best of everything.
In a Q8, the LH351D would probably be really nice. It makes a nice, even beam and it would probably make the light a little less throwy.
Or XP-L HI should look really nice too, for those who want more throw.
I like the XP-L HD 3D it comes with, but in the Q8 it has a pretty strong rainbow effect. Needs some DC-Fix or a less rainbow-prone emitter to make the beam look more consistent.
Luxeon V’s are extremely difficult to reflow on the stock board because the footprint is 4x4 mm instead of 3.5x3.5. So you need a different ledboard, that can be found at led4power.com
I have a Q8 with Luxeon V leds and one with LH351D leds.
I second the recommendation for Luxeon V leds, very nice tint, very good beam and very good output (over 7000 lumen with bypassed tailsprings).
With the 4000K 90CRI LH351D leds the output is less (under 5000), the tint is less (bit greenish) but if you leave the white wall behind it makes all colours come out much better.
To get more output over the stock XP-L’s this may be the nicest option. Another option would be the XP-L2 but you will give in on tint and beam quality (you will get a fairly ugly greenish corona). And yet another option, if you like cool white tints, is getting the led4power board and use SST-40 leds.
Btw, talking about “straight swap” , both using Luxeon V leds and SST-40 leds will require adapting the led centering rings to the larger led size. For the Luxeon V’s to fit I reamed out the stock centering rings quite a bit, a tedious job with a hand reamer on tiny pieces of plastic that provide no grip (times 4 ). The SST-40 leds are even larger and may require even further reaming or a different solution. The holes in the Q8 reflector are not standard size, so none of the various center pieces that are separately for sale will fit without adaptation (you could ream the Q8 reflector holes to fit one of the standard sizes, that is in fact easier than reaming tiny plastic centerpieces).
When I did my SST-40 mod, the Q8 reflector didn’t even fit properly over the emitter packages without reaming. They might have fit singly, but there was enough slop in the reflow of the emitters on the board, and perhaps the boring of the reflector that it wasn’t possible to get it to fit over all four at once without opening the holes up.
There’s no Q8 host sofar and I’m not sure about the demand for such a host, it will not be that cheaper than a full light.
The luxeon V mod is a while ago and I’m sure I did everything to get the resistence down, but the most significant measure is still bypassing the springs. I must have cleaned and tinned the screw-connections to the battery tube at the tailboard, and probably shortened the ledwires a bit. I think the stock ledwires were already 18AWG, but if not I changed to 18 AWG.
Here are 2 new pictures comparing stock XP-L LED with and without DC-Fix. https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/albums/blf-q8.2372/
All Pictures (Luxeon MZ and XP-L) in automatic mode and with different output levels of the flashlight. But you will see the differences in beam pattern.
Stock lens about 6100 Lumen and DC-Fix lens about 6000 Lumen at startup. … with different batteries as on my former measurements. And I did Turbo-Beamshots between the todays measurements (with and without DC-Fix).
Cool. You did all that as a first mod? I’m still not up to reflashing mcu’s. Lol
I liked the 5000K LH351D myself until I compared them to the 5000K Nichia 319AT, then they looked a bit green/yellow. The only problem is the 319AT doesn’t put out the high lumens like the LH351D do. Decisions decisions.