Oops, I just saw that number in your earlier post... Will search for th bigger one..
So the 1/4 or 1/8 watts don't matter?
If you can find one that's rated for higher wattage and it's similar price, sure, go for it, you may do something later that needs the higher rating. But if it's $0.03 each vs. $1.20 each... don't bother. Same for the tolerance %, if the better parts are close to the same price it only makes sense to get the better ones, even if it's not strictly necessary.
I find myself wanting a light like this, but the price is hefty and the UI isn’t really desirable.
We could use some beamshots in practical settings.
Don't you think that wall was in a practical setting?
;)
I don't know what I can do, maybe go to the little playground near my house?
No woods here.
Wow, ridiculous shipping cost at mouser!!! $20 for a $2 order.
Same for digikey, $20
That was very good, if a bit overexposed. Just meant to see it in more areas where objects like cars and trees and houses are to compare said objects to each other. I bet that warmer tint, combined with the power, really brings in some eye ease compared to the cool whites.
I understand. Hopefully I will be able to do that soon.
I use the same setting with all my beam shots... maybe I should use a different setting with lights above 1000 lumens.
Thank you for the review, nice looking flashlight!, seems easy to access the internals for modding.
Nice review.
Your math is correct.
If you want to I set it in a calculator it looks like this:
0.18÷(1÷(1÷0.24+1÷0.24+1÷0.24+1÷0.24))
I always do this and play around with adding some values and changing some to estimate what the results should be.
I have all my small resistors from fasttech, they sell them cheap in 100 packs I have R100,R200 and R500 all are very good and nice to have.
Normally it’s no problem to solder smaller or bigger types on top of the others, just a bit angled and a bigger solderblob.
0805 from fastech
1206 R100 from fastech
R100 is too big a jump in one go unless some of the original R240s are removed, which there's no point in otherwise.
just added 2 of the R500 on top of the other ones, and now get 4.35A to the emitter... (resistors from Fasttech)
with quite a bit of frustration...
According to the Calculator, it was supposed to get 4.71A but I`m quite happy with it.
I also noticed that the LED board is not DTP, so I took away quite a bit of the ground, and filled it with solder...
The board changed a bit of color... but hopefully when everything is back again, you wont be able to see it.
All those mods were kind of futile..
It got 1.3Amp more to the emitter,but ceiling bounce only increased by another 20lux (auto 2000 setting)
Sounds a little strange about the ceiling bounce. I just saw this thread now and I like it. Thank you for the review ChibiM. And some good info on modding it.
Can you visually see any difference? Maybe try taking pictures of that wall again with the same settings? 1,3 amps should make a reasonable power up for this light.
Don't know exactly, should probably test again...
I tested it again..
Before the mod the ceiling bounce started at 290lux, and dropped to 281 lux aafter 30seconds
after the mod, the ceiling bounce starts at 380lux, and drops very quickly to below 300 lux...
(very quickly means 10-20 seconds)
I just measured the batteries, and they were at 3.76 volts.. hmmm maybe that could be the reason..
I will continue testing, and maybe buy a new MTG board from banggood with DTP.. hopefully that will help something as well.
The original one wasnt DTP, s now I have cut away under the center parts until I got copper, and filled it with solder underneath.. which should be better than original, but I`m not sure if I did it well enough :(
Try with the same batteries at same voltage and measure emitter current over the 1st minute. Recharge cells and do the same. That will give you a better picture of how the driver (output) works. Some drivers are not that mod friendly. May or may not be the case.
A proper copper board is always beneficial (a must IMO) when overdriving emitters.
I think that the “R” ones are sub-ohm (i.e., less than 1 ohm).
R050 = 0.05 Ω
R100 = 0.1 Ω
R200 = 0.2 Ω
Thanks!
i just tried to measure.. but I think I have a short somewhere.
The led turns on even without the Positive wire attached (although only in very very low output)
I saw a cut in the cable, so I have to open it up again... and put a new wire in.
When I try to measure Voltage, (connected the Postive of DMM to Postive wire near led, unsoldered from contacting. And the COM? black DMM to the positive on the Star) it just shows 7.xV, but it doesnt change modes.
I need to learn how to measure Volts while being on.... please help me
yes, the ones I used now are 0.5 ohm. I bought them from Fasttech a month ago or so.
The ones I had earlier were all too big.
Oh.. stupid me... RaceR, you said Current.. I thought you said Volts...
edit: I need to go now... hopefully will do more tests soon, after I replace the wire that has a cut in it.
I did some tests a few days ago..
replaced the wires.. changed the MCPCB to the Maxtoch DTP.. but no difference..
again it dropped... but the actual Amps don`t really lower that much.. maybe the voltage has something to do with it? or is that impossible?
anyway, Im thinking about taking those resistors back off again..
with all this work, the MTG2 LED doesnt look so nice anymore.. the dome is still okay, but the 4 little yellow corners are damaged.. doesnt seem to affect the output though.