I much prefer the ramping mode on my SP32 V2.0, because the ramping can be quickly reversed in direction, so no need to go through higher modes to get back to lower modes.
Turbo is directly accessed from off with a double click when in the ramping mode.
I despise having to go through higher modes to get back to lower modes.
My preferred UI is direct access to ML or Low and High or Turbo from off - then it doesn’t matter as much which mode the light is turned off in, if the light has mode memory.
I own Emisar and Fireflies lights and love them both. But I also own Zebralights and would buy another in a heartbeat. Definitely worth the money to me. SC600 MKV HI is worth every penny. Unmatched REAL type III anodization, high quality aluminum stock, super efficient drivers, high QC, great UI, and superb reliability.
I just used my Emisar d4 out in the cold at work for a good 25 minutes at bright enough levels but above the 350mA 7135 mode. Wasn’t really worried about being conservative. Also used a few times through the day. Threw it on max FET for a minute or two when I got home and let the dogs out and the sucker is still at 4 volts.
So no, I really can’t justify buying 70 80 whatever dollar lights anymore unless it’s something crazy like the mf04 I just bought. But in reality for what you get that’s not really an unreasonable price.
I’m sure ZL has awesome thermal regulation and super efficiency, but seriously if a FET+1 D4 for 35 bucks is too inefficient you’re using your EDC for the job of a Q8. 8 hours of 150+ lumens and ability to maintain a bit more and light the whole area up for 35 bucks. That’s chicken dinner. I’d love a ZL and will probably get one some day, But I agree with the OP. I find it easier to deal with Hank and get parts not on the site to fix or change a flashlight.
In an alternate universe, flashlights would have LCD screens - color touch screen for the high end models, monochrome backlit for the cheap ones - and runtime info for current level would always be displayed.
Wouldn’t that raise costs, along with low level power consumption brightness, along with standby?
I mean, it would be really nice for it to be activated on modes that consume over a predefined amount of power, but should be completely deactivated on lower than 50 lumen modes.
Yeah, that’s the nice thing about ZL’s. You don’t need to fix them or change them. I understand. It’s nice having parts available when you’re going to need them.
A non-lit LCD screen uses extremely little energy (there are watches with such screens that run for years on a 2016 cell). Backlit could be temporary, when you click a button for example. Or maybe the screen can be placed over a base which acts as a temporary switch, so when pressure is applied on the screen, the backlit turns on. There are many ways to minimize a screen’s usage, we see them applied in everyday electronics
Yep, that’s why I like my MH20: press’n’hold from off halfway for moonlight, fully for high. Regular click on for last-mode.
Think the ’32 has that, too, no? Gawd, all these UIs, it’s hard to keep ’em straight half the time. The SP10 does that nicely, press’n’hold for moonlight, doubleclick for high.
No, the ’32 only has direct access to the memorized mode and to turbo from off, regardless of which UI mode is being used. I wish it had direct access to ML from off without it being the memorized mode.
I wish it were short press for memorized, short press for off. Something other than short press to change modes(long press?)and short press for off. Yeah , long press from off would be ok to get to ML. I really hate long press for on/off though. If I short press for off by mistake while in high, which is what I use most, it goes into ML and it gets put into my pocket on ML and I don’t know it. That seems like a bad explanation.
It’s probably a safety issue for accidental turn on. It comes on in the lowest mode with a quick click, rather than Turbo, if that’s what was memorized.
I bought a SP10 V2 in 12/2018 and it always starts in L when it’s turned on. The specs on the order page says it has H/M/L but mine has 4 levels plus the double click for turbo. A long press doesn’t do anything with regards to memorizing the level.
Yeah, I’m not too too crazy over the edge of torch stuff anymore. All I want now is a Sofirn C01 (because warm white high CRI on an E01-style minilight is just win), a Sofirn SF13 (I really like the 2AA format), and a Convoy M2 with the new Nichia (a P60-style torch with a high CRI emitter on the cooler side is irresistible). It’s basic with a slight flair of fancy and it works nicely, so it works for a guy not obsessed with extraordinary lumens or candelas.
Right there with you two. Predictability is not always a bad thing, and I like my modes and their runtimes predictable.
