You got quoted because I didn't think i could say it better. It would have come out as a poor copy of your words anyway, so I thought I'd just use yours...
Glad you aren't offended. I know people who would be...
Oops - forgot to say welcome here. Enjoy!
I put it in a holster that came with an Ultrafire C3 - thanks to Vectrex for pointing out that this worked, it probably wouldn't have occurred to me to try it. It is now installed in that holster on a cop's belt. I've found a very scary looking picture of the cop but I'll need to ask him if I can use it first. I went for an AA light that wouldn't take lithium cells as the local cops only issue AAs so that was the best bet for him and a light designed for alkalines is likely to be way more efficient on them than one that will use from 0.8-4.2V though most such drivers drop into direct drive with no regulation until the cell voltage drops below the forward voltage of the LED. Which is usually around 3.2-3.7V
A spot of work with pliers would probably make it suitable for belt use (or break it). Like I said, I was handing it on so didn't want to break it.
Now that is a nice price on a holster......i got mine from DX and in need of some new ones.....
DX actually do more holsters than I thought. Might get some more though I tend not to use them on my belt. I'd have to get a whole lot fatter to get 80 lights on my belt.
http://www.dealextreme.com/search.dx/search.holster#915
QCG is the place to look for them though it is more expensive than DX. If you browse their wholesale site then email them for prices for small quantities they'll sort you out. They have, or at least had the last time I looked, hundreds of holsters. But if DX have them, you'll spend less. Just looked and they still have quite a few - remember the prices on this page are wholesale ones for a minimum order of $200 the last time I looked - they will cost more retail.
Well i do need to get more.....have to wait for the rest of my lights to come in before i put my order in.
This one looks like it might take P60 lights
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29355
Pity it is camouflage patterned but 5 minutes with a Sharpie marker will fix that.
Just ordered a few DX holsters to see what fits. Details in a month or two once they arrive.
I was checking that one out......dont like the color....i wonder if oven cleaner will take that stuff off.
Just cover it up with a black Sharpie - that will not kill nylon. Or dye it black.
Off the top of my head I can't remember whether sodium hydroxide (lye) will hydrolyse nylon or not but I'd not be keen to try it. It would pretty likely kill the polyester thread.
Try bleach first. Less likely to kill the nylon as long as you can live with a white holster. Or try the Sharpie trick - or any other permanent black marker.
I will give it a try if i get that holster.....
Will let you know once it arrives.
Welcome Vectrex! Thanks for joining, enjoy!
Hello, this is my first post. 
I read the great reviews on the P31 posted here and at DX so I bought one. Sadly, mine is DOA.
It looks like the bezel might be threaded to the head but its hard to tell for sure. Two large strap wrenches wouldn’t break it apart so maybe its not a two piece head/bezel after all. The pill appears to be threaded into the head tube but I couldn’t get it to turn with a pair of needle nosed pliers while pushing on the solder joints. Maybe its glued, or possibly not threaded in at all. Hard to tell. Can I drill two small holes near the edges of the board to try and exert more turning force with the pliers? I hate to RMA it and wait a month for a replacement but I cant get the damn thing apart to fix it. Its not the clicky/tail and it flickers when I tap it sharply. During one occasion, it stayed on for about a minute so I had a brief moment to pay with it. LOL! I must say, I do like this light.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
On another note, thanks for creating such a nice forum where people can freely discuss this fun hobby.
Hi there FlashPilot, thanks for joining, welcome!
I'm not very good at repairing stuff, but I have found with DX flashlights that it often makes a world of difference to just tighten up the light module into the head and snug up the switch module in the tail. In addition, try swabbing down all the surfaces you can get to with a cotton swab or toilet paper, including all the threads. Hope it might work for you!
Nice to have you here.
I don't have it any more but at a guess you'd have to unscrew the pill from the inside. The pliers trick is what I usually do - a set of circlip pliers is good for this as you'll bend them usually before you destroy stuff. I'd not drill it till I'd checked with a bit of wire that the problem isn't at the switch end. More often than not it is there.
There's some articles on troubleshooting here which may help.
http://budgetlightforum.cz.cc/node/250
I know I need to get on with writing more of it but I have a lot of excuses which I won't bore you with just now.
Looking at my pic of the head there appears to be some rubbery stuff visible below the left hand solder blob at about 7 o'clock.
It looks to me like it could be glue which will make it a pig to shift.
I'd get some needle nose tweezers (DX has lots of them for not much) and try to pick out that rubbery looking stuff.
Next step after that is to put it in a sealed plastic bag and boil it in water for 10 minutes to see if that'll soften the glue as they tend to use hot glue that'll melt.
If that doesn't work put it inside another plastic bag and freeze it overnight then try to shift it.
At least, that's what I usually try.
Don,
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I have tweezers and picks but mine doesn't appear to have any rubbery stuff hanging out that I could find. My precision needle nosed pliers are stainless steel and take a lot of abuse. I again applied all the turning force I could possible muster and it still wouldn't turn. I'll try the the boiling and freezing methods to see if that helps.
I assume I need to try turning it while the head is still hot/cold.
Thanks again.
It is best to but try to avoid burning your hands. Try freezing first as some of the plastic materials they make some reflectors out of can soften at boiling temperatures - I have a really nastily made MTE light that I ruined the reflector by boiling it. I'd hope it had a metal reflector but I don't know as I didn't try to take it apart.
It is best to try it while hot/cold but avoid burning yourself. I add this because I didn't think it through and have burned myself this way.
If your looking for high brightness then i might be best to get a board that does nimh and lithium 14500's.