That’s quite a beast !
40 mins on high is not what i’ll be using it for, but good to see they test to the extreme.
did they also put the light with a nice bump on the table to see if the LEDs already melted themselfes?
color change on the MCPCB is over 300°C
what do you mean?
dfference between LED and tube is logical, the LED is the heat source and the body and tube shed heat so will not reach the same temp
also after a while the cells begin to sag so th temps go down.
I suppose they dont have abilities to measure led temperature and we should read “PCB temp” instead of “LED temp”.
There is no reason for such difference. PCB is DTP, PCB place is well maching, shelf is very thick, heat flux trough flashlight body is no so big to have 80 degrees difference with 60W power transfer. We have several discussions in different threads with themal resistance calculations, 80 degrees difference can be achieved with bad pcb that have thick insolation layer or made from fr4.
P.S. I may mistake if they changed one or several leds to powerful resistors, this may be answer how do they know led temperature (or think that they know it 
).
I like printed manuals and also the enclosed cheat sheet because Internet isn’t always available everywhere. There are plenty of places around here in the foothills where your cellphone won’t get any signal under normal conditions and it’s not unusual to lose home-based internet for awhile during and after a storm. Those of us who need help with reading small print will have that on hand or you can get someone with younger eyes to help out 
Cost per light? Gotta be the cheapest component involved. Delays? Not when TF will have an in-house printing department. So I can’t see any reason to complain about these but of course someone will always find something to complain about 
Still not getting email messages on watched threads reliably here, so I have to log in to see what’s happening. And that may not be a bad thing since I then get to see what else is going on here You can often turn a ’bad’ thing into a good one with just a slight change of perspective!
Phil
Was the thinking here that people would look on the Internet while out in the woods? No, no. I would look it up on your phone and take a screen shot of the manual. Then no Internet is required. Plus you can zoom in on the picture to make the small text easier to read.
Manual and cheat sheet are available online for download and such
A decent manual in box is professional and can be handy, besides TF is very much OK with it
Excellent news Miller! So it’ll run an hour without fail, gets hot enough to help with the cooled coffee, and we can still count on it to roast the marshmallows… perfect camping companion! 
Seriously though, the testing looks solid and it’s obvious we won’t be hand holding it for 30 minutes at way over 50ºC on the tube! But of course, handholding it would reduce temps through our body and we can always set the thermal where we want it if 80+ is excessive.
I built up a driver with Narsil and put it in a FandyFire Rook, small single LED version of the SRK. The ramping is the way to go, love it, and of course I do have the manual folded up inside the tail. Forgot about that the first time I was trying to make a change, but probably won’t forget it’s there again. It’s nice to have access to the manual when afield, for sure, but as has been said the ramping is so intuitive that it’ll most assuredly be a favorite. With 150 levels to stop it on, it’s by far the easiest way to control battery run time on a big output light. This is why I prefer ramping on my big lights, with the reversing being immediately accessible and again intuitive, it just seems to be the perfect interface for a light. Like a dimmer switch under your thumb.
Awesome news! What else is left?
I think all that’s left is the package drop video, right?
That was done months ago. But they still need to actually make all the lights too.
I thought that it was necessary with the new springs. Am I wrong?
I think some one mentioned a new drop test featuring the new springs, so i assume that’s a drop of the flashlight on its own.
Would be interesting to see how much of a hit to either end it will take for the momentum of the batteries to maybe do something.
But i dont know it we can actually see this as then all 4 cells need to loose connection for the light to “dark” flash for a split second.
I am still looking forward to fondling my Q8
@theMiller
please put me down for a second one
Thanks!
Will post a video of Thorfire dropping last proto with new springs tonight
We have given the GO, stating that we have expressed our worries for the springs and ledboard enough and based on the fact that Thorfire as professional party says they are good now.
Thorfire has all documentation for in the box.
We do not know exactly when sales start but the first 500 will be made soon, yet of course more are needed probably four runs
So it will take some time.
This leaves us with just two tasks before it is completed:
1 getting the proper info for the PM ready and send them when it is time
2 after sales care for which this topic will be used.
If course some better posts and statements with thanks and recaps will follow further down the road but for now, thanks all for patience, aid, critical thinking, enthusiasm, joy and kind words!
YES!
Great News!
oooh Exciting.
Will you guys be posting new current/luminosity readings or are the old ones still relevant?
Mixed feelings:
- Q8 is a GO! We’ll have lights soon!
- Q8 is a GO! But I have no money! :cry:
Was Thorfire ever able to reproduce the lifting lamination problem on the mcpcb? Did they acknowledge the cause of it?
Was it just low quality construction and now they switched to a new source of boards or a new design?
I can’t remember hearing about these things.
Thanks
What output will be specified in the commercial text? Will you say 5500lm or keep the 4000lm understatement?
I like if a light has a bit more power as specified. And Toms 6k are only reached with the best batteries.