Review: On The Road X6M (Includes mod too)

in the pic of it hanging in a tree logo side facing camera is that a big void in the anodizing between the fins?
as for the mod to the r016 i would do it.thats the current sense.
mosfet rdson gate at 4.x volts is around 8mohms.datasheet so it will take it no problem.looks like its a good light to push.so get out the tools and direct to copper noctigon and get to work!


No, just some dirt. The light had been on the ground and several places at that point.

Thanks for the info. :)

Im itching to mod several of the stock lights.. Hopefully I can do the stock beamshots tonight. Im also thinking about testing if it lives up to its IPX8 rating, but without the driver inside it..

-Review done!

-Added beamshots

-Added some measurements and testing

-Added ratings

-Added conclusion

-Modded in post 1


Feel free to comment on my review. Its my first "in depth review".

I hope you found it useful.

Can’t remeber the last time I enjoyed a review as much as yours!

In particular, I liked the practical aspects of making judgments based on the light and its price point and also the comparisons to other lights.

You, RacR86, are a natural. I look forward to more of your great work with budget lights!

I haven't revisited this thread since you first started drafting it. Wow! First class stuff. Probably the best review I have ever read.

Thank you for the nice comments guys! :)

btw, WB will have a sick sale on the X6M (with T6 CW emitter). I might pick up another one. Ordered! :)

Wow - great review! For under $40 right now at WB, this light looks like a bargain. WOuld be nice to see lumens.throw measurements on the mods though - just curious... Thanx!!

Thanks for the review. I like the body design of this light but I think the 26650 tube will be too big for me.

Ive seen larger objects in your hands before Chloe. Im sure you could handle it.. ^^

Im talking about that massive Kershaw knife of course!

(Filthy minds!)

[quote=Tom E]

Wow - great review! For under $40 right now at WB, this light looks like a bargain. WOuld be nice to see lumens.throw measurements on the mods though - just curious... Thanx!!

[/quote]

Thanks for the comment.

Yupp, In the world of 26650 lights, I would consider it a bargain when its below 40$. If not, extremely good value.

Here are some numbers for you Tom E (including those from the review).

Taken at about 30 sec.

Stock Convoy L4 with XM-L2 U2 1A for reference (3A on copper mcpcb with insulation layer)

959 lumen (otf, calculated from ceiling bounce)

34800 lux (meter reading)

41500 lux (Corrected to be fairly similar to Tom E numbers)


Stock X6M with XM-L2 T6 3C (2,9A on aluminium mcpcb):

825 lumen (otf, calculated from ceiling bounce)

40400 lux (meter reading)

48177 lux (Corrected to be fairly similar to Tom E numbers)

Conservatively modified X6M with XM-L2 T6 3C (4,25A on Noctigon) (as seen in post 1)

1207 lumen (otf, calculated from ceiling bounce)

59600 lux (meter reading)

71073 lux (Corrected to be fairly similar to Tom E numbers)


Feel free to compare my L4 numbers with your numbers in this post. They might have been used as reference numbers. I measured slightly higher amp reading on my L4 though.

Either way, my numbers are comparable with each other , and probably not too far off from yours.

yikes - wonder why our throw measurements are so different. Mine have compared pretty well with rdrfronty in the past, even with identical lights I've shipped to him. I've been doing the measurements at 5m and hunt for the best # - think that's what they say to do. Actually when rdrfronty tests them at 15m, he's usually higher than my kcd's.

Thanks for a great review , RaceR86 .

Seems like a winner .

Great review!! This really seems like the 26650 alternative to the Convoy L4. Nice flashlight!

Who knows Tom, as I mentioned to you in PM. I have now started a thread.

Share you Convoy L4 lux numbers (Comparing lux meters)


Thanks for the comments guys!

Hi,

I have one of these coming from Wallbuys, one of these days :(, and was wondering if, for the resistor mod, anyone has tried just jumpering across the resistor in the pic in post #1 instead of piggybacking an SMD resistor (which I don’t have)?

And if so, what kind of tailcap current would that give?

Thanks,
Jim

In lights like these, peak tailcap current mostly depends on the battery and its ability to limit voltage sag. If you are using something like a KP 4500mAh, Soshine, King kong.. You will only see around 4,5A peak (probably a bit higher with KK), and it will be sinking. Unless you are using any high discharge batteries that hold current very well, its better and safer to just resistor mod for something in the 4A range.

The issue with bridging is that you could mess up low, or how the driver works. Its hard to predict what happens. In many single emitter lights, bridging works fine. On others it don't, and you could just go back to resistors. Chances of ruining the driver are fairly small in a single cell light, but it could happen. I have done it once. My general advise, is that if you don't want to gamble, or have a replacement driver, don't do it.

Also, in general (not on this light it seems) Resistor modding also increases low. Another reason why it can be smart to not bridge or increase the current beyond the battery capability.

Bridging resistor on a buck driver will often lead to too much voltage to the emitter, and fried emitter.

With the correct cell, you might see up towards or close to 6A peak current if its bridged and working properly with little resistance.

Resistors are cheap. 100pcs R100 are less than 2$ from FT. As an example you could stack three of those to get R033 combined. Or four for R025 combined. Those resistor, along with a few others come in handy for several resistor mods.

My R030 was salvaged from another driver.. But you can easily buy such resistors from ebay or other places.

I think that I have some of these somewhere:

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1234403

and some of these:

https://www.fasttech.com/p/1234410

Would either of those work for this mod?

Jim

Yes. The R120 (0.12R) would work fine. But you would need to stack four of them in order to get them down to 0.30R (same value as I used)

Even more resistors if you want to try and go further.

Hmm. I’ll see if I can salvage a 0.30R one then… would not look forward to trying to stack 4 of those little guys :)…

Thanks,
Jim

Its probably easier than you think..

Great review and pictures! Looks nice, but can’t afford anything after the IS killer specials!