No high fence needed, but yeah, something like that. I’d been modding lights for 3 or 4 years already and had quite a collection of stuff when Old-Lumens (Justin) asked me if I’d buy his kit. So I got all his stuff to go with all my stuff, got so much I’m just now getting to the point where I remember having things. It’s fun being able to hack something together on the fly, having so many bits and pieces to do it with. 
Thanks for the link to the Tom E .PNG in the Samsung 30Q. That’s where I learned of the .png.
I am looking for the link in this thread for any chance of reading about discussion on tail cap current. Specifically, the chart gives outputs at 20+ amps when 30Q spec says max 10 amps. Wouldn’t 20+ amps shorten the battery life and/or overheat?
[Correction]
Max continuous discharge is 20 amps.
What a relief.
[On Q8]
Only remaining reservation is whether Q8 is too thick for my hand.
Small Sun ZY-T08 is tad too thick for my hand.
20 amps is the current going from the batteries to the led. There are four batteries so the current is shared equally between them, 5 amps is no problem for the batteries that are being recommended.
I do like parallel cells - share'n the load 
That totally escaped me :person_facepalming:
Hi. I am 221 and 222 on the list.
Please put me down for 3 more units……………………………. Total of 5
Thanks for all of your hard work on this project.
Regards
Slow
I’m on the list for one, but don’t know why there is a question mark after my name, ( number 136 ) i definitely want one, maybe two.
I’d like to be added to the list for 2 please.
Thank you!!
list updated
pm groups updated till entry 1275
Count me in for one!
Yeah will do!
Welcome to BLF!
Just for the sake of reference, cells in series also share the load.
Although total output would be higher due to less losses. So technically they could have less load on them if you have a way to regulate the power.
Can you link to some more info on this, I know about voltage and capacity
(series, doubles the voltage at same capacity
and
parallel doubles the capacity at same voltage)
cant seem to find info about amps for these two scenarios
Series : Amps remain the same
Parallel : Amps add up together
There was a thread on here last year that explained it pretty good. Without an understanding of electronics it is very hard to understand the intricacies of the current / voltage / wattage relationship.
The very basic version is that Voltage is very easy to deal with (well, within reason). It does not put much stress on components and is easy to transmit. This is why power companies use hundreds of thousands of volts to transmit power. Voltage itself is virtually immune to resistance in a circuit (this gets complicated because it is impossible to have an active voltage without some current flowing but that doesn’t matter for what we are talking about)
Current (aka, Amps) is hard to deal with. Current is almost exclusively what interacts with resistance. So the more current you have, the more effect any resistance in the system will come into play (aka, the hotter things will get and the more voltage will be lost to that resistance). Generally speaking 10-15A is considered really high current, your household wiring generally doesn’t support more then this.
Wattage is the total amount of work being done. You can have 10 amps x 4 voltages and you end up with 40 Watts of power or you can have 10 volts x 4 amps and still get 40 watts.
Now how does this apply to flashlights? Well basically take the mega M6 that RMM made. He was getting between 40-50A of current in that and needed massive wires to the point he could barely close the driver cavity to handle it. That much current means that even tiny amounts of resistance will equal large voltage drops (look up ohms law). Not to mention all that power wasted as heat in the driver and wires that is also heating everything up and making it less reliable.
Total power for this light is : ~45A x ~3.5V = ~155W
I plan to build my own Mega M6 actually but I will be doing mine with a 4s1p cell setup & 4s3p LED setup. With this setup I would only need 11A to reach the same output. That is 1/4 the current that the mega M6 was getting and thus all the losses will also be 1/4 as much. This means I will get more total voltage to the LED’s and the rules of forward voltage means I should see a fair bump in total power.
I could reach the same total power at : ~11A x ~14V = 155W
or in In my case total power should be higher due to less losses, I expect around 15A depending on what LED’s I use : ~15A x ~14v = 210W
The added benefit is that I can use much thinner and easier to work with wires. For example 20AWG would be perfectly fine for a 4S light but would be silly for a 1S light.
If you take this even further we could run it at say 240V you would only need 0.65A to power the light, this could be handled by a 28awg wire and still get us 155W easily.
This is why Tesla runs hundreds of volts in their cars, voltage is much easier to deal with.
ah so with different wiring and series each cell would have to work less hard in series giving about the same runtimes.
well I prefer parallel then, just so cool to run something with empty spaces 
Hi just wanted to make sure, if we are listed for 2 lights we only need to be on the mass PM list once right?
Well, like I said above, running them in series will give you a bit longer runtime and/or more power output due to less losses. Although power is power. Each cells has ~13 Watt hours and thats what you will get out of them. The question is what will that power be doing? lighting up the LED or heating up the circuit?
Although when you are talking about 15-20A of total current it is not nearly as big of a deal as talking about 40-50A. Once you go much bigger then 15-20A things start getting much more difficult.
I give in :disappointed: please add me to the list!
Yes correct!
TA, despite have series lights (and when starting with flashlights I thought I never wanted those for safety reasons) and using them daily, I still do not like it very much.
Also I know you are going to say safety ia not a real concern and you’ve said often you charge lots of cells at the same time parallel and do not mind a voltage difference, I feel different about that and make sure that with every charging cycle the top and bottom cells swap place in my S70/L6/S70s (the ones I really use)
For the GT I plan on using 1 set of 4 cells and here too move them one position up every charge to they wear as even as possible and get the same load every four charging cycles.
Big big fan of parallel setup bit that could come from the sheer joy of being able to leave spaces empty, maybe just too often had too many toys not work for missing 1 of 4 AAs when I was a kid 
Deeply satisfying to use less then possible, despite knowing how it works still feels like cheating the device