My Xtar WK41 just arrived yesterday.
The anodizing and build quality felt excellent. Anodizing is perfect. the knurling is very well done and provides a good grip, and the switch is small and recessed enough that I doubt it would accidentally turn-on in the pocket. The beam pattern is excellent for short range work.
The head of the light disassembled easily. There was no threadlocker. In unscrewed the bezel and the lens and reflector popped out. I removed the isolator disk revealing a standard 16 mm star, nicely lubed with thermal grease on the back.
The driver and physical reverse polarity protection insert are held in with 2 small screws at the back of the head. Unscrew those and the driver came right out. As expected, there were 2 pieces: one piece being the driver (looked to be around 19mm or so), plus a small rectangular piece holding the switch. The switch portion fitted into a slot in the head and was kept in place by the driver board.
The light isn’t perfect though. The interface left a bit to be desired. Click to turn on, then click repeatedly to advance through the modes. There’s a shortcut to strobe, but no shortcut to min or max. The emitter is also a bit dated, being an XML and not an XML2, and it’s cool instead of neutral. Turning off the light feels awkward as you have to hold down the button for 2 seconds. If you’re at high and click once, it will go to low power, but won’t turn off. This is tricky, given that on most other lights 1 click turns the light off. With the WK41 you might click once and think it’s off, not realizing it has actually just cycled to low.
Also, output was less than I’m used to. On Li-ion, this light only produces 300 lumens on turbo. I’m used to pocket rights like the SC52, RRT-01 and EYE10 that all easily produce 500 lumens or more.
Three and a half hours of modding later:
- I replaced the star and LED with a 16mm copper Noctigon with an XML2 T6 5,000k neutral.
- I replaced the driver with a 2.8 amp Nanjg 105c with a DrJones driver. No need to try to solder the negative contact to the body of the light here. Instead I bent a piece of tin around the edge of the driver and soldered it on. Negative contact is made when the top of the body tube hits this tin ring.
- I built a new switch base and replaced the switch with a 2.5mm radioshack momentary switch.
- The new driver stuck out more than the old driver. To allow the light to fully close, I sawed off half the threads on the head. The light now cinches fully closed with 1 full turn. Definitely not going to be as strong as the default light.
- Removed the driver spring and soldered a small copper disk on the positive contact.
The result. running on a Kinoko IMR 750 Mah 14500: Much, much, MUCH brighter than before. It’s noticeably brighter than my modded Jetbeam RRT-01 (running on an EYE10 driver, Kinoko IMR 18350, and an XML2 T6 neutral on copper).
My modded Xtar WK41 now has a beautiful neutral tint. The new driver has shortcuts to minimum, 10% and max, and has 2-way ramping. The outside of the light looks and feels the same as the original.
I’m pretty pleased with how this mod came out, and how fast it was to assemble. The entire mod took less than 4 hours, which is pretty good for me. This light was just a joy to work on.