Sounds like PWM. I don’t believe I’ve ever heard my CL25R make a whining noise and I’m pretty sure it doesn’t use PWM.
As with a lot of flashlights, you can disable CL06 by unscrewing the battery cap slightly, this eliminates any parasitic drain and any chance accidental activation.
My Baby`s
Notice on the lantern at the far right, the led`s look yellow, they actually look red to the naked eye.
Modes below, from left to right, HIGH, MEDIUM, LOW, RED, red flashing not shown.
EDIT: I am capacity testing the 4 18650 2000mah cells to see what the real capacity is, 1 cell is 10g lighter than the other 3.
1: 1885mah
2: 1791mah
3: 1848mah
4: 1150mah
John.
That’s a cool wall plate John! I have to use a wall plug adapter to get direct USB outlets.
does anyone have runtimes for the different modes? i see 3 hrs on high, wonder what its on medium and low?
The highest white light drains 0.78A High, 250mA Med, 66mA Low, 137mA Red and 50mA Red beacon.
Do the math for 3000mA battery
Of course with low battery the brightness drops and runtime gets longer
not sure i know how to calculate it…
if i have a 3000mah battery and it draws 250mah/hr, does that mean i can run it 12 hrs?
can a battery be run down to 0 mah left in it?
In theory, but not always in practice.
Cell manufacturers nowadays determine their capacity figures by discharging the cell to 2.5V, but many flashlights and lanterns need 2.8V or even 3V to produce worthwhile amounts of light. This means that not all of the rated capacity is usable.
That’s part of the reason that our most advanced reviewers create and publish runtime charts showing output over time. These are the very best way to find out what a light will do in real life.
If you can’t find a runtime chart for the light you’re interested in, sometimes you can find a discharge graph for the cell you use or a similar cell. A discharge graph for the expected current can at least tell you how long you’ll get before the light shuts down.
At rock bottom, if you can’t find any applicable charts, you can derate the cell by (for example) 20%. On that basis, a cell rated at 3000mAh might only produce 2400mAh before the voltage drops too far to run the light. If you know your light needs 250mA to run, you can divide that in and say that your light will probably run for about 9 or 10 hours.
A word to the wise: if your use of a light is safety critical, always test the runtime under safe conditions before you rely on it. In other words, put a fully charged cell in and run the light until it shuts down. That way, you know exactly what it can do.
You can buy the dual USB receptacle online for about $12 in the US and around $9 from China. Use the search term Dual USB wall socket US. I have two of them on the way from China ($17.12 a pair) after getting tired of using the plug in converters. Not economical though if you have to hire an electrician to install them. Remember to specify US or you might end up buying the EU standard which is 68mm X 68mm and will not fit a single box here in the US.
HOW TO DISASSEMBLE
I took one of the no name clones apart to see what is in it. There is no way in twisting (will break cables) or pulling it. I found no other way than to destroy it and the autopsy revealed its secret. You need to remove the black decal that stealthily covers the entire bottom around the main button. It covers the four screws that hold the lantern together.
The lantern uses six 46.5*8 mm alu LED strips with four 3526 LEDs and a resistor each. Cables between the strips. The strips are gued to the main alu tube with mirror tape so they should be easy to replace if you want a different tint.
I like the size and design of the lantern but for my purposes it is too bright.
my first post, thanks to TBone for help with disassemble guide,
here is disassembled this one clone
photos link